What To Look Out For When Buying Twin Turbo Stealth
Hello all,
I am new here.... I have been considering purchasing a 93/94 twin turb stealth....
Anyone have some good pointers to share when looking at these cars?
Anything specific about the turbo's? Do they last... What is matienence on these cars like?? Etc....
Anything you could post would be awesome thanks [sm=americanasmiley.gif]
I am new here.... I have been considering purchasing a 93/94 twin turb stealth....
Anyone have some good pointers to share when looking at these cars?
Anything specific about the turbo's? Do they last... What is matienence on these cars like?? Etc....
Anything you could post would be awesome thanks [sm=americanasmiley.gif]
Ask about the transfer case recall, whether or not it has been done. The transfer case can leak out its oil causing lockup. Not good if it happens at highway speeds. If you can, take a couple of screwdrivers to pop off a couple of intercooler lines. If there is excessive oil in the intercooler lines, it's a good indicator that the oil seals on the turbos are bad/going bad and will need some attention. Other than that, check it out like you would any other used car. Make sure the gears shift smoothly. Worn syncros on 2nd and 3rd gear are usually an indicator of aggressive driving (hard shifting). Be sure to fiddle with all the switch gear in the cabin, just to make sure it all works.
Maintenance: they can be a maintenance nightmare at times. They are expensive to have a mechanic/dealer work on. Be sure the 60/120/180K tuneups have been done (depending upon mileage of course) The timing belt needs replaced every 60K. If the t-belt breaks, more often than not, it will trash the motor as these are zero tolerance motors. (valves will hit the pistons, etc.) If you do have the t-belt replaced, make sure they do the water pump and tensioners while they are in there (have to remove the t-belt to do those items anyway.) Spark plugs can be a PITA, but only the back three as they are partially hidden by the intake/plenum.
Bugs: Mitsu used less than quality capacitors on their electronic equipment in the late 80's early 90's. These capacitors are in the ECU, ECS computer, TCU (auto tranny) and to have a tendency to leak. This does cause unusual problems on occasion. They can be replced for a couple hundred bucks (depending upon where you go.)
The early generations of Stealth/3000gt's also have lifters (lash adjusters) that sometimes tick. (tick, tick, tick when idling). Mitsu only used 1mm oil passages in the lifters (hydralic) and they will tick on occasion. It is normal and doesn't seem to be detrimental. The later generation of 3000gt (they quit making Stealths for the 96 model year) have 3mm oil passages and no lifter tick.
Reliable: I have an RT (FWD, auto) that I have had for 6 years. It has never given me any problems other than normal maintenance items. 156K on it. I bought an RT/TT about a month ago. No leaks, runs great, everything works, it has 175K on it.
I wouldn't trade either one of my Stealths for anything.
Maintenance: they can be a maintenance nightmare at times. They are expensive to have a mechanic/dealer work on. Be sure the 60/120/180K tuneups have been done (depending upon mileage of course) The timing belt needs replaced every 60K. If the t-belt breaks, more often than not, it will trash the motor as these are zero tolerance motors. (valves will hit the pistons, etc.) If you do have the t-belt replaced, make sure they do the water pump and tensioners while they are in there (have to remove the t-belt to do those items anyway.) Spark plugs can be a PITA, but only the back three as they are partially hidden by the intake/plenum.
Bugs: Mitsu used less than quality capacitors on their electronic equipment in the late 80's early 90's. These capacitors are in the ECU, ECS computer, TCU (auto tranny) and to have a tendency to leak. This does cause unusual problems on occasion. They can be replced for a couple hundred bucks (depending upon where you go.)
The early generations of Stealth/3000gt's also have lifters (lash adjusters) that sometimes tick. (tick, tick, tick when idling). Mitsu only used 1mm oil passages in the lifters (hydralic) and they will tick on occasion. It is normal and doesn't seem to be detrimental. The later generation of 3000gt (they quit making Stealths for the 96 model year) have 3mm oil passages and no lifter tick.
Reliable: I have an RT (FWD, auto) that I have had for 6 years. It has never given me any problems other than normal maintenance items. 156K on it. I bought an RT/TT about a month ago. No leaks, runs great, everything works, it has 175K on it.
I wouldn't trade either one of my Stealths for anything.
If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. That is all I could think of off the top of my head.

If you do purchase a Stealth, I highly recommend getting a Service Manual. It will be the best 100$ you spend on your car.


If you do purchase a Stealth, I highly recommend getting a Service Manual. It will be the best 100$ you spend on your car.
things to check when looking at the car:
oil cooler lines: next to the driver side wheel there's a brace. wipe a finger on the top side and see if there's oil. if there is, an oil cooler line is leaking. i purchased my tt at 170k and had to replace both lines. also had to replace the a/c compressor hose. it was worn out too.
and if the person selling is really cool, ask if they'll let u pull off the y-pipe and center T (there's a t right after the MAF. check the y pipe for oil. also check the rear intake pipe. if the rear intake pipe has oil, you're getting some blowby. if there's oil in the right side of the y pipe (line off the rear turbo) you've got lots of blow by... this is probably from worn piston rings.
all this is from personal experience. lol. i'm having heads rebuilt because the valve stem seals are toast, the engine rebuilt due to worn piston rings, etc etc. over all, it's worth it
oil cooler lines: next to the driver side wheel there's a brace. wipe a finger on the top side and see if there's oil. if there is, an oil cooler line is leaking. i purchased my tt at 170k and had to replace both lines. also had to replace the a/c compressor hose. it was worn out too.
and if the person selling is really cool, ask if they'll let u pull off the y-pipe and center T (there's a t right after the MAF. check the y pipe for oil. also check the rear intake pipe. if the rear intake pipe has oil, you're getting some blowby. if there's oil in the right side of the y pipe (line off the rear turbo) you've got lots of blow by... this is probably from worn piston rings.
all this is from personal experience. lol. i'm having heads rebuilt because the valve stem seals are toast, the engine rebuilt due to worn piston rings, etc etc. over all, it's worth it


