Stop your Mopar BOV from leaking!
Legend
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RE: Stop your Mopar BOV from leaking!
Andy how stupid are you gonna make yourself look before you give up? How is you piggy backed Injectors doin? Yes Andy has an srt-4 with 8 fuel injectors that puts out 600HP and does the 1/4 mile in 9 secs. Its the worlds fastest SRT-4. Oh and by the way I have a Geo metro that runs 7's!!!!!!!!!!!
R.I.P. Dusty (Retired Moderator
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Alamosa, Colorado (200 yards from the Rio Grande)
RE: Stop your Mopar BOV from leaking!
Andy, dude, save what self esteem you have left and don't drag your family members into this. Better yet, spend some time with them and put the BS here on DF to rest......
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: United States
RE: Stop your Mopar BOV from leaking!
ORIGINAL: glhs837
I DID read the entire post. There is NO mention of either your brother, but you did list mods as shown here
"S1, large FMIC,mopar bov,2.5 mopar cat back exhaust,agp wga,greedy e-01 emanage...".
As far as this
"and he was having problems, and did not want me to tee or modify from stock...cause dad told me if i void the warranty i get to flip the bill when he breaks it"
"not modify from stock"? What, the surge valve vac lines are the ONLY thing left stock? I see both a WGA and a electronic boost controller. Either of which are more likely to cause warranty problems than a vac line tee. How is that EO1 plumbed in, anyway?
My point here is that you talk about the benefit of this mod for stock cars, but you don't have it applied to a stock car, unless that will surface now that I have asked.
As far as the time it takes to equalize the boost, please explain that 5 second thing. So when I hit the gas, I have to wait for five seconds before the boost equalizes? I want everyone to do a potato count now.
One potato
Two potato
Three potato
Four potato
Five potato
Now take a drive and floor it at 3200 rpms hold your foot down for that long. Bet you have to shift before you get to five potatoes. Also bet your boost gauge settles long before that. If not, you most likely DO have a boost leak, but from loose clamps on the pressure pipes, NOT from your surge valve (the real name of the BOV). I expect to have actual test results here fairly soon from a pressure test.
But until then, andy, riddle me this. How much force does it take to compress the surge valve spring?
I DID read the entire post. There is NO mention of either your brother, but you did list mods as shown here
"S1, large FMIC,mopar bov,2.5 mopar cat back exhaust,agp wga,greedy e-01 emanage...".
As far as this
"and he was having problems, and did not want me to tee or modify from stock...cause dad told me if i void the warranty i get to flip the bill when he breaks it"
"not modify from stock"? What, the surge valve vac lines are the ONLY thing left stock? I see both a WGA and a electronic boost controller. Either of which are more likely to cause warranty problems than a vac line tee. How is that EO1 plumbed in, anyway?
My point here is that you talk about the benefit of this mod for stock cars, but you don't have it applied to a stock car, unless that will surface now that I have asked.
As far as the time it takes to equalize the boost, please explain that 5 second thing. So when I hit the gas, I have to wait for five seconds before the boost equalizes? I want everyone to do a potato count now.
One potato
Two potato
Three potato
Four potato
Five potato
Now take a drive and floor it at 3200 rpms hold your foot down for that long. Bet you have to shift before you get to five potatoes. Also bet your boost gauge settles long before that. If not, you most likely DO have a boost leak, but from loose clamps on the pressure pipes, NOT from your surge valve (the real name of the BOV). I expect to have actual test results here fairly soon from a pressure test.
But until then, andy, riddle me this. How much force does it take to compress the surge valve spring?
And the answer is.....double sided..the spring itself takes approx 2.2 lbs(stock) of pressure to compress fully, by its self...the surge valve takes approx 5 psi of boost to be forced open.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 710
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From: United States
RE: Stop your Mopar BOV from leaking!
Actually, your closer than I thought you would be
It's actually only 1lb of force, as measured with a Chatillion force meaurement tool. Actually a slightly older model than this, but the tool is at work and I'm not.
So, Dodge put a valve they knew would leak on the car?
Come'on, use your brain.
Now really thing about this next part
15 psi + 1lb spring > (thats greater than) 15 psi
500 psi + 1lb spring STILL > 500 psi
Becuase there is equal pressure applied to BOTH SIDES. Equal presure + a spring > just pressure. It's called science, try it.
Think of it as a scale.
5,000lbs + 1oz > 5,000lbs EVERY TIME!!!!!!!!
Oh, and I will note you asked a vendor over there about help with your brothers car and the WGA you bought. But the mod list over there didn't include the super cool EO1.
And of course none of this speaks to your assertion that this would help a stock car. Typical Andy, trying to shift the question while ingoring the parts that you can't answer
BTW, spend less on mods and take a course on how to take a picture. You can practice on all the mods you and your brother have, like the EO1
It's actually only 1lb of force, as measured with a Chatillion force meaurement tool. Actually a slightly older model than this, but the tool is at work and I'm not. So, Dodge put a valve they knew would leak on the car?
Come'on, use your brain.
Now really thing about this next part
15 psi + 1lb spring > (thats greater than) 15 psi
500 psi + 1lb spring STILL > 500 psi
Becuase there is equal pressure applied to BOTH SIDES. Equal presure + a spring > just pressure. It's called science, try it.
Think of it as a scale.
5,000lbs + 1oz > 5,000lbs EVERY TIME!!!!!!!!
Oh, and I will note you asked a vendor over there about help with your brothers car and the WGA you bought. But the mod list over there didn't include the super cool EO1.
And of course none of this speaks to your assertion that this would help a stock car. Typical Andy, trying to shift the question while ingoring the parts that you can't answer
BTW, spend less on mods and take a course on how to take a picture. You can practice on all the mods you and your brother have, like the EO1
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 710
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From: United States
RE: Stop your Mopar BOV from leaking!
The below is a quote attributed to a PVO rep.
"The main difference between the stock surge valve and an aftermarket BOV is that the stock is an active setup and the aftermarket is passive. We can control the source of the pressure to the surge valve with the solenoid. The two sources are the manifold and the compressor nozzle. The nozzle is the highest pressure source available in the entire system.
It is always higher than the manifold due to flow losses through the hoses and intercooler. The nozzle pressure is also the same pressure that is trying to open the surge valve. When the surge is commanded to close, the solenoid switches to the nozzle source (blue line) and the backside of the diaphragm is pressurized to the same pressure as the front side.
This causes a zero differential across the diaphragm. The surge valve is then held shut by the spring. In order for the surge valve to leak, a 4-5 psi pressure delta must be present. (You can test this pressure by removing the pink line from the surge valve, slowly increase boost, and listen for leakage with the Mopar BOV.) When the surge valve is commanded to open, the solenoid switches to the manifold source (black line).
This provides a vacuum which compresses the spring in the surge valve and allows the inlet and outlet of the compressor to be connected. The reason the manifold line supplies only vacuum and not boost is because the surge valve is never commanded to open unless the throttle is closing. "
"The main difference between the stock surge valve and an aftermarket BOV is that the stock is an active setup and the aftermarket is passive. We can control the source of the pressure to the surge valve with the solenoid. The two sources are the manifold and the compressor nozzle. The nozzle is the highest pressure source available in the entire system.
It is always higher than the manifold due to flow losses through the hoses and intercooler. The nozzle pressure is also the same pressure that is trying to open the surge valve. When the surge is commanded to close, the solenoid switches to the nozzle source (blue line) and the backside of the diaphragm is pressurized to the same pressure as the front side.
This causes a zero differential across the diaphragm. The surge valve is then held shut by the spring. In order for the surge valve to leak, a 4-5 psi pressure delta must be present. (You can test this pressure by removing the pink line from the surge valve, slowly increase boost, and listen for leakage with the Mopar BOV.) When the surge valve is commanded to open, the solenoid switches to the manifold source (black line).
This provides a vacuum which compresses the spring in the surge valve and allows the inlet and outlet of the compressor to be connected. The reason the manifold line supplies only vacuum and not boost is because the surge valve is never commanded to open unless the throttle is closing. "
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 448
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From: United States
RE: Stop your Mopar BOV from leaking!
ORIGINAL: glhs837
This causes a zero differential across the diaphragm. The surge valve is then held shut by the spring. In order for the surge valve to leak, a 4-5 psi pressure delta must be present.
This causes a zero differential across the diaphragm. The surge valve is then held shut by the spring. In order for the surge valve to leak, a 4-5 psi pressure delta must be present.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
From: United States
RE: Stop your Mopar BOV from leaking!
" The nozzle is the highest pressure source available in the entire system.
The nozzle pressure is also the same pressure that is trying to open the surge valve. When the surge is commanded to close, the solenoid switches to the nozzle source (blue line) and the backside of the diaphragm is pressurized to the same pressure as the front side.
This causes a zero differential across the diaphragm. The surge valve is then held shut by the spring. In order for the surge valve to leak, a 4-5 psi pressure delta must be present.
The reason the manifold line supplies only vacuum and not boost is because the surge valve is never commanded to open unless the throttle is closing. "
The nozzle pressure is also the same pressure that is trying to open the surge valve. When the surge is commanded to close, the solenoid switches to the nozzle source (blue line) and the backside of the diaphragm is pressurized to the same pressure as the front side.
This causes a zero differential across the diaphragm. The surge valve is then held shut by the spring. In order for the surge valve to leak, a 4-5 psi pressure delta must be present.
The reason the manifold line supplies only vacuum and not boost is because the surge valve is never commanded to open unless the throttle is closing. "
So the point is, that WITH THE PRESSURE EQUAL, THE SPRING RULES. And the pressure is ALWAYS EQUAL. ZERO DIFFERENTIAL, get it? Meaning NO DIFFERENCE.
The 4-5 psi pressure delta referred to is NEVER PRESENT!!!!!!! Not on a stock controlled car.
Read the above enough times to understand it. If it never make sense, feel free to end yourself.
As far as your car being faster, who knows, maybe it is. That makes no difference to this conversation. But I will note I have never lied about my times, and have witnesses and slips to prove my times. How about you?
R.I.P. Dusty (Retired Moderator
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 24,471
Likes: 0
From: Alamosa, Colorado (200 yards from the Rio Grande)
RE: Stop your Mopar BOV from leaking!
glhs837, I've been watching Andy since December of last year, and he has yet to post a time slip or any verifiable evidence of his claims to a world record setting SRT-4 run. I doubt we'll ever see one. He's nothing but a novelty, albeit a sad one....