LOL! I already have a 1970 Plymouth road runner, a 2004 Harley Davidson Wide Glide, a 20 foot boat, and a 2004 Chevy Tahoe. Atleast the Tahoe and HD actually run. I haven't even had the Stealth two weeks yet. If I can get the car running under it's own power that should shut her up for a day or two.

 

Are you talking about the vacuum canister in the bottom right hand of the picture? That is the dash-pot. At the end of tha very short curved hose is a vacuum valve. The vacuum valve has nothing coming from it and honestly, I'm not sure what it does.

 

That sounds like that might be it. Can you snag a pic or two of the vacumn pot and valve for me? The way it looks on mine, the gold toned vacumn canister seems to be used to set the fast idle. Here's a couple of pics of the area that I'm refering to.

[IMG]local://upfiles/39573/D6412AE5678240E4A8F70A6A5C1617D8.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/39573/39A03B521D014F72A3441789A554FA67.jpg[/IMG]

 

 

Time for an update. I just ordered a 255lph high pressure fuel pump for the bomber ($97.98). When it comes in, I'll be swapping it out then re-evaluating the car.

 

Update time. I got royally screwed on the $98.00 255 lph fuel pump (never got the part). I finally got a Bosch OEM replacement pump. Once I got that in, still no fuel. I checked voltage at the black/blue feed wire, 0v. I had checked the old pump before ordering the new to verify that it was in fact dead. I ran a hot wire to the + lead on the pump and got fuel. The car now starts but will not rev. It will idle semi decently, but if I gas it it will crap out as soon as the turbos start making boost. The CES light remains dark and no codes appear. When the car is running, I hear a clicking noise (like a relay tripping and resetting) inside the car. It sounds like it's coming from behind the dash just forward of the center console. I haven't clipped the feed wire for the fuel pump yet, so I'm wondering if I'm getting voltage reversion causing the fuel pump relay to trip in reverse since it doesn't seem to be functional (hence the lack of voltage at the pump). It would seem that most of my problems are of the electrical/computer variety.
Also, the clutch is completely disengaged. The pedal is dead soft and I can row the gears with the engine running with no effect on movement. I think that I bottomed the throw out bearing when I stomped the clutch pedal to get the starter to engage. I had already planned to replace the clutch due to how long the car sat up before I got it. Has anyone tried the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch assembly for these cars? If so, how do you like it? Was it worth the nearly $400.00?

 

Not a big car expert, but i have heard if the computers on these cars sometimes get leaky capacitors and when they do they cause all sorts of probs. and a symptom of them was a "Clicking noise coming from behind the dash" from the computer resetting all the time.. IDK i'm not a pro just something to look into.

 

Yeah, at least pull the ECU and check the capacitors. It's a fairly easy job. The clicking is probably from the coil on the passenger side foot well (on the console). When you pull the carpet off the console you will see it. Check the caps.

 

I have mitsu 3000gt and the same problem. If motor temperature goes up then with backlash the car dies out. I have this vacuum valve what is in the pictures above, but i do not know where the second (bottom) hose must be connected. Can anybody help me?

Thanks!

 

I have a 92 Stealth SOHC 5spd, (just two months now and love it) The 1st thing i did was get on Ebay and buy a CD of factory manuals ($6.50 + shipping). BIG HELP!! No other sources compare, even the professional mechanics stuff. Also, I just replaced the clutch, throw-out bearing, pressure-plate, master & Slave cylnder, all the belts, plugs & wires. Other then a bad MAS it runs great. All this being said, get the books, read up on it, and find someone with a computer to do full dianostics, THEN start with one problem at a time. Yes the clutch propaly needs replacing, but if it has sat long enough to ruin the clutch, then better be looking at your belts ( including timing) and break lines etc...etc...etc. Without those pubs, your chasing your tale when it comes to troubleshooting this beast. Everything effects everything else on these cars. I found that the previous owner had ripped out all the clutch/starter interlock and wiring. Thus I can start minein or out of gear w/ or w/oclutch. As far as I can tell, one ofthe interlocks is mounted near the pedal like the your stop light switch is. There is no actual wiring in the master cylyner thatI can tell. One last note, if you care is not a twin turbo, super charged bla bla bla...and just a regular ol Stealth like mine, just get a clutch from NAPA...$164.00 works great last long time. Needless to say,I didn't buy mine to race. (it ain't no Corvette[8D] ) hope that helps...somewhat.

Jeff