My brother worked on my moms Stratus last weekend replacing lower control arms, lower ball joints and sway bar links. While he was in there he put a new set of brake pads on it. Now it has no brakes. My thinking was that maybe the calipers got on a bind or something so today, I replaced the calipers. Still nothing. It pumps up to a good pedal while it is shut off but as soon as you start it, the pedal goes away. Nothing in the brake system has been touched other than the calipers and the pads. The car had perfect brakes prior to this work. Is it possible that something else went wrong and its just a coinsidence that it happened when it did? Any ideas, I'd love to hear em!!

 

Wow, 55 views and not a single reply. Thanks for the help!!!

I went ahead and changed the master cylinder. It was bled prior to installation and then the entire system bled for the third time. Still no changes. This isnt making any sence to me. Please help!!!!

 

I read where someone had a similar problem after just replacing pads and replaced the rotors and the problem went away. Does this make any sence? We have not replaced the rotors because they really dont look all that bad. There is definate wear but I wouldnt call it extreme.

 

don't know how much i can help but i'll try hate messing with brakes. does the pedal fall away as your sitting there or while driving?are you getting fluid at all the brakes could be a damaged/collapsed hose.does it have antilock brakes on that model not sure on 99 models on '04 you have to bleed the antilock as a seperate system,how did you bleed brakes this is what info i have on dodge non abs brakes
BLEEDING

CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder cap, wipe it clean to prevent dirt and other foreign matter from dropping into the master cylinder reservoir.

CAUTION: Use only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a fresh, tightly sealed container. Brake fluid must conform to DOT 3 specifications.

Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while having a bleeder screw open during the bleeding process. This will only increase the amount of air in the system and make additional bleeding necessary.

Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run out of brake fluid while bleeding the system. An empty reservoir will allow additional air into the brake system. Check the fluid level frequently and add fluid as needed.

The wheel circuit sequence for bleeding the brake hydraulic system should be used to ensure adequate removal of all trapped air from the hydraulic system.

• Left rear wheel
• Right front wheel
• Right rear wheel
• Left front wheel

MANUAL BLEEDING

NOTE: To bleed the brakes manually, the aid of a helper will be required

1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw and feed the hose into a clear jar containing enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose (Fig. 1).
2. Have a helper pump the brake pedal three or four times and hold it in the down position.
3. With the pedal in the down position, open the bleeder screw at least 1 full turn.
4. Once the brake pedal has dropped, close the bleeder screw. After the bleeder screw is closed, release the brake pedal.
5. Repeat the above steps until all trapped air is removed from that wheel circuit (usually four or five times).
6. Bleed the remaining wheel circuits in the same manner until all air is removed from the brake system. Monitor the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir to make sure it does not go dry.
7. Check the brake pedal travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not been improved, some air may still be trapped in the system. Rebleed the brakes as necessary.
8. Test drive the vehicle to verify the brakes are operating properly and pedal feel is correct

 

The pedal goes away while sitting as soon as the car is started and will not pump back up. It will pump up to a nice pedal while it is shut off though. I havnt driven it yet because there is nothing there at all and I'm afraid to take it out on the road. I dont think its a line issue because everything worked perfect prior to replacing the pads. Unless of course, its just a freak coincidence.

The procedure I used for bleeding was just as you listed except I didnt use that sequence. I have always used the furthest away from the MC and then next furthest and so on. I'll bleed them again with the proper sequence but I still dont think thats the issue. This issue appeared after a pad change only so there was never any air introduced into this system untill I started replacing parts trying to chase the problem. The MC was bench bled before installation, bled again after installation and the entire system bled 3 times. Its been bled enough that there is now clean clear fluid pushed through the entire system and coming out at all four corners. I'm fairly confident there is no air in the system.

Have you ever heard of a problem like this by changing the pads but not the rotors? Rotors are only 20 bucks a side but I'm allready 120 bucks into parts that it didnt need trying to fix this so I hate to throw another 40 at it if its not going to change anything. I really need to get this thing fixed cause mom is driving my wifes car now and that kinda scares me a bit, lol!!

This is a NON ABS system.

 

don't think changing rotors would help the pedal,think that would help in case you were having brakes fade away while driving,don't know much about brakes do my own pads/rotors ; shoes or anything else i take to shop

 

129 views and 1 guy tries to help. Thanks Bill!! As for the rest of ya, this place is a joke!! Thanks for nothing!!

Just in case someone else comes to this place looking for answers. I'll go ahead and post what fixed the issue.

Believe it or not, it was the rotors. The rotors that were on it didnt look all that bad and definately didnt look bad enough to replace. Besides, I have done brake jobs on just about every kind of car out there and I have never had this kind of problem due to a pad only replacement.