umm haven't gone out there yet, but i have a picture of my engine bay with the brake thing that i know of circled. what about pressure and stuff if i open it up. wont i lose that.



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hmm..it is yellow..sorry..

well, get a flashlight, and see if you can see the fluid level through the container...and compared to a fill line.

 

OK what about pressure, air pockets, and all those goodies in the brake line?

ill go check now.

it is to hard to tell without taking the cap off, which I'm not sure if I'm allowed to do?

 

i wouldnt worry about opening the cap..it shouldnt hurt anything. if youre confident, i can explain to you how to bleed the braking system. its not hard, but it can be messy.

 

o the brake fluid is slightly low, but it also looks really bad. it looks like it is separating between the red and a more milkish red. it wont hurt to learn, so if u don't mind letting me know. thanks for the help.

off to hockey practice, ill be back round 1ish hopefully earlier.

 

i am guessing that you have drums in the rear?

 

There is a tsb on the oil light. The tsb # is 08-36-99 and it involves removing the rubber seal that fills the empty wire cavity in the oil pressure sensor (switch) and installing a vent (vent part #05017800AA), but the vent is not nessessary, just remove the plug. As for the high idle, you should check for any vacuum leaks and also make sure the iac is working properly. You should also check the pcm for dtc's, usually vacuum leaks and sensor failure will set a code.

 

no 4 disc, but no ABS

i got a new pcm under a year ago. what is a IAC? ill look into that TSB. i haven't had the engine light on, so if there was a code wouldn't the light be on?

 

IAC is idle air control...and it does exactly what it says it does..

as for the bleeding the system..if your fluid is really dirty, i would recommend getting the system flushed..it takes a special machine...on the other hand, if it looks ok, you can bleed the system. on each caliper, there is a metal "nozzle" of sorts...generally about a quarter to a half inch long...which should have a little rubber cap on it. that is a bleeder. to do this you will need another person, and a small wrench..usually around 6-10mm.

what you want to do is make sure that all of those valves are closed, but CAN be opened...basically take the wrench and make sure that they can move, then make sure that theyre all tight. have the other person get in the car, and with the engine off have the person pump the brakes. then open the bleeder. if there is air in that portion of the system, some bubbles and "Spitting" will occur before a steady stream of fluid comes out. if just a steady stream of fluid comes out, that wheel is ok. it is important that the person holding the pedal down doesnt let up until you have closed the bleeder, or it will suck air into the system. i should tell you know that brake fluid is coorosive, and it eats paint, so be careful not to get it anywhere near your paint. you will also want to have something to try to catch the fluid as this WILL make a mess.

so basically tell the person to pump three times, until the pedal is hard, then hold it down. open the valve until a steady stream of fluid comes out, then close it, then lift the pedal. if when you first bleed one wheel, some air does come out, keep doing it until a solid stream of fluid comes out right away. after you do this, your fluid will be low, so make sure that you have some brake fluid on hand.

 

OK thanks, that doesn't sound too bad. what color should it be clean and new. is bleeding the brakes taken care of when the system gets flushed. is it expensive to just get the system flushed. how do i check for vacuum leaks and the IAC?