The drilled and slotted rotors remove the gasses if there is enough produced. Which cars on the road wont or cant produce. Ive said that a thousand times now. They are effiecient if your racing or towing and trying to stop a lot of mass but our cars on the road dont produce temperatures nearly high enough, there fore the drilled and slotted rotors actually hurt out performance. The alternative to ceramic pads are normal compound pads or semi metallic brake pads.

 

then why do so many new cars come with, and are crach tested with, ceramic pads?

 

As moderators/administrators, I would expect you to maintain a certain level of civility.

In this argument, gmansrt10 is weighing heavily on the correct side, and offering you enough information to go do your own research, yet many insist on cutting him/her down. We cannot all know everything, but to be willing to listen and question and research is what makes us learn more every day. Not belittling someone because their view differs from yours.

Baer Brake site FAQ;
http://baer.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.exe/0...14108700026092
or
Stoptech
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml
or
http://www.ssbrakes.com/tech/
or
http://www.galferusa.com/MOTO.html
or Powerslot
http://www.powerslot.com/pages/power_slot.html (click on "learn more")

None of this list drilled as a good idea. Slotted, maybe, under certain circumstances. The point is easily made that drilled is not the best, nore even needed any more.

Vince

 

I honestly cant say why. I just know they have some reputation of scoring rotors. Im guessing they absorb and dissapate heat good? Less dust, cheaper i really have no idea. Or it could be so the dealers get a good amount of work on a consistant basis. Because people have to have brake work done all the time cause they have ceramic pads. Thats sort of a joke but that seems more and more common.

 

Thanks B 52

 

vince, im being civil..believe me. i am tired of the misconception that as a member of the staff i cannot voice my opinion. i have been perfectly cordial in his other threads, and have gone out of my way to research, and answer his questions. but when a new member comes in here boasting about how he has "been trained here and there", like his poop doesnt stink, he should be prepared to defend his statements.

this person came in, and stated that he has this and that certification, and for all we know, he could be a 6th grader with too much time on his hands. i, too, am ASE certified, and have taken the same classes at the well known wyotech in blairsville, PA, which is near latrobe, PA, the home of the rolling rock brewery. i am also a state approved emissions and safety inspector. how do you know that is ture? you cant, and most of it isnt true. i WAS a state approved emissions and safety inspection, but for those who do not know about PA, you may not know what im talking about. my dad has run a performance/general maintenance shop for some 35 years, and before that, he was a five star master tech at a dodge dealership.... and he has no ASE certifications.

he provided no positive backup for his arguement, and neither have you. you have provided back up for your arguement against drilled rotors, but in scanning over those pieces which you listed, they dont support his arguement that "slotted or drilled "race rotors" provide no function, and are actually worse for street use. If it does say that, i missed it, and you are welcome to point it out to me. i originally said that i was aware that drilled rotors do face the risk of cracking, but i reject his arguement that a street car does not benefit at all from "Race" rotors, and i will continue to reject this until he provides some sort of concrete back up for his arguement...and "my teacher said so" is not good back up for an arguement. i never argued with the cracking issue, and i admitted that i have seen that problem when working as a tech, but considering the high cost of the OEM rotors, i am prepared to take my chances, and unlike most people, i will take the proper measures to season my new rotors.

 

My apologies, guess I got off on a tangent.
I took-
“a shame that they didnt have a four week grammar seminar.�
and
“Which school would that be??? I want to sign up for a four week class�
-as a somewhat rude and unneeded response, to the current conversation.

Goes to show that written words can be interpreted differently than spoken ones, eh?

I also have no idea to gmansrt comments in other threads, and will bow to your knowledge there. I see no reference to any type personal certification in this thread.

My experience with ASE certified techs, has been mixed at best, but typically find it is nothing more that a license to learn. However it is good at giving you a solid foundation to build from. In several categories of the automotive world, that class time knowlege is more than I have, and I’m envious.

Vince
ill try to mellow out now... ok?
[&:]

 

im not trying to argue, by any stretch, but rigth now, his opinion on this subject is just that, an opinion...and it will remain an opinion until he provides adequate grounds of evidence, at which point we will know beyong a reasonable doubt that cars that do not create alot of heat cannot benefit from increased heat dispersal.

way back in the day, everyone insisted that the earth was flat, but people such as Pythagoras and Aristotle insisted that it was round, and until Aristotle proved otherwise, it was only his opinion, until he DID prove it otherwise, at which point his opinions became facts. Right now, gmansrt10 is Aristotle, and his "spherical earth theory" is actually "street cars cant benefit from race rotors and ceramic pads are no good", except he should have a far easier time proving his ideas to be true considering the amount of resources available.

that, and they look nice, for literally half the price...

 

Yes I made the comment on a four week school. I would like to know which school it is. A four week course in braking sytems would be nice. I for one would be interested to read the literature on it, we all will have or differing opinons and we need to collect the facts and opinions and make our own decision as to what we feel is best. If someone wants to buy cross drilled and slotted rotors just because they look good then i say go for it it's thier money and who am i to say it's a waste.

 

I'm gonna say this....as a former Dakota owner.....I went thru 2 sets of OEM rotors on my 2000 V6 Dakota like they werent there. I had it looked at by 3 dealerships and finally when a friend of the family, who has more mechanical knowledge then anyone in this current discussion, told me that the problem was the rotors, I know its the truth. I then went and swapped them out to a set of drilled/slotted rotors. I stopped having the problem.

OEM rotors from Daimler are garbage.....at least in the vehicles I've personally seen/experienced. This forum is LITTERED with complaints and problems coming from the OEM stupid rotors....you can sit here and show site after site after site that says their rotors are better or that drilled rotors will fail. It's true, drilled rotors have the potential to fail, and there is less braking surface. That's also a fact. The problem is with most drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic brakes, is that people FAIL to properly break them in. They slap them on and drive it likes it nothing.

ANY mechanical or functional piece of equipment can and will fail if its not properly broken in, lubed, etc etc. They tell you when you get a new tranny/repair, that for the first 500-1000 miles to take it easy and try to drive it smoothly, rather then racing it. This allows for a proper "break-in". They do the same for new engines and there is a PROPER way to break in rotors as well.

Like BadStratRT stated, those sites dont say that drilled/slotted rotors are garbage, they simply say they arent as good as their brand rotor. Also, a FWD manual car can seriously generate heat on those front rotors....

Until anyone in this discussion can show me bonafide proof, that these rotors are worse then the OEM rotors, I think I'll continue to buy them, because I've seen what they'll do compared to the OEM rotors....which means they actually last. I'm in no way saying that there arent other non drilled or non slotted rotors out there that wouldnt be better for my car, but for the price and for the deal I got, it's worth it.

Vince, the guy may be right, he may be partially wrong, but when you come in here spouting off like you are a trained know it all, and then start switching to I took this and I took that....you are gonna catch hell....not to mention Thump just attained his ASE cert a couple months ago....so I'm sure he could weigh in on this alot better then any of us...