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5.9 Magnum PCM getting hot? ASD? Bad connector?

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Old May 17, 2024 | 08:16 PM
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Default 5.9 Magnum PCM getting hot? ASD? Bad connector?

Coughs and sputters and gets progressively worse as I go. Usually after a good run. Have to wait for an hour or two until it calms down or cools off or... something.
replaced the fuel pump 3 months ago, but when i bought it last year, seller said it was a 318, did a vin check recently and its the 5.9 360 magnum. So i bought a 318 fuel pump for the 32 gallon tank. Its a 35 gallon tank. Forums say theyre interchangeable, but it makes sense to me theyre not. Possibly the pump motor getting hot overworking for the extra displacement?
had a couple frayed wires to the crank sensor, spliced in some new 18g and it seemed to be better. That would indicate the ASD circuits getting shut down due tk a short to either the other wires or the block. If its the other wires, it could freak the computer out im assuming.
asd relay is fine. Full tank of gas. I cant get the computer to give me odometer codes and the odb reader says link error. Seems like this only happens after it runs for a bit or is warm outside.
temp seems to be the problem and computer seems to be the effected part.
does the fact i got a 318 32 gallon pump have anything to do with it? Lines and wiring seems good when i replced it and ive checked several times since.
ASD seems to get tripped on somethjng - but its not the crank sensor anymore, fixed that. But it worked great for a few days after. Maybe bad pcm after getting fried by the frayed wires?
Currently at a gas station with two youngins and a hot german shepherd waiting for it to "cool off" or whatever im waiting for.
any expertise and advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks all.

update: let it sit for 45 minutes and it started right up strong as ever, made it the 10 miles home but barely... feathered the throttle the last mile and half, gave it enough gas to get over the hill and roll the rest of the way. Computers bavk on and says "Pdone" so no codes. THEN WTF IS IT?
 

Last edited by nvnn; May 17, 2024 at 08:39 PM.
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Old May 17, 2024 | 08:58 PM
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Mine was doing something similar and it ended up being grounded wires on the cam position sensor. They were worn through on the rear most manifold bolt where the loom makes the bend down alongside the transmission. Can't explain why getting warm would ground it out and then it cooled down it would start and run.
 
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Old May 17, 2024 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffersonracing
Mine was doing something similar and it ended up being grounded wires on the cam position sensor. They were worn through on the rear most manifold bolt where the loom makes the bend down alongside the transmission. Can't explain why getting warm would ground it out and then it cooled down it would start and run.
Same thing happened, but I just replaced those wires. It worked great for a couple days. Checked em again today and it looks good. I dunno. I can try rewiring it again
also - when this happened, it gave me a cam sensor code. I got no codes.
 

Last edited by nvnn; May 17, 2024 at 10:58 PM.
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Old May 17, 2024 | 11:08 PM
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You might need to check the other wires. If it's one of the 5 volt reference wires to any of the sensors it can do this.
 
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Old May 18, 2024 | 05:03 PM
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Also - when its happening it feels like its bogging down when i hit the gas, like too much gas really, which would make me think its ignition, but then the psi on the rail is non existent. I let off the gas and barely touch it and its smooth again. Like its getting vapor locked almost, even though i know that doesnt happen anymore on EFI motors doing 50psi. Also - if I dont oull over and let it cool off, and its really bad, where it wants to completely cut out when I still driving it, it starts misfiring- sounds like popcorn in the microwave - so that would also indicate ignition or timing, correct?
 
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Old May 19, 2024 | 07:31 AM
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If you have a timing light you can put it on the coil wire and see if it's an ignition issue. Check the coil with a vom and see if it's within spec. Take it to somebody that has a high end scanner that can read crank and cam sensor outputs. With this info you should be able to locate the problem.
 
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