Protecting a Primed Fender
After not receiving a straight answer.. I did more than a little bit of research on the subject. Found out that you are both right in your own ways.. and just arguing over difference in opinions.
After all the research I was talking about doing earlier, I decided to respray the fender and the rest of my car myself. I'll be starting another thread about it shortly.
After all the research I was talking about doing earlier, I decided to respray the fender and the rest of my car myself. I'll be starting another thread about it shortly.
Then could you recommend me a good gun. Nothing commercial, I don't want to go over $50 for a gun for now.. but something with attachments enough to shoot a primer, base and clear.
As far as paint.. I'm thinking on going with Rustoleum Primer and Black Satin. That way it will be very easy on me for future repairs.
As far as paint.. I'm thinking on going with Rustoleum Primer and Black Satin. That way it will be very easy on me for future repairs.
NO don't use rustoleum. Just use some Pro-prime, or 3-n-1, get a pint of your color for your car, and a pint of clear. If you start using generic home paint products, it'll make it harder on the body guy and add more labor in having to strip the material. I've come across panels that people spray bombed only to find bad reactions when I painted the car where the paint lifted a couple weeks later. If you do it right the first time, it will be right for the rest of the time. Infact, if you brought your fender to where I work, I'd shoot the fender right with the right color for $100. Then you'd know in the future that the fender is prep'd and painted right so down the road when you want your custom paint job, the base is right. Besided having one ugly fender on the car makes it look like you live in a trailer watching Deliverance as a love story.
So why don't you stop by a local corner body shop and ask about having them shoot your fender the right way. If you do it right, you might get it done for a case of beer plus materials (paint isn't free).
So why don't you stop by a local corner body shop and ask about having them shoot your fender the right way. If you do it right, you might get it done for a case of beer plus materials (paint isn't free).
I'm going to sand it down and spray it myself.. The whole car I'm talking. Flat/Satin/Matte Black. I've heard alot of people having good results with Rustoleum/Hammerite. Some have done a complete car with aerosol. But, I couldn't imagine spraying a car with a rattle can so I was gonna get a spray gun. (still didn't get a recommendation on that)
If not Rustoleum, then what. Only reason I was gonna go with them is because they have a 2-in-1 mixture which means less spraying. I suppose I could go with a Hot Rod Flatz 3 step process.
Not only will I be replacing the fender.. but I'm getting a new primed body kit which includes front and back bumpers and side skirts. Full car sprays from my local shop are in the ballpark of 2-3K. Why, when I can just spray the car myself for $2-300.
All information at this point is useful.
If not Rustoleum, then what. Only reason I was gonna go with them is because they have a 2-in-1 mixture which means less spraying. I suppose I could go with a Hot Rod Flatz 3 step process.
Not only will I be replacing the fender.. but I'm getting a new primed body kit which includes front and back bumpers and side skirts. Full car sprays from my local shop are in the ballpark of 2-3K. Why, when I can just spray the car myself for $2-300.
All information at this point is useful.
Harbor freight has some of the cheapest paint guns. It really doesn't matter what you spend on a gun, since you really don't want to do the job the right way. have at it with lawn furniture/ demo car paint.
Harbor Freight does have very cheap guns. For a one shot deal sure. I agree with 22 on this don't use rustoleum or anything of that sort. Spend the extra $300 roughly for materials at a body shop supply store. Do it right. The Hot Rodz isn't too bad if your just looking to go flat.
Otherwise you can still Prime it. Follow That with Black base coat. Then Follow that with Satin Clear. This will give you a much more quality job.
Otherwise you can still Prime it. Follow That with Black base coat. Then Follow that with Satin Clear. This will give you a much more quality job.


