Stalls while driving. Restarts after PCM reconnected.
) There is a 1-wire CTS for the gauge, and a 2-wire CTS for the PCM. Both are installed in the intake manifold next to the t-stat housing.FWIW, twice I had a similar temperature stalling issue many years back. The first time it turned out to be an issue with the ignition coil, the second time was due to a failing crank sensor.
Does your scanner view live data? If so, watching the live data as the temperature approaches the engine stall point, might yield additional clues.
Actually, that is not correct (sorry boss.
) There is a 1-wire CTS for the gauge, and a 2-wire CTS for the PCM. Both are installed in the intake manifold next to the t-stat housing.
FWIW, twice I had a similar temperature stalling issue many years back. The first time it turned out to be an issue with the ignition coil, the second time was due to a failing crank sensor.
) There is a 1-wire CTS for the gauge, and a 2-wire CTS for the PCM. Both are installed in the intake manifold next to the t-stat housing.FWIW, twice I had a similar temperature stalling issue many years back. The first time it turned out to be an issue with the ignition coil, the second time was due to a failing crank sensor.
As far as separate temp sensors to feed the dash gauge and PCM, this is news to me. I've found the 2-wire unit on the intake manifold, but don't see anything else like it around there. Do they have different names? Chrysler service manual only references the 2-wire one I'm looking at.
FWIW, the dash temp gauge matches the PCM temp as read through my scanner.
Beats me, I stopped trying to figure out the thought process of automotive engineers years ago. Maybe it is a backup/failsafe design in the event the other 2-wire one fails.
Then when it stalls, you'll quickly have to do basic diagnostics, like is it getting spark? Also keep a can of starting fluid handy, just to see if you can get the engine to fire up with it. Also, is this issue affected by how much fuel is in the tank? Such as, it's more prone to stalling when there is less than 1/2 a tank?
Then when it stalls, you'll quickly have to do basic diagnostics, like is it getting spark? Also keep a can of starting fluid handy, just to see if you can get the engine to fire up with it. Also, is this issue affected by how much fuel is in the tank? Such as, it's more prone to stalling when there is less than 1/2 a tank?
As for starter fluid, no need. It starts back up very easily the second you turn the key after a stall. It just doesn't stay running for more than another minute or two. So seems like it's getting spark, fuel and air.








