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Fuel Injector Replacement Skills

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Old 06-20-2011 | 11:08 AM
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Default Fuel Injector Replacement Skills

Good Day. My 2000 Dodge Stratus (2.5L) just started running rough with a check engine light flickering. The code came out as P0304 and P0204, so they are telling me I need to replace the number 4 fuel injector at $527. I'm not a gear head, but I do small jobs on small engines like rebuild the carb or replace starters. The injectors look very accessible, yet I know they are under pressure. Is this a two man job and is it better off letting the mechanic do it? I see a replacement part at $124 by Delphi. Any thoughts?

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Old 06-20-2011 | 08:49 PM
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It is fairly simple, the Fuel rail comes out with all injectors, and then remove the metal clips for the injector, and pull it right out. Just remember to replace the rubber O-Ring for the injector.
pull the Fuel pump Fuse/relay. Start the car few times, it will deplete most of the fuel pressure in the rail.
You are going to have some gasoline spills, Just clean it up with Soap and water.
 
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Old 06-21-2011 | 09:25 AM
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Default Disconnect Battery

And, of course, disconnect the battery with the possibility of a fuel spill. Thanks for the advice on the fuse removal. Another fellow says his Civic has a pressure release on the fuel filter. My fuel filter happens to be hard to reach, or at least hard for me.

I have the injector and the new O rings. The track is right on top and looks to be easily accessible. I'm not sure of the number of mounting bolts yet, but will report.

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Old 06-26-2011 | 05:20 PM
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Default Upper Manifold

I'm having second thoughts about changing the fuel injectors. Draining the fuel line by disconnecting the fuel pump connectors and starting the car a few times worked. Taking off the air intake coverings was fine. Then I realized that my V6 required me to take off the upper manifold and all the connections. I began the job and after dropping a few rachet heads into the engine and running low on day light, I decide to put things back and reconsider. I thought maybe I could simply remove the forward fuel track without the uppper manifold off. I was able to disconnect the quick release and relatively little gas came out. After removing the track bolts I found that the two tracks were firmly connected and I couldn't remove just one. In addition, I was unable to find the injector order in the service manual. I not sure if injector #4 is in front center or rear center.

Any thoughts?

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Old 07-03-2011 | 03:26 AM
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The 2.5 had the even numbered cylinders at the front of the car. I had the same issue when I changed my spark plug wires.

Also, one more thing to note, the service manual may not have them, but the Haynes book does. I know I found my order on Chapter 2 haha
 
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Old 07-03-2011 | 12:44 PM
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Default #4 in front

The even cylinders up front is kind of good news, as my fault came from #4. However, it does look like I still have to remove the upper manifold in order to access the fuel injectors. The front track has a fuel line running to the back track and it appears to be one solid piece of metal. I can't lift the front track by itself. Has anyone attempted this?

When I reseated the wiring for the injectors the problem went away for a few days, so I thought it was electrical. However, it is back occationally, meaning when I start the car 1 out of 4 times the light is on and the car runs rough. Does that give me a clue to the source of the problem? I did run several tanks with Sea Form and thought that helped.

dgp
 
  #7  
Old 07-13-2011 | 10:58 AM
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I attempted that thinking that the fuel rail was separate and attached to the manifold. That wasn't such a good idea. I had to take off the whole fuel rail to get it back in. Long story short, just take off the upper manifold and take off the whole fuel rail.

Your problem may be wiring. I had a similar issue on the Jeep 4.0. Turned out to be a loose connection.
 



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