[hr]





Ok this is what happened today... Changed plugs with stock plugs purchased at Advance Auto. Used same wires that were on car. Test drove and car went crazy... When you go into boost the car jerks and then you hear a few really fast loud backfires and gurgles... I have changed the gap several times (on all 4 plugs at once)to 35, 45, 52, and 62 because 62 waswhat the stock gap was at,andimade sure everything was tight. I didn't mess with anything else and was not having these problems before changing the plugs... Although while changing the plugs there was a rubber piece in #3 cylinder stuck around the spark plug which made the plug hard to get out it was from where the guy replaced the plugs before me left it inthere. I eventually got this rubber piece out with a small hook and then the plug came out fine... Continued to change the plugs without replacing this small rubber piece since none of the other plugs/wires had it???? well i was told it was the wrong plugs but they were the stock ones so thats out, the wires and i ordered some magnecores last night, or the coil but the stock coil is good so i thought.[/align]

 

which plugs are they? many of these auto parts stores claim that they have the oem plugs and they're not correct.

secondly, stock gap is .050, not .062, and even .050 is way large for most cars. bring it down to .045 and take it from there.

 

if your still mostly stock. then about .045 to .05
mine i gapped at .040 and im mostly stock
but if your running a bit more power, i read that the spark can actually suffer unless you gap even closer


edit: thanks psi, i would hate to see someone trygapping their plugs far enough to stick their finger under, lol

 

well i tried different gaps but none worked. i dont think it was the gap because i put the old plugs back in just to see and the car was still dying and sputtering. it sounded like a machine gun going off under my hood like popopopopopopopop until igot out of boost. the plugs are champion 3570.it just sounds like the cylinders are getting compression but there is no spark or anything so its sounds like the cylinders are just hitting. its somthing to do with either the wires coil or plugs. or all of em but everything worked before we changed the plugsand its idleing fine and driving alright with a little studder when you take off so i have no clue how it could be wires if they are still working. should i wait for the wires or just go ahead and take it to dodge?

 

why is everyone so rushed to take their cars to dodge? they have even less of a clue how to fix these cars than we do.

get a decent set of plugs in there not those champion pos's and change your wires asap. you can get a set of mopar 8.5mm wires from the dealer for cheap and throw in some ngk 4306's and see how it is. start with the obvious stuff then more on to more complicated things......

 

gap .5?? i'm confused??

 

alright thanks psi, i think my wires will be here later today or tommorow. i have to go to napa in cinci to get the plugs because nobody carries em around here and i cant wait for the plugs. its backfiring, and it feels like the motor is just seizing up when it goes into boost. i wish my stuff would just work. ive been having problems with boost leaks too and i keep fixing em but they keep coming back.

 

i think he meant .050, many people forget the first "0"

 

no i mean gaping and stuff like that.. how do u do it and whats the difference??????

 

when you get new plugs, even if they are supposed to be pregapped, you need to check the gapping.

the 'gap' is the distance between the electrode and the end prong. this is where the arc occurs and where the 'spark' actually happens.correct gapping is vital to the proper functioning of the spark plug:


there are more accurate alternatives, but this is the cheapest and most common one, you can get one at any autoparts store for like a buck: