www.harborfreight.com sells them cheap. You need an aircompressor of some type (even a little pancake compressor would work)

 

Well I took off the coils on the front and found oil in two of the three sprak plug tubes. So I took off the front valve cover and put on a new gasket and spark plug tube seals. So far so good but my wife drove it for a week last time before it sprayed oil on the motor. There is some smoke coming from the heat shield in front by the o2 but I didn't power wash the motor yet and think it's just oil burning off, let me know if anyone thinks that could be something else.

 

Jeremy, I had the problem of the spark plug tube seals shrinking and allowing oil to puddle, but it didn't reach up into the boot/to the tip of the plug so I was fortunate to get the VCG/tube seals replaced before it started creating a potential fire hazard.

A mechanic friend took his air compressor and sprayed all of the oil out from down there(since suctioning doesn't get it all) and it did get over the windshield but much easier to clean up than a spill on the ground.

Since I have not had the oil return.

Car: 1999 2.4L

 

Oh, btw, since that engine is the 'sludge prone' one, have you looked down into the oil filler cap just after an oil change, a few miles driven anyway, with a flash light at an angle if you can't see with the naked eye, to see if it looks black, varnished, or just metal covered with thin layers of clean oil? You may have some sludge going on creating a non-typical blow-by.

As for your oil filler cap...is it a twist on that just screws until tight or is it a spring-loaded filler cap? That may help relieve some pressure.

 

Sludge is not created by any engine it is because of lack of service. The Dodge engine is a well designed and is as good as any on the market today.

 

Addct, I don't have really any sludge I already took the valve cover off and all looks real good. I also got all the oil out of the plug tubes sucked most out and got the rest with long Q-tips like things. I was told to run a can of "seafoam" through the gas tank by a mechanic friend of my dads. To help if there is any rings or valves sticking, what do you guys think? I do use seafoam in my mowers and small engines.

 

Addct, The oil cap is just the twist on. I also didn't do the back valve cover, it had no sign of anything wrong but I did keep the new gasket for the back I might do it in the summer.

 

Okay, suffice to say that the V6 engine was known to sludge up faster than others when allowed to lapse in service.

 

Jeremy, I don't believe the VCG is the problem unless it's leaking oil, which is the primary purpose. Also, if you are keeping your OCI under 3,750k miles you are fine, as you have said your engine looks clean on the top end so far.

You could use SeaFoam once through the gas tank. Try half a can on less than 10 gallons. OR a full can on a full tank.

I personally like Amsoil products, but they are a bit pricey since you have to get them shipped to you. I'm a PC(no not windows 7, but a preferred customer) but only when I want to re-sign up when I go to buy more products. Their Pi additive is great as a gasoline additive. I also like to run premium Shell V-power from time to time. Never got into the Techron stuff, but I've heard good things.

Also, if you want to avoid SeaFoam because it has alcohol in it(isopropyl) thus risking the retention of moisture in your fuel system(which is why I only use it once every oil change at MOST), then go with Marvel Mystery Oil(MMO). Follow the instructions for adding it to the gas tank for several intervals.

...and while you may be relatively clean up top I also would recommend Amsoil's Power Foam to run through your intake while idling at full temp(car then is shut off as soon as contents of can is emptied), restarting the car a good hour or more later for a low RPM rev(2-3k) for a few minutes before the infamous blotting out of the sun WOT run out of the neighborhood. That can help with getting carbon deposits from off of top end of the engine.

Like with anything like the above, be sure to do an oil change immediately after since the foam will find a way into your oil while in your engine. I do this once a year to my cars in the summer, or at least to recently purchased used vehicles since I don't know how the previous owner treated the car.

I do run full synthetics, but if you are losing oil a High Mileage may help you in your case for a couple intervals.



As for the oil spewing issue, could something being clogged on the internals of the engine? Your car doesn't overheat, nor does it throw a CEL or oil light? How much oil do you lose between 3k mile intervals(or whatever your OCI is)?

 

If you are leaking oil the least expensive, and best way of finding the leak is to use a dye in your oil. It usually comes in about a 2 ounce bottle. Make sure you use the dye for motor oil. They also make it for transmissions, cooling systems, and AC systems. A bottle sells for about $7.00. The catch is you need a black light. In a dark place, run the engine and shine the light at a suspect leak area. The leak will show a florescent glow.
Kits containing dye and light are usually available on ebay. The cheap lights usually require complete darkness to see the leak.