I have an 87 dodge aries K 2.5 liter SOHC engine, After I got off of work I drove away about 3-4 blocks stop at a stop light and the car died, after this I tried to start my car but it was turning over roughly and would not fire.....

I have replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, the Cap And Rotors, the PVC Valve, The Ignition Coil and the Fuel Filter and air filter. But it still won't fire it turns over but it won't start...

Any Idea's I'm thinking timing belt or fuel pump (but the fuel pump is energizing) so....

Any help I would appreciate it....

 

You are correct in thinking timing belt. How many miles does it have, the timing belt should be changed every 60-80 thousand miles. Easiest way to check is pull out one of the plugs and do a compression test, being its an overhead cam that means there is a cog that the timing belt goes around, this cog is also attached directly to your cam, which opens and closes the valves directly. If the belt failed the cam wont turn, and wont open and close the valves. Do this to all 4 you should have at least 2 with 0 compression, because the intake or exhaust valve will be held open. If this doesnt answer your question let me know and I'll crack open my trusty repair manual.

 

I have taken off the cover of the timing belt and it looks ok, its not broken and it appears that their is no cracks in the belt...so could it still be the belt???? what slipping?????

 

Are you getting spark? Is the fuel getting to the throttle body, this looks just like a carb? If these check out ok, you might even have an issue with the PCM (primary control module) Ks were known for those failing as they aged. Keep me posted and I'll try to get you back on the road, if you are near Albany NY I'd be happy to come by and help you out.

 

yall aint give enouf infor to getcha an anser. does she got any spark?
mans rite about teh computer the power mod by teh battrey can fry is the fuel pump locks up she'll short out and burn up the computer circut that does pump, injecters, and coil. but yall got that coverd wiht the pump is running so you got fuel to the injecter
timing belt could be bad to0. got allot of them that the teeth chucked off on the cranksproket and she still looked good under the cover thatll give no spark cuz the dist aint turning but thats ez to figgur out all yall doo is check the cam sproket and crank over if the sproket moved the belt probly is good.
good to here its got a good rotor cuz i seen them burn thru and coil spark shorted to ground. has spark at coil and not at the plug but i also seen the rotor key shear off so the roter wasnt turning to the right wire it was just kinda freewheeling on the dist shaft

 

Rare,

Thanks for responding to my thread about my starting problem on the 87 dodge aries...I have recently found out that I have a Bad Head gasket/head problem. My compression was read as cyc#1 180, Cyc2 20, Cyc3 40 Cyc4 150. I have found a product called "Steel Seal", www.stealseal.com that gives a $$$ back guarentee to repair cracked head/gasket problems. I have 2 questions for you.

1) Have u ever had and or heard if these additives work???

2) If I take out my spark plugs out cycl 2&3 clean them up and spray starter fluid down the spark shaft and reinstall plugs do you think I could get the car 2 start/fire so I can get the engine warmed up to see if this sealant will work....

Thanks for your answers and No I don't live in albany, NY I'm in st.paul, mn...but thanks for the offer....

 

all I can say about that stuff is "a fool and his money are soon parted"I'm fixing a grand am Quad4 that lost a head gasket. Compression pressures are #1 180, #2 180 #3 60 #4 60. the car actually still sort of ran. If I felt I could dump a $5 can of miracle cure into it instead of the 12hrs it takes to do the job, you better beleive that's what I would be doing today.when I get it apart, I'll see if I can take a picture and send it to you so you can understand how there is no such thing as mechanic in a can

 

ya that stuff aint no good. and it defiently wont work for yalls problm cuz that gasket isblow between cyl from what yall said and that sealer junk is for like a water leak and it def dont work for head gaskets no matter what they say. that goo aint gonna hold back 180 psi pressure or the 1000nds of pound of pressure duing combuston i like doing them hg. the 2.2 and 2.5s were gravy to do if its for yerself then just slip and slide takes me an hr to do $15 for the gasket, some rad fluid and an oil change. if i do one for a custmer then i have the head milled so she's perfect

 

I dont recommend any of those "fixes in a can" either. The best thing to do is replace the gasket, you might even want to take the head to a machine shop and have them check if the head is cracked, it is aluminum and a hair line crack wont show up to the naked eye.
The nice thing about the 2.5 everything on and around the head is pretty much out in the open. I cant say how easy it is, because I am babied, I work at a garage and have access to the proper tools and equipment, and reference material. I wish I had a scanner I would scan the section in my repair manual and post it here. If you need the info I could even get the info from All Data and drop it in the mail to you. PM me your address if you want the info. All Data is detailed with diagrams and step by step instructions.

 

1st thanks for all your advice I didnot use the "Head Gasket Seal additive", I have spent this week replacing the head gasket and installed a used cyclider Head alot of work but well worth it via having a shop get the $$$.

But my "new problem" is that as I drive the car the Tempature gauge Bounces from High to med and it seem that when I give it gas or when I stop the the guage moves but I have also see it move while driving...A friend of mine thinks that the thermastat is reverse...But I told him that the with the housing it cant be reverse...anyways any on have any Ideas????

Remember it a '87 Dodge Aries K 2.5 liter SOHC engine

Thanks for any help.....