Hi, I just bought a '99 Ram Van LWB 1500 Legend Conversion Van yesterday. It's fully optioned out from the factory; power everything, 360 V8, etc. But I have a couple of questions.

How to you get the engine cover off in the inside? I undid two buckles but it felt like something was holding it in the bottom. I couldn't see or feel anything, but for the sake of being careful I quit tugging. Is it just those two buckles on the dog house, or is there more?

What would be a good ballpark weight for this van? Curb weight for a production model is about 4300lbs, and I assume it's about 250lbs extra for the conversion. Does that sound about right?

Last, what is the real world gas mileage I could expect with this rig? I drive very conservatively for the best gas mileage. Do these vans tend to be below the EPA estimates of 13/17, above, or about right?

Anyway I hope I can learn some from you guys!

 

Man, a 360 on 1500 -- that should be pretty "peppy" -- I would think it would get a little better mileage, though. The 360 would be hardly working. My '99 2500 is a little under-powered with a 318 and I get 14 mpg. I hope to improve that after the plenum gasket replacement (that I'm still dreading -- ha!).

Lee

 

Hi James,

There are 4 large self tapping screws at the base that press clamping brackets down on the base of the box. I remove them with a 1/2" socket on my power screwdriver. They'll be under the carpet. Be careful if your use a power driver not to grab the felt underliner or a chunk of felt will wrap around the socket.

The weight should be stated on a compliance plate that the conversion company was required to stick on the drivers door frame.

I bought mine last August. I have same engine. Was getting between 12-14 mpg. I too am conservative. I stuck a hydrogen Generator on and the milage improved. I usually tell people 17 mpg because I have never recorded the figures carefully enough. My wife panics and wants me to fill up when the guage is at 1/4, so I do and usually I have travelled about 425 miles mixed city/hwy on the trip meter and it is usually around 25 gals of gas to fill it up. I did have one unusual experience one trip where I was travelling from Indy to Atlanta. I had travelled 443 highway miles @ 70mph and only used a litttle more than 1/4 tank (all hwy miles). I can't explain this and it has never happened again.

This Hydro gen is experimental and theirfore temperemental, but i does improve milage and also torque. Plus it makes the engine run as smooth as a baby's butt.

When I am towing my boat I have chevvy and ford pickup's with their ski boats try to pull past me up hills and they don't have the grunt. I'm still on 55mph with the cruise set and they are starting to fade. My milage doesn't change much when towing, but I'm towing a boat not a brick.

One of these days if I ever have enough time, I am going to convert the van to hydrogen only fuel source. There is some exciting storage technology that is nearly on our doorstep. So we will see.

Sorry I got a little off topic, but our vans are begging to run on alternate energy sources. There are enough filling stations around the country already to make it work. and plenty of room underneath the van for storage.

 

To improve the mileage on these Ram Vans, change out the junkie Champion spark plugs and use Autolite 3923's. These run a shade cooler and helps with power and mileage.

The B2500, 3/4-ton, 5.2L(318cid), 4spd w/OD, 3.92 rear axle, 35 gallon tank highway gets 14mpg. Towing the camper is down to 11mpg.

The B1500, 1/2-ton, 3.9L (239cid), 3spd NO/OD, 3.55 rear axle, 32 gallon tank highway gets 16mpg. Towing the camper is down to 10mpg.

If you got higher mileage on the van, replacing the O2 sensors will pay for themselves in 4 months for the fuel savings. Usually this is above 60k. Also, you can relocate the IAT for more poswer and better fuel savings too.

 

Alright, good stuff, thanks.

The only issue I have is that the sticker the converter stuck on the door is completely faded to the point where I can't read anything at all. I guess I'll have to take it to a CAT scale or something.

Also, the spark plugs were changed by the original owner at 50k...I don't know what brand, but I hate to get in there and check. Probably when I hit 100k (it has 87.700 right now) I'll yank them out and change them. I may get to the O2 sensors before then, too. But what is this IAT you speak of? I'm new to EFI, so I don't know all this stuff yet...I'd be interested in that mod.

SmartObject, yeah it doesn't do bad for what it is. My last vehicle was a Bronco with some gears in it, and before that a '68 Mustang with a 302, so it's actually not that peppy compared to what I'm used to. Both stepped out from the light with authority, I even got the holeshot in the Bronco vs. a V6 Camaro once. I think some 3.92's are in order soon on the Mystery Machine.

Say, Stev...I just joined RV.net the other day...maybe I'll see you around!

 

How to relocate your IAT Sensor (IAT = Intake Air Temp)

* The IAT Sensor is located on the #2 Intake Runner (3.9/5.2/5.9L) or under the Throttle Body, in the manifold (4.7L) - Big Brass looking sensor with two wires (Grayish connector)
* Remove the IAT sensor from the manifold and plug the hole with a 1/4" NPT Pipe Plug (Home Depot)
* Drill a 1/2" hole in the intake tube and thread the IAT sensor into the hole (use some silicone if you want...not required though) - You may have to extend the wires about 6-12" in some cases (use 16ga. wire)

Info found at V8 Performance for the Dodge 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9L engines. Not only bookmark this page, print it out and save it !!!

http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm




There is a posting of a guy with the 3.9L who placed the IAT in the coolest part of the intake hose right up front. On a simple dyno test the hp increased about 6hp and the engine was peppy when the gas pedal was lightly touched. This is on my to do list once I get the IAC cleaned and the AC leak fixed.

 

Sounds like a good mod, I think that'll be first on my list, thanks!

 

I agree, that does sound like a good mod. Thanks for the tip on the Autolites also Steve.

How do you know what final drive ratio you have?

 

I found out by looking at the factory sticker under the hood that told me the rear axle ratio (in my case and 90% surely in yours as well, a standard 3,55). Final drive can be calculated by multiplying the rear axle ratio by the overdrive ratio, in our cases ,69. Thus:

3,55 x ,69 = 2,45:1 final drive ratio.

 

From what I have gathered, the 5.2L (318cid) and 5.9L (360cid) that have OD should have 3.92 rear gears. In another unnamed Dodge forum there is more detailed information on just the enignes, tranny and rear end types used for the vans and the trucks that share much of the same hardware.

Knowing the power of the 360 magnum enigne at 225hp and 335 lbs. ft. of torque, the 3.55 rear was offered as a option, but recommended not to get. The 360 magnum enigne mostly came with the 3.92 rear that it shared with the 318 magnum. On the B3500 and maxi vans, the 4.10 was the rear using the 360 magnum.