On my 93 Stealth I have been having a problem to keep it running when it warms up. It runs very rough and when you get it gas it either stalls or boggs. I have checked the plugs visuallly and they look fine but when I put a coventual timing light on each of the plug wires only two of them (each on different coil packs) have a constant flickering light. The other 4 are very sparatic and even when at a higher RPm they will not flicker at all until the RPM drops and then they flicker sparatically again. I have put new 8MM plug wires on and no change what so ever. Any Ideas what my problem may be?
Thanks Darrell

 

Hey Darrell,
I have no definate answer to your question, but I will try to point you in the right direction. I basically flows like this, ECU tells the PTU (power trans unit) to fire the coil packs. One coil pack runs two plugs 1-3, 2-4, 3-6 The ECU gets it signals from the crank angle sensor and cam angle sensor. I cannot remember if the 1st gens had the cam angle sensor or if it was in the 2nd gens. 1st gen is from 91 to 93, 2nd gen is from 94 to 96 for the Stealths.

This is just a guess, but I am thinking it could be the ECU from the description you gave. There are capicitors in the ECU that are known to start leaking, this could be giving you your sporadic firing, again I am just speculating. The manual did not give me any definate answer in its troubleshooting section.

You may want to post your question on 3si.org/forum as there is a much broader knowledge base there.

Let me know how it turns out.

 

Many thanks for your reply - thestealth. On the weekend I thought I would tackle the ECU but your reply about the cam angle got me thinking. Took off the two timing covers and inner splash sheild, turned the crank until the timing marks on the front bank lined up. They matched the marks perfectly then, looked at the rear bank and the intake cam is off 4 coggs on the pulley and the exhaust cam is off 2 coggs from the respective arrows on the head. Haven't got the cover of to check the crank sprocket yet. Only have the tensioner, alt and motor mount of so far. (Do I need a puller for the crank pulley or will it just slip off?) Got a new belt on order ($188 CDN) unreal!! It's going to take a few days to come so no rush I guess. My next question is could the jumped cams put the firing order out of wack does it have anything to do with the cam angle sensors or should I still investigate the ECU? Might just wait till I get the new belt on, eh>
Thanks Again Darrell

 

Sometimes you can get lucky and get the crank pulley off, more than likely you will need a puller. If you are changing the T-belt, go ahead and change the water pump, tensioner and idler pulley while you are in there. In the long run you'll be happy you did.

The t-belt having jumped a few teeth will definatly cause you timing to be off. I am unsure if your 93 has Cam angle sensors or not. I know one of the generations of stealth/3000gt had them, just do not know which generation.

I would start with replacing the belt, tensioners, and water pump. Get the timing set, based on the marks, and see what happens. When you replace the belt, try to install in ONE tooth retarded. When you release the tension on the belt, it should be lined up at that time. That little "tip" was in the service manual.

Good luck.

 

Thanks Again - the stealth. Your right, it would be a good idea to replace the two tensioner pulleys and the water pump. The alt and the motor mount are not the easiest to remove. What a weird and awkward place for the alternator idler adjustment bolt! Goin to phone for prices right away.When you say one tooth retarted are you meaning the crank sprocket only. Should I just position the mark on the sprocket one tooth behind the indicator on the block?

Thanks Darrell

 

That is the way I read it in the manual. I will be home today around 6:00CMT. I will double check the manual at that time. I'll let you know, I would not want to be giving out misinformation. But that is how I remember it.

 

Hey - Thanks Again - Priced out the pump and pulleys. The water pump is $234 CDN, The pulleys are $63 and $69. I remember someone had posted earlier that these 3000 motors are pricey for parts. Was he right!! I'm going to check the pump before I replace it but I will replace the tensioner and idler pulleys. When ever you get a chance you can pass on the timing sprocket info.
Thanks Darrell

 

Here is what the manual has for t-belt installation. The manual is for a 1992.

I have to upload it in two pages, the next one will follow.

 

Here is page two. This should give you most of what you need to know

I would go ahead and replace the water pump while you are in there. It could start leaking at any time if it has not been replaced. You will then have to go through all of this pain in the *** again.

Good luck.

 

Many - Many Thanks - thestealth. Both pics printed perfectly. The info is going to very helpful. Pulled the crank pulley off last night, came off pretty good, just wiggled it. The marking on the sprocket is just about bang on to where it should be, looks like just the cam sprockets on the rear bank jumped. Mine has a indicating notch in a thin plate behind the sprocket unlike the your pic that shows an actual indicator plate. Maybe the difference between the years. Phone the local parts store to get the water pump and they said 7 to 10 day delivery. So phoned the local Dodge Dealer and their price is $370 CDN still a week delivery! I know some people think Canada is out in the Back Woods but this is %#@<%$ ridiculous.
Thanks Again Darrell