i saw a guy with an RT at the track, he was running slower than i was...

 

Just thought id point out that i was on Ripp's website today and they have brought some short headers out for the R/T that are a more reasonable price $469.99

 

2002 r/t 3.0L 2dr v6
A.E.M. Cold air intake (ebay)
Sylavnia silverstar headlights (walmart)
Plasticote "blue" caliper paint (ebay)
"STRATUS" vinal on calipers (vinzdecals.com)
custom eyebrows (vinzdecals.com)
"r/t" 3rd brake light cover (vinzdecals.com)
Slotted rotors (ebay)
12" radio anteana (shorty's)
17" Konig Reasons (discount tire)
kumho ecsta tires (discount tire)
Greddy SP2 cat back exhaust
(required a little manufacturing to fit)
Proflow design 62mm bored throttle body (proflowdesign.com)
custom grill inserts (gutter guard from home depot)
Eibach pro lowering springs
A'PEXi S-AFCII fuel management piggyback (Tuning Factory)

in my living room to be installed next week
nos fogger kit w/ remote bottle opener and nos pressure guage

According to the guys at tuning factory they are running a similar settup on an auto eclipse g/t and put down a 13.7 at 91 mph on stock wheels, so this should be a sweet step for the r/t

 

i need more info on your bottle setup...if you have an automatic, 13.7 would be BLINDING fast...figure you cut about 1.0-1.2 seconds per 100 shot...roughly...

 

It is a 75 hp shot, linked to the tps. ie it's an auto so. . .with the system armed if the pedal is down the nos is spraying. The system itself is a "dry" kit so it will be spraying the nitrous directly into the throttle body. The guy said fuel tuning is what will make a huge difference, as it should maximize power throughout the entire range, and when the nos sprays the ecu will essentially "dump" more fuel so the air/fuel ratio stays even when the nitrous is spraying. Thus greatly increasing the amount of combustion at one time. (safely I hope) Again he could have been selling me a load of crap as I never saw a dyno sheet or a quartermile slip, but I guess in a few weeks I'll know for myself right.

 

Another thought, our cars auto with good tires and basic cai and exhaust run mid 15's pending a good launch right? So fuel tuning should gain at least another second without the nos I would have to imagine. (The guys at aempower swear fuel tuning is the only way to go.) So that puts the car in mid/high 14's. With the 75 shot and current mods, you figure thats almost 300 hp for the entire run which like you said may gain a second, running into high 13's pending everything runs perfect. I could be way off, but the numbers look close. Even posting a stratus in the 14's would make me happy as hell and give the r/t some needed respect.

 

consider this...

with a different t-stat..CAI and catback...with the interior stripped clean, and with 15 inch low pro tires (which increase the final drive and improve acceleration) i only mustered a 16.1..with the new motor mounts, t-stat, cai, catback, track tires, and interior pulled (except with a full tank of gas, subs, amps, jack and tools in the trunk..i forgot about that crap) it still ran a 16.1...but that was with alot of extra weight, around 200lbs...all things considered, it may have gotten into the 15s. ive NEVER seen an auto RT run anywhere near a mid 15, as they are 16.7 ish, stock...the CAI and exhaust adds very little, and the best launch in the world wont cut it into the 15s. the 15" tires made a HUGE difference, and the mounts helped alot too

im not unfamiliar with nitrous, as i have run my buddy's sebring (95, 4-cylinder 5-speed) at the track quite a bit with a 55-75 wet shot. with the 55 shot, it cut about 6 tenths. i suppose that tuning the car with the piggyback may open up some more power, and as much as i would like to see you in the 14s, i dont know if its going to happen. granted, you have the TB that i do not, so i figure that you may pick up some power there, plus the tune, but it would have to be ALOT to work with a 75 shot to over a second...but i hope that im wrong...the RT coupe (or eclipse GTs) only dyno around 160hp at the wheels...which gives you about a 20% drivetrain loss with the automatic. those numbers come from russ from tearstone, who has an auto GT. figuring that same 20% drivetrain loss, with the 75 shot, youll be looking at 220 whp. the curb weight is around 3254...plus the driver...(i have no idea what you weigh)...so if you weigh 200lbs...thats 3454...plus fuel and any other little things (this is all purely conceptual)

when i put 3400lbs and 160whp into the ET calculator, it comes up with 16.1...which is pretty damn close to my actual times. so, if you take those numbers, and factor in the nitrous...it would be about a 14.6, but that is assuming that the car is perfectly tuned to accomodate the nitrous, and all other condition are perfect...those "perfect conditions" are the problem with a calculator...they assume that youre at sea level...perfect air, etc.

why did you chose a dry wet? a wet kit is far more safe.

on a side note, im in the process of trying to get some dimpled/slotted rotors...trying to avoid the "risks" of drilled rotors...and when your car is all finished up, id like to see it. you should try to come down to norwalk in september for the last mopar event, if i dont see it beforehand. norwalk is a nice fast track.

 

my mistake on the nos kit, it is wet.
I talked to the kid with the gt today, I missed one apparently huge mod. He said he has a high stall converter as well. Maybe that plus the tuning, plus the "my car is faster then yours" inflation would explain his sub 14 time. I also don't know what kind of difference "race fuel" would make as it seems all of these guys are buying these drums of "104 octane" gas. What does a lower t-stat do for power. That is something I can easily pick up at any autoparts store right? What about 8.5mm wires as well. I guess either he has more mods then he cared to share, was running a larger shot, or is full of s***. I was also thinking of adding the aem tru power pulley, not sure how much that would change, but it seems like that company is not fooling around.

 

ok...the high stall convertor would make a HUGE difference...id like to know where he got it? it was probably VERY expensive...

most race fuel would ruin your car...lol...most race fuel is leaded, which will plug your cat and back heat up into the engine...and ruin things. if you had a cat delete and a tune/ecu to deal with the lack of a cat, you could run the higher octane race fuel...with the nitrous, you will ALWAYS have to run at least 93 octane, and if that guy is tuned and is running no cats, he could very well be running a heavier shot and running 104 octane.

however, someone is making unleaded race fuel, but im not certain of the octane...i know that someone in our area has it...ill try to find out who. i think that torco makes it but im not sure. just putting 104 in your car is a waste of money, unless you have some sort of on-the-fly programmer to tell the car to respond to the better fuel...otherwise, a tune to run ONLY 104 octane would get VERY costly, and you would run poorly if you didnt have the 104 in there.


8.5 plug wires couldnt hurt, but dont expect much out of them...and the reason that i went to the slightly lower T-stat is because a slightly lower engine temp will let the car run better, and cool down faster at the track and such...but again, its not a big power added at all.

 

If I see him at the shop next time I'm there I'll ask about the stall converter. Problem is the kid is kind of a deuchbag. I'll see what the guys from the shop can dig up for me as well. I know your favorite company ripp has them for around 350 I believe, and I thought I saw some on exileracing.com, but I'll look more into it. If I'm not mistaken there are different types with different (I guess shift points) do you have any experiance with these, as I have no idea how they work, or what to look for, if there are different styles or aggressive levels?