MPG
Monrozombi: Let me know what you have as far as Make model, engine size. I'll put together a cost for you. We also carry BOSCH plugs and Air Filters that are cheaper than K&N with equal or better flow, And guaranteed for life.
As far as what amsoil is: Its just damn good oil and filters. Outperforming M1 too. If you look in the "Synthetic Lubricant forum" here. Check out all the tests and other info. WIth AMSOIL you get reduced friction, equaling lower temp, reduced wear, and more performance and life. All this is done by superior lubrication. Our filters have up 100% more capacity, and traps oil better. They also have a check valve to keep the filter full after engine in shut off.
I'm here to help when your ready.
<img border="0" src=smileys/smiley1.gif border="0"> <edited><editID>SyntheticsMan</editID><editDate>37964.8575347222</editDate></edited>
As far as what amsoil is: Its just damn good oil and filters. Outperforming M1 too. If you look in the "Synthetic Lubricant forum" here. Check out all the tests and other info. WIth AMSOIL you get reduced friction, equaling lower temp, reduced wear, and more performance and life. All this is done by superior lubrication. Our filters have up 100% more capacity, and traps oil better. They also have a check valve to keep the filter full after engine in shut off.
I'm here to help when your ready.
<img border="0" src=smileys/smiley1.gif border="0"> <edited><editID>SyntheticsMan</editID><editDate>37964.8575347222</editDate></edited>
NGK and Autolite are about the same though Autolite are a slightly colder plug and may do better on your truck seeing as how its pretty much stock!
Spark plugs are one of the easier things you can do to your truck. The hardest 2 to do are the back 2 on the drivers side because the master cylander is in the way. I like to do those first so they are out of the way!
When you get the plugs dont forget the anti seaze compound (or you will have a heck of a time getting them out the next time) and de-electric grease. they come together for about a buck or so.
between the two main repair guides I prefer Haynes. Bought Chitlens once and went out the next day and got haynes!! LOL
As for the K&N the intake will cost around 250-300! Pricy but will save you about 1 mpg!! that adds up quickly!
If you can part with that much get the drop in filter for about 40 bucks and get a dryer hose from the hardware store. Take the black tube off the intake and clamp the dryer hose (4 or 5 inch hose will work) to the intake and run it to the grill...this will act as a cheap ram air box, and get you better flow.
Spark plugs are one of the easier things you can do to your truck. The hardest 2 to do are the back 2 on the drivers side because the master cylander is in the way. I like to do those first so they are out of the way!
When you get the plugs dont forget the anti seaze compound (or you will have a heck of a time getting them out the next time) and de-electric grease. they come together for about a buck or so.
between the two main repair guides I prefer Haynes. Bought Chitlens once and went out the next day and got haynes!! LOL
As for the K&N the intake will cost around 250-300! Pricy but will save you about 1 mpg!! that adds up quickly!
If you can part with that much get the drop in filter for about 40 bucks and get a dryer hose from the hardware store. Take the black tube off the intake and clamp the dryer hose (4 or 5 inch hose will work) to the intake and run it to the grill...this will act as a cheap ram air box, and get you better flow.
SyntheticsMan: I have a Ram 1996 Laramire SLT Club Cab 4x4 with a 5.2L V8, everything but the exhaust extenders are stock, as far as a i know, i could tell it was all city driven because it has about 77,500 miles on it (300 by me personally for this weekends trip to Pittsburgh and back) and it had i think street tires on it, the guy that traded it in got a new Ram so thats good. </P>
Thanks for all your help, this a great forum i like it here a lot so far.</P>
I just wanna get the most out of my engine because i'm tight on money as it is and i don't wanna be at the pump every day. plus another Q what is better, taking the back roads or the highway? i probably know the answer but yet i'm new and my knowledge is limited, thanks ya'll</P>
Matt</P>
always the highway! the less you stop and go the better!
Syn: not trying to take your business but amsoil wouldnt be the best thing for him right now. I know MANY ram owners that have amsoil in their trucks that dont see near the gains dealers claim! Dont get me wrong, almost all of them are still happy with it...but still they dont see they gains they were"promised"
besides...Moble one is cheaper and easier to get and is VERRY close to amsoil in every aspect, when tested by companies other than Amsoil its self.
Again...Amsoil is a good oil...I am not disputing that...but it is not the answer to every ones performance needs!!
Syn: not trying to take your business but amsoil wouldnt be the best thing for him right now. I know MANY ram owners that have amsoil in their trucks that dont see near the gains dealers claim! Dont get me wrong, almost all of them are still happy with it...but still they dont see they gains they were"promised"
besides...Moble one is cheaper and easier to get and is VERRY close to amsoil in every aspect, when tested by companies other than Amsoil its self.
Again...Amsoil is a good oil...I am not disputing that...but it is not the answer to every ones performance needs!!
yeah right now i'm basically looking for something to start me out on the right path and if the syn oil by mobil is the way to go for me now great, and hopefully i can give the amsoil a try i read some of the posts on that board and it looks good but i'm guessing its really expensive so i'm hoping to see some gains soon so i don't throw away too much at the pump.</P>
another question: Low, mid or High grade gas? i use low right now cuz i'm poor but there is a Giant gas station right down the road and their gas is always cheaper and i can get mid grade for the price of low and that actually got me thinking about if a higher octane gas will just be better for my engine over all.</P>
</P>
almost forgot: what weight oil should i get, i totally forgot about that till now</P><edited><editID>Monrozombi</editID><editDate>37964.9217592593</editDate></edited>
Our oil is about 4.55 a qt with a PC discount. The Oil Filter will run you about 8.80, the air filter is 29.95 (guaranteed for life). This oil is guaranteed for 25k miles or 1 year, you don't have to do it, but its guaranteed for that long. WIth a filter change at 12.5. These filters can go longer because of their capacity. WIth extended drain, you save money on buying oil and filters, and less waste too.
I did see about 1-2 MPG in my hemi . some may be more or less. Every vehicle is different.
Our testing is done by ASTM, not amsoil.
This is just an option.
Kale
AMSOIL DEALER
I did see about 1-2 MPG in my hemi . some may be more or less. Every vehicle is different.
Our testing is done by ASTM, not amsoil.
This is just an option.
Kale
AMSOIL DEALER
Questions about some of the topics discussed...
I've got a pretty much stock 4.7L 2002 1500.
I put Synthetics in it the first time I changed the oil (~25k miles, I
bought it with ~20k with a fresh oil change and drove it home from TX
to VA). Running Mobil1 Synthetic Oil and Modil1 Filter.
Truck runs great. I'm about to do a second change (I just rolled
30k miles) and I'm going to install an ASP Underdrive Pulley and MAC
CAI. I'm interested in eventually getting a Mopar PCM and
Headers...
But my question is, right now I'm running 87 octane, and getting maybe
250 miles to a fill up (~$30, which is about 20-22 gallons).
That's only about 12.5 MPG. When I first put the Synth oil in,
the MPG went up... but I normally barely get 15 on the
highway. BEST I've ever achieved was 17mpg average on a trip at
~75mph with the bed full (was carrying car parts and had a '97 Nissan
240sx hood on top of it all making the bed nice full and flat).
I've got a heavy foot (I like the torque) so that accounts for the gas
mileage, but it still seems a little low. Will I have to change
to 93 with the Mopar PCM? Or can I continue to run 87? I
maintly bought the 4.7L because I could run 87... I had a 2001
Durango R/T for a year (sold it to attempt to buy a house) and it ate a
hole in my wallet getting 12mpg or less on 93 octane... =(
Just curious.
Thanks!
I've got a pretty much stock 4.7L 2002 1500.
I put Synthetics in it the first time I changed the oil (~25k miles, I
bought it with ~20k with a fresh oil change and drove it home from TX
to VA). Running Mobil1 Synthetic Oil and Modil1 Filter.
Truck runs great. I'm about to do a second change (I just rolled
30k miles) and I'm going to install an ASP Underdrive Pulley and MAC
CAI. I'm interested in eventually getting a Mopar PCM and
Headers...
But my question is, right now I'm running 87 octane, and getting maybe
250 miles to a fill up (~$30, which is about 20-22 gallons).
That's only about 12.5 MPG. When I first put the Synth oil in,
the MPG went up... but I normally barely get 15 on the
highway. BEST I've ever achieved was 17mpg average on a trip at
~75mph with the bed full (was carrying car parts and had a '97 Nissan
240sx hood on top of it all making the bed nice full and flat).
I've got a heavy foot (I like the torque) so that accounts for the gas
mileage, but it still seems a little low. Will I have to change
to 93 with the Mopar PCM? Or can I continue to run 87? I
maintly bought the 4.7L because I could run 87... I had a 2001
Durango R/T for a year (sold it to attempt to buy a house) and it ate a
hole in my wallet getting 12mpg or less on 93 octane... =(
Just curious.
Thanks!
If your worried about fuel mileage then the PCM upgrade isn't a good idea. The Mopar, or any other performance computer, will sacrifice fuel mileage for more power. It will use more fuel and more spark advance. Most other mods will yeild MPG gains as well as power gains.


