OK i have a 2002 SE with the 2.7L. when i start my car cold it idles at like 1200RPM. when it idles there it makes a clicking noise that kind of sounds like a belt, but the belt is perfectly fine. i don't hear it when actually driving the car, and it isn't as loud or obvious when the car has warmed up. could it be the timing chain? no engine light or anything. it only makes this clicking during winter months. it is very faint during summer months, and my car doesn't idle as high when turned on during summer.

when I'm in drive stopped where the RPMs are at there lowest point the oil light starts to blink. if i give it gas it goes away. it isn't there when I'm driving either. it isn't there when i idle in neutral or park. only when stopped in drive.

next my ****ing mess of a brake system. after i apply my brakes they don't return all the way. they slightly stick. now my brakes lights don't turn off when it does this, and Ive had my battery die before. it stays on when i drive and my front wheels end up black with brake dust. and this is from the Bosch ceramic brake pads. the only way i can get them loose or the light to go out i have to kick the pedal. the weird thing is it is very inconsistent. worst in winter months.

next i ****ed my wheel up. pictures here: https://dodgeforum.com/m_341420/mpag.../tm.htm#341420 (hope I'm not braking rules, if i am delete this whole paragraph.)

Thanks for all your help in advance.

 

nicko, i would venture to say that your clicking noise would either be the valves being a bit noisy until the oil (which is very thick during winter months) works its way entirely through the motor. it may also be noisy injectors, as mine are noisy as hell.

about the oil...has it been changed recently? check the level, and make sure that its ok.

with the brake issue, i am guessing that the fronts are the ones that you believe are sticking right? did you do your brakes yourself?

 

Nick, I would check the oil level, it sounds like its low. IF you take a corner fast does the oil idiot light come on? A would try a thinner oil too, see if the noise goes away, just remember to put thicker oil in before spring/summer. The brakes sound like maybe a bad master cylinder or caliper. Is it both front wheels with brake dust or is one worse than the other? On the wheel there are place out there that straighten aluminum wheels. i know there is a place thats not too far from me that does it, they charged me $50 for each rim I had straighted when i had it done. Or you could just get a new one.

 

OK about the oil. i was told and have read i should use 5-30 all year long. my last oil change was 1200 miles ago with regular **** oil and a ****ty filter. up until that oil change my friend who now moved to college and me always changed my oil with the mobile 1 extended performance 5-30 full synthetic oil and filter. we usually run that gunk **** through it to to counter the oil sludge problem my engine is famous for, but not last time. ill check the oil level, but if it is low those ******** at victory lane screwed me, because I'm not losing or burning oil. i haven't used the extended performance during winter yet because of money, time, and how long Ive had my car. the oil light does not come on WHEN, not if i take a turn fast. i think we are going to get that **** oil out of there on Thursday and get another extended performance in there. i have had the fuel system cleaners run through my system recently which resulted in better response and gas mileage.

both front wheels turn black evenly. my car has always slightly stuck. i put the new pads in myself which didn't help or hurt the situation, it just helped me stop better which has now deteriorated. it is interesting how long it takes for them to lock up when going 70. (late at night i test them on the freeway off ramps). how much would a new master cylinder and installation cost. my parents vans brakes just got messed up and they paid 600 bucks to get them fixed. but there was a different problem where it was chewing up there front drivers rotor.

as for the wheel that is the last of my concern because it is holing its air decently.

Thanks for the help.

 

when you replaced the brake pads, did you lubricate all moving parts? im afraid that casper may be right, and you have a problem with your master cylinder. is your brake fluid full?

 

you might want to try 10w 30 in winter months. 5-30 doesnt do to good in winter months. I use 5-30 cuz even in winter the temperature never gets below 10 degrees. I'd suggest the 10w as a minor change for your winter driving.

also, i got to start checking out mine. I think i might have a dragging brake on the passanger side... that or i need to rotate my tires.

 

what is the difference between all those oil numbers. as for my oil levels, i checked it and it was filled enough, but like to the minimum recommended amount so i put another 3/4 of a quart in there which filled it to max and it still blinks. I'm hoping the problem isn't oil sludge.

as for the brakes we did lube the **** out of everything. how do i check to see if the fluid is full?

 

10w-30 oil is good for most places becuase it is able to run in a very wide band of temperatures. 5w-30 has troubles working at low low temeperatures, like you guys up north know with the low and negative numbers everywhere. 10w-30 is reccommended becuase of its tolerance level, but 5w-30 is just as good (and a bit better imo) but has a harder time and might freeze up in lower temperatures. Your owners manual should show a chart in there about the recommended oil (which would probably be 10w-30).

 

http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/AP...Guide_2004.pdf

according to them who makes the rating and my user manual, 10w-30 is recommended from 0 degrees F and up. 5w-30 is recommended from 100 degrees F and under going into the negatives.

 

nicko..open your hood...on the drivers side of the firewall, there should be a black plastic lid..that is the master cylinder...open it, and see how the level is...there should be a fill line