That's the problem, it isn't going off. And the counter guy is telling me that it will not go off without having it reset because it was a P0505 error.I know it was going out before, but it is not now. I am frustrated with this part.

 

The code with the Gen-2 Ram Vans using the OBD-II system will remain until a scanner tool clears it. I take mine to AutoZone and they clear the codes for F-R-E-E.

AND BTW, my Hayes Repair Manual for the Dodge Ram Van/Wagon, book #30065, mentions to NEVER extend the IAC pintle more than 1/4 of an inch outside of the TB,doing so will damage/ruin the IAC. I have that documented in my posteing of "How To Clean The IAC." https://dodgeforum.com/m_525409/tm.htm

 

You will need to clear the code using an OBD II scanner. There are some pretty cheap ones on the market. Because of federal regulation, Autozone and other part stores are not suppose to clear them, because it is considered tampering. However, I have borrowed the scanner from them to run out to my car to check the codes and "accidentally" cleared them (wink, wink). Usually, if you explain to them that you are making an honest attempt to repair the problem, they can clear it for you. As far as disconnecting the battery, that only works if it is a non-emission related code or a soft code as we used to call them.Many times a soft code won't even illuminate the MIL (check engine light). It has to occur on consecutive trips in order to turn the light on, however there will still be a code in the pcm. Just because the light isn't on, doesn't mean there aren'tany codes in the pcm. I have probably given you a lot of info to try and comprehend and it is sometimes confusing to even the most seasoned technician. Hopefully, you can find someone to clear the pcm codes and this will solve your problem! I'll keep my fingers crossed!!!!-Jeff

 

I know about the extension outside. I didn't have it outside. It is hard to explain, but I totally understood what happened when I removed it and saw that little bit of white showing. I think the thing was defective and not extending and retracting the way it was supposed to. At one point, it must have extended a little too far and that black plastic outer cylinder popped over. Then, it probably tried to retract and that is when it got really screwed up. I did drive it like that, a few miles, but it ran lousy. That is when I pulled out the 'new' IAC and found this. Pathetic.

What's even worse, is the guy at Autozone told me it was fine and to put it back in my van and drive the van there (37) miles to reset the code! I showed him how the black plastic outer cylinder was shifting all over the place and simply said "I don't think so!" Sheesh

 

Just wanted to catch everyone up on this situation. I changed the IAC three times from one from AutoZone. I also changed my gas cap. Then, I drove the vehicle several thousand more miles. It would come on and off. If one when I started, it stayed on. If off, it stayed off.

So, the other day, I finally bit the bullet and bought a mopar part. Now, it is on constantly, never goes out. I am going to try a trick that someone mentioned on the car forum here - put dielectric grease on the connector, just in case the connector is worn. I'll let you know if it fixes the problem.

 

The code can be cleared with the Autostone scan tool they have. I had this done a little time back with my van.

Cleaning the IAC is only half the job, how does the TB look where the IAC and pintle rest?

Does it look like this?


Or does it look like this?



There is a little air slot just below the pintle seating port inside the chamber. If it's plugged, the idle will rev up and down.

The only time I got the P0505 code was when the wire contacts to the IAC somehow got dirty and the TPS was sticking inside. I used CRC QD Electronic cleaner onto the IAC connector contacts and took off the TPS and rotated the TPS from end to end. When the TPS was off, I rotated the butterfly valves back and forth too. Then I put everything back together and had no P0505 again.

There are many reports on the web with the Magnum engines throwing a P0505 dealing with the IAC and not getting the code to go away with a new IAC. So, cleaning the TB IAC chanber/port/lower-slot really helps, and toying with the TPS and TB butterfly valves did the trick for me.

It would be a real pain if a wire went back from the IAC to the PCM or other components. If you have an ohm/volt meter life is easier to trace it.

 

Just wanted to follow up on all of this. I replaced the IAC and cleaned out the body three times. Last time, I paid the big bucks for a Dodge brand. Still got the light.

It comes and goes. But, if I am on the road, driving great distances, it goes away after I stop for my first road break. Then, it does not come on again all day but comes on the next morning.

I have put thousands of miles on the van, since all of this. Driven it across country twice. Interesting situation.

 

Has there been any more discovery about this problem? I'm having the same issues with my 2000 Ram. I've put in a new IAC, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, battery cables. I have done a smoke test to. where they fill the motor up with smoke to find leaks. So far no luck with anything.

Thanks,
Brian

 

Still having the problem, years later. So far, I had put in new wires, plugs, rotor, cap, IAC, TPS, etc.. Just pulled the IAC the other day to see if that was clogged up and it was really very clean for one that had been there for over a year. I am dealing with high idle and low gas mileage. Not bad on the highway, but sucks around town. At least, the car still runs well and has never given me an 'outages'. And, it has been several years!!

Still haven't changed out the O2 sensors, as someone suggested here. I might try that next before changing out the computer.

In my little town, car inspections are not required. But, I may be moving to TX in the next year, which means I will need to resolve this.