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Brakes lock up

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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 01:12 AM
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Default Brakes lock up

2001 DRV 3500 5.9L

Front disc brakes very infrequently all but lock up. I can drive against the heavy resistance enough to get off the road but even that heats up both front wheels quite a bit. If I sit a couple hours until the wheels cool down I’m always good to roll until it happens again- usually several months later.

From master cylinder to spindle dust cap all parts have been replaced (hub assembly with new bearings twice) except for the front brake lines which have no visible dents.

I’ve posted about this before but something happened today which may shed some light. Long story short I ran my battery dead overnight and jump started it this morning. I let it run like 5 minutes having to keep pumping the gas to keep the van from stalling out. I know when I put it in drive it will really try to stall (once I drive a few miles I know the engine will idle smooth). It’s a down hill run to the road and I have to use both the brake and accelerator at the same time- not like crazy but enough to prevent stalling.

In the 25’ to get onto the road this rare partial lock up happened. I still drove a half mile to get my new battery fighting the brakes all the way. And they got fairly hot.

I didn’t want to wait until things cooled down and tried something new. The brakes were still fairly locked up going forward. On a whim I backed up quickly about 5’ and hit the brakes hard. Pulling forward from there the front brakes working correctly.

I have no doubt at this point the friction is the disc pads too tight on the rotors. This has happened a total of 5 times now in 2 years but this time was with all new parts than the other times.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 

Last edited by arty4444; Sep 22, 2025 at 01:16 AM.
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 05:15 AM
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Do you have any abs codes? When it happens have you tried to release the pressure from the caliper by loosening the bleeder valve? If there is pressure there I would replace the brake lines.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 10:52 AM
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Replace those front brake lines. They deteriorate on the inside and prevent the fluid from flowing back to the master and thus keeping the brakes applied. Happened to me on my truck and had some braided stainless lines made.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Moparite
Do you have any abs codes? When it happens have you tried to release the pressure from the caliper by loosening the bleeder valve? If there is pressure there I would replace the brake lines.
I'll check the codes and pressure at the bleeder valves. Starting to look like the brake lines.

​​​​​​​Thanks
 
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffersonracing
Replace those front brake lines. They deteriorate on the inside and prevent the fluid from flowing back to the master and thus keeping the brakes applied. Happened to me on my truck and had some braided stainless lines made.
Bingo!- the brake lines- that has to be the problem and the only part not recently replaced.

I did look for dents in the lines per advice from others here but didn't find any. I understand now that there don't have to be any dents. The lines always appeared tiny to me in diameter.

Could you please briefly describe the braided steel line fix. Did you just measure the length of the existing lines, who made them for you, seems like there must be a junction that splits this from 1 line at the master cylinder to 2 lines.

I know I should replace the whole line but sisce this has always affected both wheels I might start by replacing the single line fro the mc to the junction.

Thank you very much.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 02:40 PM
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There were none available for my application as there won't be for these vans either. I sent the lines to a place in California that made up a set off the originals. It's on my list of things to do to the van.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 03:56 PM
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Instead of spending the big buck on custom bent lines, I just get a roll from the local parts store, and make my own lines, and hand bend them.... It's a LOT cheaper.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Instead of spending the big buck on custom bent lines, I just get a roll from the local parts store, and make my own lines, and hand bend them.... It's a LOT cheaper.
I came back just now to post that very intention even before reading this. 50 years younger and dumber I replaced the brake lines in a 1943 military "deuce and a half" (2 and a half ton) troop transport I converted into a camper. I used copper lines and no special cutting, bending or flaring tools and all worked fine. I will get the special tools this time for a DIY repair on my van now.

Did you hand bend steel tubing? I don't insist on copper (or copper-nickel) but just thought it would be easier to bend and less likely to kink. And thanks for the tip- I already know my brakes are almost finally fixed. Only thing that could be a problem is getting 2 lines to the wheels out of the 1 from the mc.
 

Last edited by arty4444; Sep 22, 2025 at 05:31 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Instead of spending the big buck on custom bent lines, I just get a roll from the local parts store, and make my own lines, and hand bend them.... It's a LOT cheaper.
I was talking replacing the flexible rubber lines with the custom braided stainless steel lines since it appears his have deteriorated.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by arty4444
I came back just now to post that very intention even before reading this. 50 years younger and dumber I replaced the brake lines in a 1943 military "deuce and a half" (2 and a half ton) troop transport I converted into a camper. I used copper lines and no special cutting, bending or flaring tools and all worked fine. I will get the special tools this time for a DIY repair on my van now.

Did you hand bend steel tubing? I don't insist on copper (or copper-nickel) but just thought it would be easier to bend and less likely to kink. And thanks for the tip- I already know my brakes are almost finally fixed. Only thing that could be a problem is getting 2 lines to the wheels out of the 1 from the mc.
I had the little tool for the more interesting bends, but, yeah, most of it I just did by hand, with appropriate size dowels to bend it around.

Originally Posted by jeffersonracing
I was talking replacing the flexible rubber lines with the custom braided stainless steel lines since it appears his have deteriorated.
I had thought he replaced those??? If not, then yeah, time for them to go. Need GOOD quality lines though. My brother bought some he *though* were quality, until one blew out on him......
 
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