lol seems like my car dies a little more each day.. but imma try to keep it going.. Anyway,
Problem:
Last couple of days when im driving i hear a sound that sounds like metel on metal touching and rotating... i can make it make the sound if i turn right.. so i took my left front tire off and examed it the pads still look good but behind where u mount the tire (yea i know im dumb i dont know what everything is called) something was obviously broken and there was grease everywhere.. all behind there and in the rim of my tire.... any suggestions on how to fix this? or what the problem even is?

-Jason

 

broken axle boot. replace the axle

 

Damn really how much do u think that will cost?

 

not sure depends on if you do it yourself or have someone else do it. Look at your axle though and see if the rubber boot at the hub is broken. thats your axle boot and you will have to replace the whole drivers axle. I would recommend doing both while your at it. your drivers side and passenger side. Youl be pretty pissed when you fix one and the other one brakes a week or a month later. but im not sure about the cost. Im guessing from 150 to 300 to have a shop do it though.but could be wrong on that.

 

I had them done for under $200 including buying the part.

 

Normally CV joints will click when going around a corner when they go bad (ie. lose all their grease). Along with replacing the axles, I would still check your brake pads. It has been my experience the inner pad will wear more than the outer.

You can get remanufactured axles at OReillys for less than 100 bucks.

 

Where is OReillys? lol i just went to a place they want to charge 240$ for parts and labor... i think imma do it myself since i dont have 240... its just that rubber part at the end broke and is leaking the grease but apparantly its cheaper to replace the whole axel then it is to replace the boot ( or whatever its called) so imma just do it myself... where could i get the part at?

 

O'Reilley's auto is like autozone, Napa, just a chain autoparts store. It is not a hard job, the only "speciality" tool you need in a 32mm socket, but I think an 1 7/8" socket will also work

 

I called up napa they want 66$ for the whole axle, i guess its cheaper to buy a whole new axle then fix something small on the current one.. but imma have some help fixing it imma get the part 2marrow and hopefully turns out good, thanks for the help ill tell u how it goes

(if u wanna add anything i should know feel free thanks)

 

The drivers side is the toughest side. There is a halfshaft bolted to the engine block. Once you get the axle free from the hub, unbolt it from the block, then remove it from the transaxle. A firm tug on the halfshaft should free it from the trans.

The passenger side can be pryed out with a big screw driver, once it is free from the hub.

It is a fairly straightforward job. You'll have to remove the brake calipers and rotors anyway, so you just as well put new shoes on it and get your rotors turned.
There are some threaded holes on the rotors, they can be used to "jack" rotor from the hub, just go a little at a time.
Don't undo the tie rod ends unless you have too, you "should" be able to work the hub from the splines with some creative manuevering.
Be careful when slipping the hubs back on though, you don't want to torque or beat on the CV joint, you can mess it up. They will go back together, you just have to get them in the right position.
One of the bolts/nuts on the strut is "eccentric." There is a guage stamped into the strut and an arrow on the washer, mark the position with a sharpie or something.
By marking the nut and not removing your tie rod ends, your car shouldn't be too much out of alignment when you put it back together.