I dont kjnow what else to call it. Im getting a steady resistance from the sending unit, but the gague is bouncing more than my spedometer. This condition is after I replaced the 5v regulator. before I replaced the regulator, the gauge read off the top of the scale, even after driveing 100 miles.

Is there anything else it might be if the gauge doesnt fix it? I'm Driving 500 miles next weekend, I'd really like to know when the tank is getting low.

Thanks in advance.

 

Is there a faulty wire connection anywhere? Or a bad contact?

The worst is that the fuel float has gone bad and requires replacement.

Have you done the key on-ff trick to get any ideas too?

 

I know u probably checked this ,but I would look the ground wire over.

 

I haven't yet checked the ground wire, because to do that I'd have to find a place that doesn't have snow on it. One thing, if the ground was loose, wouldn't I get infinity resistance? there has to be some circuit to get a reading. Especially since I'm disconnecting the gauge and checking everything from the A-pillar back to the tank, and using the good ground on my dashboard.

When the gauge is connected, even with the Engine off and ignition in the on position the gauge is moving. If it was loose wouldn't there need to be some sort of vibration to make it occur? I'm just trying to understand.

Stev,
I'm not sure what off on trick you are talking about. If you mean anything from the ODB...I get nothing. In fact the CEL comes on when I first switch to on, but once the van cranks over it goes off. I tried to get a code out of it but I don't seem to be having any luck. This is an 87 so it doesn't have lots of the bells and whistles the newer ones have. I kinda like it for that reason. Maybe I'm not checking it correctly. The off to on step is two clicks, with start being past the second click, I know it wont read back if cranked over. I thought it was three off to on cycles, and then when switched on and left on for the 4th on it would start flashing. Should I only be going to the first click (ign acc) for the test? I get no dash power off of that click. No gauges and the CEL doesn't even come on. There is also the ign acc reached by turning the key backwards. I was reasonably certain I shouldn't use that. I know that disconnecting the negative will dump any error codes, but that hasn't been off in months.

Help would be appreciated, though I'm beginning to get to the point where I my just junk it, even though I love the vans and my friends think Im nuts for that.

Coincidently I found another Manual tranny Van in the yard, if I want that one, I need to go back in the next few weeks if I want to get it. It is in an 86 royal. That is where I picked up the donor instrument cluster.

 

I once had a bad fuel float in a Dodge Caravan that gave me troubles just like your fuel gage is doing. It drove me nuts looking at wires until I searched the web and found out that the fuel float mechanism had the problem.

As for the key on-off trick, on my 1979 Dodge Aspen I had to do the key thing 5 times and quickly count the CEL as it flashed. I had to do this two or three times to verify I had the right blinking senquence of flashes. Yes, I enjoy the newer Ram Vans since the code is displayed easir and the van thus fan has been really simple to work on vs the mechanical guess work. I started fixing cars since 1974. That's when the ending of mechanical started and the electronics was phasing into place.

 

My take on it is the other way around, but then again I used to fix computers for a living. I wanted something that had fewer computers than the then new cars. I can bodge something mechanical back together for a quick fix, As an example the mechanical clutch linkage broke once when I was out driving, so I drilled out the rusty pin that had worn though,(dremel and inverter, though I do have a hand drill) and replaced it with a stainless steel rod that came from a 5.25" floppy drive that I happend to have in the car at the time. I knew the rod was in the drive, so I stripped the drive apart. That rod is still in that linkage to this day. I bent it with two closed end wrenches....that was the only way I could do it. 3/16" stainless rod really resists bending, especially when it is just under 3" long.

The original reason for the van was a rolling shop...it never quite was realized. Now I use it as a platform for my Amateur Radio antennas, the large relitivly flat roof is perfect for reflecting signal off of. I finally decided that too much is anoyingly breaking at one on this thing, so Im going to do a search for another 87 to rebuild, install the manual tranny, and see how long I can make it last. I dont know what I'll get after that, though I really miss driving stick, andI think Ford is the only other company that made a manual van. I'm not sure what else I can do, I love the dodges and the engine is so solid. but I cant think of anything else that would work unless I wanted to try a body transplant of some kind.

 

Some old posts that might be of interest:

fuel gauge sender fix

https://dodgeforum.com/m_675391/tm.htm

sulfur in gasoline poisoning Chrysler style sender resistance strip:
====
Chrysler fuel senders that are inside the fuel tank use a silver alloy on the strip that the float's slider rubs against to vary the electrical resistance that works the gas gauge.

Sulfur in gasoline (or diesel) can foul or 'poison' this Chrysler part much easier than GM or Ford's sender.

You can read about this sulfur killing DCX fuel gauges at these weblinks:

http://web.archive.org/web/200206110...er/3378552.htm

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/bad_fuel.txt

As others have said, you may be stuck having to replace the fuel unit.

On Diesel Truck Resource and Turbo Diesel Register some Ram owners have reported that they have been able to clean and fix the resistor slider - but only after pulling it from the tank.

It is only 50/50 chance
but you might be able to get the fuel gauge working again by using a heavy concentration
of a cleaner like Chevron Techron, Napa's "Kleen" or a few cans of official Mopar Fuel Injection cleaner from the Dodge dealership. Whether to spend $18-36 in a gamble to see if it would avoid buying a new in-tank unit is up to you.

Over on another forum (Moparts) there is a long time poster who goes by Mr P Body who claims he was in charge of testing many fuel injector cleaners in order to choose the official one Mopar uses, which he claims works significantly better.

The newer version of Chevron's cleaner (Techron Concentrated) mentions improving fuel sender operation after sulfur fouling.

 

Well it can cost me $18-36 for the attempt, but it would be better than waiting 4 months until the end of winter followed by the spring rains before I could drop the tank. Frankly if I drop the tank I wont even bother with the sending unit replacement. I'll just install the replacement (36 gal) tank I pulled from my 83 before I scrapped it. I kept the sending unit as well. The only reason I havnt done it before now was Im looking for replacment straps. the 83's straps had to be cut because the nuts were rusted on.. and dealer replacement would be about the half the value of the van, so that is a no go. .

 

HankL hit the problem issue right on. That's what my Dodge Caravan had an issue with too.

You'll need to drop the tank, take out the sending unit and clean it with one of those good cleaners mentioned above in his posting. Just adding the cleaner toa tank full of gas is NOT going to help any. I know, been there tried that too. Usually, the sending unit is in bad shape and needs to be pulled and cleaned.