Recently I replaced the rear main seal in my 96 stratus during which time I also did routine maintenance items (timing belts, trans filter and fluid, etc...). It wasn't but a few thousands miles later that the transmission started acting up, where it would start slipping and making a whining noise. I commenced to pulling the pan to investigate and found the fluid to be dark and milky (like entrained water). Also, there was a lot of metal shaving. This was a surprise to me, especially since I just serviced it. Never the less, I figured that the I burnt it up some how and got another junk yard tranny to replace it. It has been a couple of weeks since I changed it out and now, yesterday, the same exact symptoms have started again. Two things that I think might be suspect are: 1) the trans cooler lines can easily be swapped; did I reverse flow through radiator? would this effect anything? 2) The transmission fluid I purchased was general ATF+4; the dip stick says 7176 type. Is there a difference? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I am at my whit’s end on this one.

 

To answer your questions...
1)Reversing those lines can be catastrophic to your transmission. ALWAYS make sure you put things back together the same way. (I always take pics, or just jot notes down, marking things up, etc.)
2)In '96 Chrysler didn't have atf+4, what is indicated is actually atf+3. Chrysler recommended that all atf+3 applications switch to atf+4, and atf+3 was discontinued and should not really be available anywhere anymore. It is prefered to use true Chrysler atf+4, however many have found the generic atf+4 to be OK.

 

Might you be able to tell me which port on the transmission your top radiator hose is connected to? The drivers or passengers side?

 

Perhapps. I will need to know what YOU have first. Do you have the 2.0, 2.4, or 2.5v6?
Each engine is hooked up differently, and what is right for my (2.5v6) may not be right for you if you have the 2.0 or 2.4

 

It's a 2.4L. Figuring that I couldn't do any more damage, I switched the cooler line connections and nothing changed. It could have even made situation worse. At any rate, I have convinced myself that I am at fault when I did the rear main seal, cause before that I had no problems with the transmission. Going forward, I talked to local trans shops who want $900+ to diagnose and fix. The blue book is only $1200 and unless I can figure out how to fix at lower cost, I am thinking of just cutting my loses. Anyone looking for parts?

 

Okay, I used to work at a trans shop several years ago...$900+ looks a little low to me. Depending on where you took it, they probably told you that to go through it and replace all the "soft parts" (gaskets, clutches, filter, and the like) is going to run $900 and that if there were any hard parts that were damaged (which they can't tell what has been damaged until the open it up), it would be extra. Shops will always find "hard Parts" damage. And they are pricey. An issue with getting a used junkyard trans, is that you have no idea how it was operated before you got it. It could have been going bad and you would not have known it. If it was going bad and you flushed it, that flush can cause bigger problems. Not your fault. Did you replace the torque converter? Or use your old one? Is it worth it to get it fixed (which can run you around $2200)? Thats up to you. Here are things I asked people when in your situation...How has the car been for you since you've owned it? Problematic? Costly? Has it been a good runner? What kind of shape is it in (interior and exterior)? Have you had any other major problems with it? Your answers to these questions would determine what you should do--or at least what I would suggest you do. If you have positive answers to most of these questions, keep it and fix it, but don't throw another junker trans in it. If it has had a lot of problems, get rid of it. But think about it for awhile. Are you in a position to pay off a newer car or would a transmission be easier to pay off?

 

Happy, happy, joy, joy... Well I was able to get another transmission at no cost, and no questions asked, from the junk yard. I installed it, and this time, looped the trans cooler ports with some clear hose to see flow direction. Flow went front drivers side port to passenger side. This told me that it would make sense that the drivers side outlet should go to the top of the radiator and the tranny return (suction side) should attach to the bottom of the radiator (opposite previous line-up). This way you're not trying to suck from the vapor space at the top of the radiator. During test drive, car felt healthy again. No hard shifting or bucking. Its been a couple of weeks now with no trouble. I think that we can claim victory on this one and, thanks to you, I don't have a new car payment. I appreciate your help on this matter and all the feedback.