yeah- it's funny. i don't mind explaining it though- that's how i learned, after all!

 

i heard BOV arent good for the srt-4 such as they arent good for the EVO....they dont kick in right away and it actually works aganist you, and you prob loose a lb of boost from it....my best bet is not to have a BOV ITS JUST FOR SOUND!!! lol but hey some people like that or even think its "NOS" LMAO so if the car doesnt come stock with a BOV best bet is not to add one in...

 

A SRT-4 has a stock BOV from the factory that vents back into the engine. The Mopar performance BOV vents to the atmosphere, hence the sound.....

 

the evo, sti, and wrx have a mass air set up, and the srt does not. those cars require a reciculating valve, due to the sensors. the srt does not require this. thus a bov is fine on our cars.

bov's actually they do a lot more than just make noise. the point of a bov is to release beackpressure from the system when you let off the accelerator. excess back pressure causes stress on the turbine and this can cause damage over time. a bov releases that pressure, thus prolonging the life of the turbo by allowing the pressure to vent into the atmosphere.

a bov is also not supposed to go off immedietly. if you are under wot it should not go off at all. a properly set bov will vent at 0 pressure (meaning not in vacuum or boost), and only when you let off the gas. you don't lose any boost from instaling a bov. unless you're driving a evo or another mass air car, then you will because the system needs the pressure to function properly.

 

PSI CHICK,

would the SRT be considered a "speed density" car then if not mass air?? I know Mustangs in the late 80's have the two distinctions... speed density vs. the newer mass air setup.

 

And if you want to boost over 18 PSI (or whatever the max the stock surge valve can hold), then you might want to consider an aftermarket BOV as well.

 

Well, I guess my BOV is not "properly set" because it goes off at about -5. What I really like is the fact you can wind up a gear, let off the gas, get the "sound" and do it all over again in a matter of seconds. It really freaks out and confuses other drivers who aren't used to it.

I've even used it to "zap" a few "ladies of the evening" who were still out when I was driving in to work....letting them know they'd better be off the street in 20-30 minutes when I hit the street.....

 

Stage 1 features:
"Optimized calibration for the MOPAR Performance Blow Off Valve conversion kit (sold separately)."

Stage 2 features:
"Optimized calibration for the Mopar Performance Blow-Off Valve. (Sold separately). The Stage 2 kit has improved the functionality, and the audible performance of the integrated re-circulation valve with the BOV conversion kit in mind."

The BOV is controlled by a seloniod, you can trace the pink hose to the #3 on top of your airbox(if factory). When you have your foot on the gass and let off the TPS(throdle position sensor) tells the PCM(computer)this, which in turn singals the selonoid, and you hear the BOV doing its thing. With Stage0 kits(stock) It does it a lot...and i have seen mine do it under vacumm...with Stage 1...as it says in the mopar adds...the PCM is recallibrated to only open when at least 2 psi of boost is present...and i think, though not sure its 5psi with the Stage 2 kits...haven't read anything on S3...On the stock BOV i will personally say it will hold up to 22psi before it starts to leak....problem is that under these conditions when it vents and you hit 22 psi again it will not seal back up 100%..it will leak....i actually had to count to three in my head before gassing it...till i tried several other BOV's...I am currently useing a (don't think i can say the name...lol) BOV. The good thing you can do with the stock BOV and mandatory with a aftermarket BOV, is to tee into the throddle body, plugging the pink line, that away it will not go off all the time..only when there is enough pressure to induce a vacumm when the throdle plate snaps shut....taking your foot off at high RPM's.

Here is a diagram that has been aroud some.........it is not mine and im not calling it mine....the powers that be can delete it if they want....You can tell and i have done this.....most of the vacumm lines are removed as are the seloniods.....you will notice it has a manual boost controller connected...this is the same with a electronic boost controller....you can see how the BOV is connected to the main vacumm source at the throdle body.

 

dusty - just because your boost gauge reads -5 doesn't mean that's what's actually going on under the hood. the stock guage is notoriously innacurate, and there is a slight lag between the reading and the actual pressure. the mopar bov is not adjustable, so as thus you are at the mercy of whatever the computer wants it to do, as it changes depending on stage. on aftermarket bov's you can adjust them to release at a certain point. on adjustable bov's the ideal setting should be at neutral, however this can be difficult to achieve.

srt_ya - yes, we have a speed density system.

 

I could believe a factory boost gauge being off by quite a bit, but these are great quality Auto Meter Pro Comp Ultra Lite boost gauges that are known for quality and accuracy. My Shelby Z's factory boost gauge was pure crap that would read 15 psi or better even though the Mopar PCM limited it to 13 psi max.