Does anyone know how to force clear the ODB codes, and thereby clear the check engine light, on a 2000 Dodge. I did my plugs and wires today. Like a dumba$$ I did not check the gap on the plugs. The plug in the number 3 cylinder was crushed to the point it was almost touching the core. I did not notice this until I started the car and realized that I had a very rough idle and a check engine light.

I fixed the plug but I still have the check engine light. Just to make sure I did not mes anything else up I pulled the ODB codes and got P1684 (Battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts[I replaced the battery a few months ago]) and P0303 (Misfire detected in cylinder #3). With a new plug in #3, and a perfect idle, I thought the check engine ligt would clear. This has not been the case. Can anyone tell me if I can clear the check engine light without taking it to a dealer?

 

every car Ive worked on if I wanted to clear the codes I just unhooked the battery for a while. . .as in, unhook it, walk off, go eat, watch TV for a bit, then go back out and hook the battery back up. that usualy does it on my taco.

now, I'm unsure if this will work on Dodges but it's worth a try. I also remember seeing somewhere that cycling the ignition some will also clear out the codes.

only take this for face value, as this might not work.

 

Tryed cycling the engine and was thinking about disconnecting the battery. I wanted to check the net first to see if there was a better way. Not to mention the wife will not be happy when she has to reprogram all of her radio stations... again.

Thanks for the help.

 

Unplugging your battery for about 60 seconds will work.

Cycling your ignition key does not ever CLEAR trouble codes, it only displays them (only on certain models, and only certain years).

Another option (the one I use) is to unplug the wiring harnesses going to your PCM for about 60 seconds. This will clear the trouble codes, but you won't lose your radio station presets. You only have to unplug the harness that has the power supply (on Dakotas/Rams it's the one closest to the firewall), but I'm not sure which one it is on Neons. If your PCMs are anything like ours (likely), it will be the plug on the LEFT when looking at the plugs from the front of the PCM. But it won't hurt anything if you unplug them all.

 

The best way is to disconnect the battery for 30-60 mins to clear the codes. You can hook a 9 volt battery up to the cigarette lighter with a plug to save the radio stations, but I think this might also back feed to the PCM and hold the codes. Tell her to bite the bullet and reprogram the stations, or look at a Check engine light.

 

It is quite bold of you to state the "BEST WAY" is to disconnect your battery for a rediculously long amount of time. Why do you ATTEMPT to correct my posts with bad information?

"I think this might also back feed to the PCM and hold the codes". You don't even know the outcome of your recommendation?

Remember people, a high post count is no indication of ACTUAL knowledge...

 

Actually, the BEST way to clear codes is to get an OBD II code reader and use that to clear the codes. Most OBD II systems will not clear codes by disconnecting the battery or the PCM harness. I'm not sure if this is the case with Chrysler products. Run by your local Auto Zone. I've heard that they will run your codes for free, and will probably clear them for you as well.

 

Just for the record the best way is to do it with an OBD II, which most of us don't have. The reason I said that the best way is to disconnect the battery as opposed to the PCM cables is because screwing with the PCM cables if you happen to pull a plug out of one of the 100 wires in the 2 plugs, the next thing your gonna be pulling is you hair out of you head, trying to find out why your car is not running right now. and the 9V battery thing has been used for a long time to hold radio stations when you change a battery, I just have never done it when I was trying to clear codes and hold stations. And I am not trying to correct your posts, simply offer another way of doing something. I have worked on cars and trucks for many years and that has nothing to do with my post count, simply just knowledge of mechanics. Oh and SnipeRT, you just an idiot, I was just offering suggestions, you should try to know what you are talking about before you go and open your mouth!!!!!!!!!1

 

I'm not interested in starting a flame war over this, but I'll show you exactly why I even replyed...

I have NEVER heard of somebody purposely waiting an HOUR for their codes to clear. It only takes 60 seconds, MAX. And to start that advice by saying it is the "BEST WAY" of doing it is just too much. Then you follow up by giving him a suggestion to use a 9v battery to save his radio presets during the procedure. This is something that you admit you have NEVER done yourself, and you also admit you don't know the outcome. Then why recommend it? I realize those cheap 9v battery things have been around for decades, but will your PCM clear the codes when your electrical system still has 9v through it? I'm guessing it WON'T but I've never tried it, but my point it that you have never tried it either.

All of this BAD information was given AFTER I already gave yazhierx the CORRECT information he needed. So why even post "your way" of doing things, and claim they are the "BEST"? I'm was just confused and angery. Next time I guess I'll just let you guys spread more rumors about how to fix your vehicles instead of having your questions answered by somebody who has actually DONE what he recommends.

PS, I realize the BEST way to clear TCs is with a scantool, but his question wasn't asking, "Which scantool to buy?", or "Can I use a scantool to clear codes?". His question was "Does anyone know how to force clear the ODB codes?". I think it's safe to assume he doesn't have a scantool, otherwise he wouldn't have asked.

But if you are looking for a good scantool, this is the one I use:
http://www.auterraweb.com/
Normal scantool functions with added datalogging, acceleration timer, and estimated HP & TQ based on vehicle acceleration time and vehicle weight and a bunch of other features.

 

I don't know, maybe my car is different, when I change my O2 sensor cause I got a code, I disconnected the battery for maybe 5 mins, reconnected and started the car and the code was still there. There are many people on here that seem to have the same advice as me on 30-60 mins. On the 9v battery thing, I know it works from personal experience for as I have already stated just changing a battery and not loosing radio stations. I aplogize for not being 100% sure of what would happened if you tried to clear codes and hold radio stations. Personally I would just reprogram the stations, but the guy did not want to loose his wifes stations.