LS,

I had three of those cheap Champion original plugs in my V8 5.2L magnum engine break. The problem was, they borke in the worse way, the entire terminal tip, ceramic insulator AND metal hex socket on the plug broke out. Only the lower part of the three plugs remained with the threads in the head wall. [:@] Do not drive or run the engine with this problem. The PCM computer will get all messed up and throw so many codes.

I had to get the vehicle to a shop. I had them change all the plugs to Autolite 5224's, vaccum out the borken plug pieces in those cylinders, changethe oil and clean all of the codes. Total bill was just under $300. It took the shop two hours alone to change the plugs out. They were in there really good. The Ram Van had 80k on theose plugs.

The Autolite plugs have the black coating on the thread base and seat ring for a purpose. To prevent this problem!

 

Yup, that was exactly what was in there - cheap champions with the washer base. Got all out but one (front driver side). I'll work on that one tomorrow.

I still have some questions:

1. Should I use anti-sieze on the plugs?

2. I want to put Autolite Platinum plugs in - what are your opinions on them?

3. Do I absolutely need those heat shields?
(The two front plugs on the driver side are a b___ to get out because of the shields. There isvery littleroom between the side firewall and the shields. Tough to get a tool in.)

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. It took a lot of spraying and a breaker bar.

Take Care, Sharon

 

Glad to hear that you've made progress.
1. Use the anti-seize.
2. Platinum...Shmatinum, a spark is a spark is a spark.
3. Those are more than just heat shields, they also prevent water from splashing up and cracking your plugs. (Hot plug, cold water=cracking)
Instead of eliminating the troublesome ones, cut an inch or so off. That will make changing the plug easier and still shield the plug.

 

1. Yes, if you plan on using Champion plugs. Not really needed if you use the Autolite's and change or inspect them once a year or two.

2. Platinum plugs are only 1/3 the solution. Like Alloro said, a plug is a plug. In this case, that will be your answer since the platinum plugs for the best performace will need an upgraded set of ignition wires(8~9mm size) and a better engine coil that is rated for the heavier spark (MSD). Otherwise, it's just a waste of money just getting platinum plugs in general.

One thing you can do for the Autolite plugs is the "side gapping" method. This works the best for the 5224 plugs. See the old school performance racing tip here. http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...degapping.html This will improve performance and mpg too since the entire spark is exposed to the fuel. The Autolite 3923's or 3924'swill not work well with this trick since they have a stubby end and are too far away from the proper burn point.

3. Again, like Alloro stated, it's a must! Taking them off will make greater problem that you don't want to deal with. HOWEVER, I've had no problem getting the plugs out with my socket set AND a socket universal mounted to a short stubby extension. Only on two of the plugs, do I need the universal, the others came out fine with the short stubby extension.

On another NOTE ... Please see the TSB on how to properly route the ignition wires from the cap to each plug. This will remove other headaches as well.

 

LOL I live in Southern Arizona, there is no cold water here.I haveowned a lot of trucks and vansin my life and never saw aheat shield until this one. I lived in upstate NY where minus temperatures are common. Never had a cracked plug. But, I'll hack off the two that are a pain (front, driver side).

I am going to change the wires anyway. I can't see going through this without changing everything out. It has 50,000 miles on it, so it is way past time. I don't want to modify a spark plug, I'd rather pay the extra money for everything.

Whenever I change out the wires, I always take off one at a time, and replace them with the exact same routing. I am positive, after what I went through, that everything in this engine is original equipment.

I always change my plugs, wires, cap, etc, every couple of years. It just makes life easier and, to me, it is a cheap solution to a potential major problem. I always change my oil at 3000 miles for the same reason.

This is a vehicle I purchased used, but from here on out, it will be maintained a heck of a lot better than the last owner did. YEOW

Thanks for all of your suggestions and help. Now, back to work on that one last plug..... [:@]

Take Care, Sharon

 

I'm taking the shields off. After reading this entry on DodgeForum:
--> Spark Plug Heat Shields

I totally agree. I can't see how something metal can help with removing heat. I would think all it would do it conduct heat from the cast iron block and make things hotter around the wire. And, honestly, it is a dirt and junk catcher, not dissipator. Sorry, I think they are not "a better idea". If they were truly thermal, had no slots, went up higher, and were easy to take off, they might be worth it.

Take Care, Sharon

 

LS,

That is a good link. I've only had one vehilce that I ripped those plug shields out of, and that was on a GM Astro van. The Astro had less room to get at the plugs than these Ram Vans.

I agree that they are also a good rust and pine needle catcher as well.

If you're going to upgrade the plugs, then upgrade the coil and ignition wires. If you only do the plugs you'll only see a marginal improvement. If you only do the plugs and wires and keep the OEM rated coil, you'll burn out the coil in a short period of time. It's best to replace the ignition system parts with upgraded ones. ALSO, if you go with the better plugs and wires, make sure that you use a copper/brass tipped cap and rotor. The aluminum will cause all sorts of problems in a few months of useand through engine codes galore. I know, I learned the hard way.

 

PS ...

About that TSB I had mentioned ...

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98.htm