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Well in the wiring diagram it shows one wire up to a 16 pin connector behind the instrument panel. In the schematics and diagrams section it does appear that there are more wires that come off the door switch. In the key in and headlight switch wiring diagram I'm sure it shows one wire coming off the door switch also. I'm betting they are just showing the wiring as related to the circuit you are looking at. In the schematics diagram they put the door switch off on the rt side of the page when there was plenty of room right where it should have been. There are alot of wires in the diagram that just end with no description of what or where they go to. Leaves alot to the imagination.
It does look like the is a single wire that is running up through the door post and then a bundle that runs across under the windshield and that is where that 16 kind connector is.
Took the kick panel out to do new pins in the door hinge and there are 2 wires that come out of the door switch. They are then wrapped up and go into a larger loom. I think the next time I have to pul the instruments I will look for that 16 pin connector and see what I can find there. Right now there is other stuff more pressing.
OMG, you just helped me find my gremlin! At least one of them! After spending weeks learning the wiring diagrams on the russian site and my Haynes manual, I found a few small potential issues, and a lot of "previous owner" puzzles, but nothing blatant. I've been driving her for 4 years with a lot of the electronics not working, and I supposed that wasn't a problem as long as she ran.
Recently I got a CEL and a 34/35 code and charging issues became evident, so I became determined to get everything dialed in and working. Read this post so I went out to check all the relays, and that time delay relay was boiling hot!
I still have other gremlins to find, but still - hallelujah!
I was having a parasitic draw too I got mine down to 0.13A Door Closed light switch in the middle position.
2003 Dodge Ram Van Regency Conversion 5.2L
What is the time delay relay which got rid of your draw and how much power was it draining?
For me I have some issues with interior lighting and the courtesy light relay was getting warm after the door was open for awhile.
Also for the Light Switch Clicked all the way left turn on lights even if doors closed, Middle position doors shut light go off, right click interior light off regardless of door position.
However for me clicked all the way to the right gave me +0.1A more draw than in the middle position.
Here is a few diagrams if you can point out the relay you mentioned.
I think my issue may deal with the light switch as fiddling with it lowered the draw but it seems like a temp fix.
I circled the Relay which was warm for me with the door open amp draw, no key, 1.415 All dome lights on.
Removing this relay got it down to .945
Removing the Fuse 1 ( relay back in) .128
After messing with the light switch, just spinning it around and pulling it back and forth for a bit.
Door closed, lights all off Drawing 0.131A (Hood Light disabled)
Not sure if this the best that im going to get but im trying to get this draw down lower, any ideas would be great
It has been a while since dealing with this and I still do have a draw that pops up periodically. I believe it to be the ignition switch again.
Yours being a conversion van makes thing different as I don't recognize those boxes. My time delay relay was up behind the glove box and there isn't one in place now, and I still have the occasional draw.
