I tried pulling a couple things and redoing the OBD, but nothing came up except for what I had off. I changed the oil and filter from cranking it over so much there was a ton of gas in the oil. I'm at a loss here. I think it's time to take it in and get it inspected. I just don't want to pay all that money for it to be something I could do myself.

 

Okay, so in other words the computer is responding and throwing out codes when ever you removed a sensor rite? So it may not be the computer...
Let me throw this past you. 110,000 miles is a load of miles. When you took the top timing belt cover off to inspect the timing belt did you really get a good look at it? What if the belt has slipped a few teeth?

Jack up the car put it on jackstands and take your tire off. Pull out the spark plug on the number one cylinder. Get yourself the rite size socket and a good half inch drive or breaker bar with an extra long extension and turn the crankshaft clockwise. You'll have to muscle through this. And be careful cause while turning it sorts of snaps through quickly after you go through the turn. Have the top timing belt cover off and see if the cam sprockets timing marks are aligning. They should be perfectly aligned. You will see them. They look like little notches on the sprockets. You may have to turn the crankshaft more than once clockwise in order for them to line up. If you keep turning and the marks keep passing each other without lining up then your timing is off. Your goal should be that the marks line up perfectly and that the number one cylinder is top dead center. You should be able to see the cylinder all the way to top when the marks are aligned. Let us know...
Good Luck man...

 

Turns out that the car did jump time a little. Thanks for the advice castle. Having it fixed this weekend. I'll let you know when I finally get it started!

 

Well, sadly after replacing the timing belt, the car still doesn't start. I don't have any other ideas on what it could be. I found out that there are certain service bulletins on the stratus. Does anyone have any experience with these? There is one that says conditions with vehicle start and stall or vehicle no start for the 1999's, but I can't get any information on it without paying something. Back to square one. Although I think I'll go on a hunt for a new computer then. I think that's the last thing I haven't tried. Those seem to be hard to find at the junk yards around where I live.

 

Darn that really sucks! I can't believe it...

I did a little research for you.

TSB #1802001 -- EXHIBITING ROUGH IDLE, HARD START AND START & STALL.*CLS (NHTSA ID #623153, AUGUST 17 2001)

Then I found
Chrysler Forum - Chrysler Enthusiast Forums > Chrysler Vehicles > Chrysler Sebring
97 Convertible stalling at highway speed

11-18-2007, 08:44 AM
jessestaton

Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 4
97 Convertible stalling at highway speed
I have a 1997 Sebring convertible with the 2.5L V6.

I have been experiencing a few concerns - in chronological order:

1. first to appear was after the engine is warm and has been driven a few miles, the oil pressure light will flicker while stopped at a traffic signal in Drive. Goes away on acceleration.

2. While driving at steady highway speeds the engine will stall/quit. Vehicle continues to coast. Lights all work but engine is off. After a few hundred feet or more of coasting the engine will restart by itself and vehicle drives normally. I had just left it in drive and never touched the key and it just started to operate normally again.

3. After driving until engine is warm, transmission in Park, occasionally has an erratic idle speed. Idle speed goes up and down between 900-1500. This has happened only a couple times and I continued to drive the vehicle before long so I did not observe the erratic idle for more than 2 minutes before moving the vehicle.

4. After driving until engine is warm, vehicle stalled on acceleration from a stop sign. Oil pressure light was flickering at the stop sign. Vehicle restarted and drove normally after about 1 minute of trying (white knuckled-dark-sitting across 2 lanes in the middle of a busy and fast 3 lane road). this has happened once.

No MIL lignt, no codes registering on the computer available for loan at the local parts store.

My thoughts are:
contaminated fuel - just put in some dry gas
plugged fuel filter - my next step
fuel pump
MAF?
PCV - though it sounds like its fine, might replace just because its cheap and couldn't hurt.
Fuel pressure regulator
Whatever passes for an Idle Air Controller on the Sebring.

Anyone have any experience with a similar concern or thoughts?

Thanks!
Jesse Staton
Detroit, MI

#2
11-18-2007, 10:30 AM
moe
Senior Member

Join Date: Aug 2006
Location:
Posts: 687
RE: 97 Convertible stalling at highway speed
there is a tsb for a revised egr valve.heres the tsb #18-020-01.ive seen them go bad with out any codes .heres the new part # if you need it.4287646ac this is direct from chrysler.as far as your oil light coming on i would change your oil sending unit.when you change it you will notice one wire and the opening next to it in the connector will have a wire blockoff.little peice of plastic where secondwire belongs.well after replace the sensor,remove that little plastic piece.just toss it out.let me know moe
__________________
25 or so years exp.with chrysler,plymouth,dodge.jeep."A"tech at dodge /jeep dealership.living in N.J. "LET ME KNOW MOE!!

Here is the original link.

http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=4202

Hey keep us informed. I hope you make well...

 

Well, finally got the car fixed. Turns out that the fuel pump had to be replaced, but the new distributor, and crankshaft sensor I bought were bad. Had to go get new ones and replace them again. At least that's what the mechanics said. So after months of trying to figure it out, it finally runs again.