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Stalling 2000 Status Sedan 2.0L

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Stalling 2000 Status Sedan 2.0L

  #1  
Old 08-06-2017, 09:00 PM
raphenning
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I have a 2000 Dodge Stratus Sedan 2.0L which stalls but does not turn on the check engine light and initially provided no codes. I have changed the following in this order:
1) Battery
2) Crank Position Sensor
3) Cam Position Sensor
4) MAP Sensor
5) Fuel Pump & Fuel Filter
6) Spark Plugs
7) ECU
And I still have the same problem? I borrowed a OTC Genesis Touch and finally got a P0320 code.

The fixes for P0320 code list all of the devices listed above and the "ignition/engine distributor engine speed sensor"

What is the "ignition/engine distributor engine speed sensor" is that not the Crank and Cam sensors

Car always starts initially and after driving it for 1.0-1.5 miles it stalls and wont restart right away. As long as I wait ~5 minutes the car will restart and I can again drive it for about the same distance and it will stall again?
 

Last edited by jkeaton; 08-06-2017 at 09:08 PM.
  #2  
Old 08-07-2017, 09:44 AM
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I would really appreciate any help as you can see I have been working on this car for a while and am not sure what to try next?
 
  #3  
Old 08-07-2017, 10:22 AM
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  #4  
Old 08-07-2017, 10:30 PM
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According to my Haynes Repair Manual my Stratus has a (DIS) Distributor-less Ignition System and instead uses coil packs with ignition wires. The engine incorporates the "waste spark" system. The DIS system includes the cam-shaft position sensor, the crankshaft position sensor, coil pack(s) (one coil for a pair of cylinders) the power transistor and the PCM (computer) . The coil and power transistor are built into one unit (coil packs) and mounted near the valve cover. the PCM generates cylinder identification signals which allow the power transistor to trigger the correct coil. The power transistor distributes the signal to the proper coil driver circuit and determines dwell period based on coil primary current flow. This DIS system uses a "waste spark" method of spark distribution. Each cylinder in the firing order, 1-4, 3-2; the cylinder under compression fires simultaneously with its companion cylinder which is on the exhaust stroke.
 
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Old 08-07-2017, 10:36 PM
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So could my problem be a bad coil pack which includes the power transistor? My symptoms of consistently running about 1.5 miles between stalls could possibly be consistent due to the coil packs getting too hot and failing? So after running ~1.5 miles the coils get too hot and fail and after sitting for ~5 minutes cool enough to run again for about ~1.5 miles?

Does this seem like a logical assumption? The coils are the only component in the ignition system I have not changed.

I would appreciate any opinions or other ideas?
 
  #6  
Old 08-08-2017, 08:31 PM
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Well I ordered (2) new coil packs and a set of spark plug wires too. I have to try something?

I would really appreciate any advice as I am running out of options. I am frustrated with the code being so generic that it does not identify the problem but only references the the ignition system as a whole. Also the recommended fixes for the code I had already changed the referenced sensors and have had no luck in fixing the problem?
 
  #7  
Old 08-09-2017, 07:57 AM
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You can keep throwing parts at it, or you can take it somewhere for a proper diagnosis.
 
  #8  
Old 08-09-2017, 07:40 PM
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Well today I re-installed the old ECU, used contact cleaner on all of the connections associated with the ECU and sensors I replaced. I also disconnected all ground connections and with a drill power brushed the ground connectors and frame contact area and I applied some dielectric grease to every connection including the grounds.

Test drive resulted in same results? Car stalled after 3.0 miles first time, 0.2 miles second time, 2.0 miles 3rd time, and 0.5 miles 4th time. The car started up again after first stall but I was only able to drive the 0.2 miles then it would not start again until I waited a few minutes.

I checked the battery when I got it back in garage and voltage was 12.8 volts and according to my charger battery was at 84%.

So I am going to try to return the replacement ECU as that is obviously not the problem.

Tomorrow I should get the new coil pack and spark plug wires and I can try changing them out.

I noticed another strange thing today during the test drive as well. When I turned the blinker on it would only blink for about a minute and then it stayed on and would not blink again till I cycled the blinker switch? It was the same for both right and left. I would think the blinker would stay on for a few minutes? I cannot believe this problem with the blinker would be related to the engine stalling?

Again if anyone has any other ideas on what to try next please REPLY.
 
  #9  
Old 08-18-2017, 11:49 PM
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So yesterday I installed a new coil pack and spark plug wires and ran the car for 55 miles and no issues. Fixed right? WRONG! Today it stalled after 5 miles, and at least a half a dozen more times in 1/2 mile or just over 1 mile runs? I noticed the flasher on the blinker is still acting strange too? It works fine and next time in only blinks a few times and stays on? Very strange? Still no service engine light and no codes?
 
  #10  
Old 08-19-2017, 12:15 AM
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What could be common with both the intermittent engine stalling and intermittent blinker issue? Could it be a bad voltage regulator? The very first thing I tried was putting in a new battery? I checked the voltage and it is good and according to my charger battery was at 87% of full charge? Second thing I checked was the alternator and the voltages with and without engine running and electrical system loaded where within expected ranges.

I don't know what voltage readings are when engine stall is triggered? Maybe the voltage regulator is creating the intermittent issues? I would expect a failure of the voltage regulator would result in either high voltage readings constantly or low voltages constantly which would eventually result in a dead battery?
 

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