quick question for anyone who knows.

I was having some strange problems in my girls stealth; first started bad idle would also sometimes die out, then it started to have starting problems(clicking noise) so i put a new starter in. The new starter didnt solve any problems, still stalling and hard starting problems. I checked lotsa sensors for the idle and what not but didnt help at all.

Someone suggested that it could be a ignition switch problem(not sure why this would cause idle/dieing out problems); so anyways I ran some wire directly from the battery to the starter harness by the airbox, it started up great. I figured a easy fix was to wire a push button starter to the harness. Still have to have key in ingition to on but this actually cured all the problems.

Problem is now that in the mornings or after any long periods of sitting when pushing the button to start the car it takes the car a long time to acutally start, like it's taking a long time to get fuel or something.

I was wondering if the way i hooked the button up is not a good way, do I need to splice into the actuall ignition wires or something? I thought maybe there is a wire that gets the pump going or something, not really sure. Or is this a entirely different problem? This problem only started with the push button, when the ignition actually worked the car would start up quickly.

Thanks in advance.

 

A couple of questions for you. First, when you say that you ran a wire from the battery to the starter, did you use a relay, or did you just run a length of wire? What gauge of wire did you use? If you didn't use a relay, is the switch that you're using rated for the amperage required for the starter (75+)? If your new circuit is not up to the high current draw imposed by the starter, not only could it make starting a problem it could cause a fire.

 

The switch I am running is actually a starter buttion rated @ 90amps, not a fog light toggle switch. running 8 guage i think, its slighly larger then the original wiring that I am connecting to. I basicly went to the junk yard, grabbed a harness and cut the female end of the harnes off and used that to connect to the original harness under the airbox that goes to the starter solenoide. Used the other end(male) to cap off the original female end of the original harness.

Thanks for the concern...so do you have any ideas to the actuall problem I am having?

 

It sounds like you did it right. I can't imagine your modification causing the current problem. It could just be coincidental timing. Do you have a service manual? I wonder if your new switch is drawing so much power that the ignition or fuel pump aren't getting enough current.

 

It sounds like you have bypassed all of the ECM's signals for starting. In addition to fuel and timing, the ECM adjusts the Idle Air Controler to provide more air. Sometimes I wonder if all the hassles with computers are worth it![&:] Check out the other posts about idleing and ecm problems.

 

It shouldn't bypass the ECM by running a hot wire to a switch. He still has to turn the key to the run position to start the car. That should work, unless the key switch itself has a function that controls the choke for startup, but I doubt it.

 

If you are pushing a button to directly activate the starter solenoid, the ECM will not see the ignition switch in the "Start" position and therefore will not adjust the IAC as needed for a starting condition.