98 stratus A/C issue
Ok, here's the situation:
A/C only pushes out warm air. Fan operates at all speeds and the little green light will come on. I have hooked up a charging kit with agauge to the low side and it says that the charge is fine (approximately 30-35 PSI running). When engine runs, a fan on the left side of the front of the engine (as you look at it) kicks on and off. I can also hear a clicking sound near there as well. Can someone give me some ideas on what to do or check for. As it stands, I think I need to take it into a repair shop but I don't have the cash to get it fixed.
Please help.
Thanks in advance.
A/C only pushes out warm air. Fan operates at all speeds and the little green light will come on. I have hooked up a charging kit with agauge to the low side and it says that the charge is fine (approximately 30-35 PSI running). When engine runs, a fan on the left side of the front of the engine (as you look at it) kicks on and off. I can also hear a clicking sound near there as well. Can someone give me some ideas on what to do or check for. As it stands, I think I need to take it into a repair shop but I don't have the cash to get it fixed.
Please help.
Thanks in advance.
sounds like a bad fan relay or a low pres sensor to me. the following isBASIC info how how the a/c sys works.
the refrig (R134a) is in a gas state. the compressor turns it into a liquid and sends it to the evap core (inside the car) where it evaps from a liquidinto a gas (hence the name evap core, it looks like a small rad).to make any liquid go into a gas state takes ALOT energy (also known as heat). soooo the evap core ACTS like a heat sink, soaking up the "hottness" of the air inside the car. the energy or "heat" of the air is trasfered from the evap core to the R134a (in a gas state). although the compress sends the liquid R134 to the evap core, as it turns into a gas it propelles itself to the condensor core (this is the rad that is in front of your rad that has the green/orange emgine coolant in it). as the name implies it turns your R134a from a gas into a "liquid" (it really does try). in order for it to do this it must get rid of all the "heat" it picked up from the cab and engine bay. it works ok if you are going about 70mph, downhill, with a tailwind, andin neutral. this is why your fan comes on, to blowblow air across the condens rad (it should cycle about once every 5min when first turned on).after it exits the conden core it gets sucked back into the compress to turn into a liquid.
at least 2 saftey features are built into the sys. low press switch (wires going into the bigger of the a/c lines). as the R134 also carries the lube for the compress, this will cut power to the compress if the R134a press gets to low. as you have good press i'd disconit and jump the lead with a wire to see if this was the prob. high press switch keeps it from blowing the seals. just rubber o-rings, you can get a kit for under $30 a the local parts store.
as for the relay, sometimes the contacts get carbon built-up on them, sould be fairly cheap, never had to replace one. happy motoring.
the refrig (R134a) is in a gas state. the compressor turns it into a liquid and sends it to the evap core (inside the car) where it evaps from a liquidinto a gas (hence the name evap core, it looks like a small rad).to make any liquid go into a gas state takes ALOT energy (also known as heat). soooo the evap core ACTS like a heat sink, soaking up the "hottness" of the air inside the car. the energy or "heat" of the air is trasfered from the evap core to the R134a (in a gas state). although the compress sends the liquid R134 to the evap core, as it turns into a gas it propelles itself to the condensor core (this is the rad that is in front of your rad that has the green/orange emgine coolant in it). as the name implies it turns your R134a from a gas into a "liquid" (it really does try). in order for it to do this it must get rid of all the "heat" it picked up from the cab and engine bay. it works ok if you are going about 70mph, downhill, with a tailwind, andin neutral. this is why your fan comes on, to blowblow air across the condens rad (it should cycle about once every 5min when first turned on).after it exits the conden core it gets sucked back into the compress to turn into a liquid.
at least 2 saftey features are built into the sys. low press switch (wires going into the bigger of the a/c lines). as the R134 also carries the lube for the compress, this will cut power to the compress if the R134a press gets to low. as you have good press i'd disconit and jump the lead with a wire to see if this was the prob. high press switch keeps it from blowing the seals. just rubber o-rings, you can get a kit for under $30 a the local parts store.
as for the relay, sometimes the contacts get carbon built-up on them, sould be fairly cheap, never had to replace one. happy motoring.
fan relay should be in the eng fuse box. it's about a 1" cube. the cover should be labled as to what's what. check next to the driver's side strut mount under the hood, might be more than one, should be interchangable so try swapping them around.
I don't know how, but the A/C would work and then quit intermittently while driving down the road. I had to put the car in neutral and rev the rpms to about 5K for a few seconds to get the A/C to kick back on. It did this twice on a 13 mile trip at 70 mph. Since then, I haven't had an issue with intermittent operation. It seems to be working fine now...but I fear the worst
Does anyone know why my revving of the engine made the A/C work?
Does anyone know why my revving of the engine made the A/C work?
most a/c systems have a power cut off, kills the a/c compress when eng rpms go above a set number. sounds like it might be a bad relay depends on the rpm's. what have you checked out?
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if u can get to the compressor when it is not working have the car running ac on and with a screw driver and hammer smack the compressor clutch to see if it is jared back to working if so then u need either a compressor or a rebuild clutch kit u pic.compressor less time more money clutch more time and experence needed.


