1997 b2500 fuel pump
My fuel hasn’t been cutting off entirely but while I’m accelerating I’ll lose power and have to float off of the gas pedal and on and it’ll kick back in. Before I drop this tank and put in a fuel pump, I’ve got a good assumption it’s the fuel pump right? And if so, which one should I get. I checked rock auto and there’s a few on there and I was looking at the Delphi one but I don’t need anything fancy. This thing might run just a couple more years before it rusts out the frame or I just can’t afford to keep replacing everything.
It’s got a new water pump, alternator, pulley, serpentine belt, torque converter clutch solenoid, and up to date in fluids with 123,000 miles but beaten on the frame from the North East winters.
It’s got a new water pump, alternator, pulley, serpentine belt, torque converter clutch solenoid, and up to date in fluids with 123,000 miles but beaten on the frame from the North East winters.
Delphi pump is a good choice. Stay away from AirTex..... keep in mind, you get what you pay for. 
You probably have the plastic fuel rail, that didn't have the pressure test port on it..... Otherwise, I would suggest testing pressure while its acting up, as opposed to just assuming it's the pump. Might be TPS as well....

You probably have the plastic fuel rail, that didn't have the pressure test port on it..... Otherwise, I would suggest testing pressure while its acting up, as opposed to just assuming it's the pump. Might be TPS as well....
Mine acted similarly and did infact turn out to be the fuel pump. The filter at the bottom of the pump was clogged and would collapse upon itself when the flow rate was too high. Be sure of your tank size before purchasing. I think the options are 32 gal, 35 gal, and (I think) a 36 gallon in certain year models.
Delphi pump is a good choice. Stay away from AirTex..... keep in mind, you get what you pay for. 
You probably have the plastic fuel rail, that didn't have the pressure test port on it..... Otherwise, I would suggest testing pressure while its acting up, as opposed to just assuming it's the pump. Might be TPS as well....

You probably have the plastic fuel rail, that didn't have the pressure test port on it..... Otherwise, I would suggest testing pressure while its acting up, as opposed to just assuming it's the pump. Might be TPS as well....
Mine acted similarly and did infact turn out to be the fuel pump. The filter at the bottom of the pump was clogged and would collapse upon itself when the flow rate was too high. Be sure of your tank size before purchasing. I think the options are 32 gal, 35 gal, and (I think) a 36 gallon in certain year models.
Another option is to pick up some of the quick disconnects from your local parts store, and put something between the fuel line, and fuel rail, that has the test port. (likely cheaper and easier.
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did you drive it until the fuel was practically empty or did you have to drop the tank with a bunch of gas in it? I’ve got the 3.9l engine so I’m gonna assume it’s the 32 but I’ll check on my paperwork and see if it’s described. Someone gave me a site to enter vin number and it gave all the original manufacture specs of the vehicle which was super useful when I was needing to change out my torque converter clutch solenoid last fall.
That way, when I dropped the tank, there was less than a gallon of gas in it.
I drove it until it was nearly empty and then I pulled the Schrader valve out of the test port and jumpered the fuel pump relay which allowed me to connect a hose to the test port and drain the remaining fuel into fuel cans.
That way, when I dropped the tank, there was less than a gallon of gas in it.
That way, when I dropped the tank, there was less than a gallon of gas in it.










