So I just replaced the timing belt & water pump on the '96 2.5 24v V6. I marked the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and the corresponding stationary marks with whiteout to ensure it was properly timed. I hand-cranked the engine more than enough to check the marks - and they are perfect.

However, on every complete revolution, it sounds like I've got some momentary, slight contact. I'm stumped as to what it could be and where to proceed. Although the job was a huge pain in the @$$, I past wanting to blow the car up.

What do you think? As I said, the timing between the camshaft and crankshaft is dead on. And it was a maintenance repair, not a broken timing belt repair. Thanks.

 

I just wanted to thank all who replied with suggestions. I crossed my fingers and turned the key....and bad noises emanated from the engine.

Why don't the timing marks produce correct timing?

I pushed the car out of the garage and replaced it with a more worthwhile car to fix...a Saab.

 

Well, the mystery has been solved. The source of the noise was a driveplate-to-torque converter bolt backing out. Looks like some idiot didn't use locktite and didn't torque to specs when the service was done. Yet one more reason to do the work yourself.

I purchased a replacement motor and was separating the transmission when I notice the bolt was backed out about 1/4 inch. It was contacting the cover. I will continue with the replacement because the "new" motor has only 98k miles compared to the old one with 185k miles.

What a coincidence to start making noise right after timing belt replacement, though.

And I continue to find designs of idiots. [8D] Take the rear motor mount. It is flanged and has a "D" shape, which means you can't simply press it out. (Oh, I know, it's easy to put back in and you can't do it wrong!) You have to beat or cut it out. I chose the beating. It's what the design deserves.

I'm ready to put the engine back in. Let's just see how that goes.

 

Engine/trans back in on side mounts for now. It's going a little better than I thought it would. The rear lift bracket is in a stupid location, though. I did the driver side mount first. I left the engine a little low so I could undo the hoist chain from the rear lift bracket, and lifted via floor jack the remaining few inches. Next I'll do the rear mount by pivoting engine on side mounts. This makes it easy to connect exhaust & rear mount.