I just hit the 3000 mile mark, and its time to do her first oil change. My question is should i make the switch over to mobil 1? I have heard alot of people say you need to break the motor in. Yet the mobil one says

MYTH: You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to Mobil 1.
REALITY: You can start using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ in new vehicles at any time, even in brand-new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is original equipment (it is installed at the factory)

This is according to the www.mobil1.com website.

What are your thoughts and what weights should I use?

 

It was true with older cars and their looser built engines that you had to wait at least X amount of miles before switching over to synthetic. But todays engines are built to tighter tolerances and can go straight to synthetics. The Viper comes straight from the manufacturer with Mobil 1 already in it.

 

Ive use mobil 1 since the first oil change. In the maual and somewhere else I read it said to use 5x-30 in stead of 10. I used 10 for both changes. Since I'm in va now and the winter is coming I might use a different grade but it will still be mobile 1. I have to read the manual on the winter specs.

 

I posted this earlier, but I will say it again. Everyone IU have talked to about mobil 1 says that it DOES NOT come in the SRT-4 from the factory, which you all know...

BUT, Dad and I found a way to test synthetic oil vs conventional oil... Spray a little castrol purple stuff/superclean on a drop of motor oil, it will turn synthetic oil a very rich and obvious purple color, conventional oil stays the same.

Anyway, I took my valve cover off to paint it a month or two after I bough my SRT, and when I sprayed purple stuff on the inside of the valve cover, it turned PURPLE!!!

rather people agree with me or not, my SRT came with stnthetic in it!!!

 

NICE!!! Don't remember that post but good find.

 

So you think 5-30 would be good. What type of filter?

 

I've been using the KnN filter. It's almost the same price as a regular filter. Works good for me. I think 5-30 would be fine. It's what I'm gonna get.

 

Heck, I'll go the 0W-30 synthetic (amsoil now, but maybe redline later) to prevent the "drystarts" where most engine wear happens...

 

Can you elaborate Please?

 

the manual recommends 5 weight- if you look there's a temp chart. generally, the colder the wx, the lower the weight you want to use, b/c the higher weights are thicker. thinner coats the parts faster on startup, so you don't have as much wear, but it also breaks down more quickly as the temp rises. the thicker weights won't get to the moving parts as quickly, but work better in high temperatures.