Thanks for the tire tip doof432, what about the wheel hop????

 

Motor mounts or at least inserts, will do a great deal to help with the hop.

I paid 25$ for a set of prothane race hardness and - what a difference. Since they are really only torsion strut mounts and the weight of the engine is primarily on the mounts(on either side of the engine) this is an extremely easy job.

Ideally, a set of new mounts altogether would be best(I've seen some real trick machined aluminum ones on ebay today) but 200$ is hard to swallow when inserts do almost as much to help and there is so much to spend $ on.

And welcome to the site.

 

wheel hop would have to get better, i do not have any yet, but am fixing to order some... The last/only time i raced my car 1/4 mile, i let the pressure in my front tires down to 22 pounds. That was not enough to really squish the sidewalls, so it did not do any damage, and I never spun the stock tires again by doing that. So for driving it, i would not even think of that, but for racing, do it.
As for the MT's, you would probably only run about 25-28 lbs of pressure max in those since they are slicks, so there should be no wheel hop at all on a stock one, but for your... With a stage one, that should eliminate tire spin, stage 2??? maybe maybe not, depends how hard you drive. If you get slicks and motormount inserts, then you will be fixed up.

 

inserts don't get the job done once you start running any sort of real power. i have them too, and there were just fine until stage 2. then i might as well had nothing in the car. there's no comparison between an insert and a solid mount, the solid mounts are 100 times better than an insert and are well worth the money. i'm just waiting on the release of the new dogbones and i'll have a set. they told me sunday that the new ones should be out in a week or two, they decided to change the design of the poly on it.

if you really want to eliminate wheel hop, get the new traction set up from psi-fi. it's made a huge difference in my car, both with street tires and dr's. wheel hop is about 90% gone. once i get the solid mounts and some co's it should be 100% gone. i'm waiting for stage 2 of their set up to address the torque steer issue!!!

as for slicks, 22 lbs? no way, i run 16 lbs on my dr's! i would suggest starting at around 17 lbs and working down to see where your car launches best at. many people run 10-11 lbs, and this seems to work well for srt's.

 

I agree with you about the solid mounts, but I drive this daily 60 miles for work. I would imagine the NVH factor must go thru the roof with the solid mounts. As far as stage 2, I am a service manager at a Dodge dealer, and I've seen some headgasket and clutch problems with that Mod. Have you seen the CO2 N-TERcooler set up from
Nitrous Express. When I was out of high school, I had a 85 Daytona Turbo Z. I put EVERYTNG I could find except nitrous in that car. ( It ran consistent 13.0's ) After I intercooled that car, I had it out on a winter night, about 5 degrees out. That cold air added a good 25-50 hp. I actually rigged washer nozzles on my intercooler with it's own water tank and pump. That set up works crappy. ( I've done just about everything with turbo cars in the eightys that you people do now, except I had to design and engineer it myself.) Anyway, hell with stage 2. I'm gonna freeze my intercooler to 60 below with this co2 set up! I also need to piggyback an electronic boost controller for a constant 14psi, then let the factory control take over from there. I'd bet I'll see 40hp. If you see a silver SRT with a freak glacier hanging from the frt end, it's me! I'll let you know how it works. By the way, I saw you car in R.I. last summer, it's nicely done. Ther are not many aftermarket wheels I like on these cars, but yours look hot.

 

there isn't that much of a virbration issue with solid mounts. the only time if can be annoying is when you run the a/c. other than that it's not a problem. there are people with big turbos and solic mounts that drive their car every single day and they don't have an issue. i guess it's also all about what your tolerance level is and what you're willing to give up to go faster. hell i'd drive around in a fully caged car if that's what it took. wait, i already do that in the mustang lol. it's all about what you want.

i know that co2 ic set ups work, but i would never put it on my car. i've seen it too many times that the co2 gets sucked into the intake and you end up with a nice and cold fmic but the engine is startving for oxygen. not that i'm saying that an ic sprayer is all that great, in fact i've never even used mine with s2. in all, ic sprayers aren't really worth it in general imo.

as for the headgasket/clutch issues that you've seen with stage 2, all i can say then is that the people who installed it probably had no clue what they were doing, and the people who owned the cars were morons and tried to futz with it. of the however many hundreds or thousands of people that have stage 2, no one has yet reported a headgasket problem. in fact, no one i can recall has ever reported a headgasket problem on the car period. remember, this is not the stratus motor, nor is it the old 2.0. this motor does not suffer from that problem. as for the clutch, well people need to learn how to drive. the stock clutch is good for like 300hp. stage 2 doesn't bring you quite there. unless people are riding the clutch or got a bad clutch from the factory, it shouldn't be a problem. sounds like your srt owners need a lesson on their cars....

why do you think you need a ebc and piggy back for a consistant 14lbs? you should see that stock. and a wga and mbc could get you there for a hell of a lot less money. $200 and you can have 18 lb spikes holding 16 to redline. no need for a stand alone for that. if you're gonna spend the money on an emanage or ppq or something, at least aim for a little higher levels! lol

you were at the rhode island bbq? what car was yours? there were so many people there, it's hard to remember who was who!!!

 

the stage one in my car spikes 15-16 psi , I mostly see 12-13, especially after 4500 rpm. I was going to pu a mechanical valve in place of the factory valve, and set it to 16 while just leaving the stock solenoid plugged in to the PCM. But my experience in the past......depending on ambient temp, baro press, etc, a mechanical system
can vary alot. Example, 15psi on an 80 degree day, is like 18 when it's twenty out. I want consistant control of pressure. Remember, I use it everday. If I want to run an eleven second quarter, I'll just hop on my R6!

I saw your car at Colt State park in Bristol. I didnt meet you. My car was just a baby then,(SRTGRL called it a baby because it only had 1500 miles.) She's got that giant turbo hanging off the back of that motor!

e-mail me any time.......service@baldhill.com

 

it is true that when the ecu is controling boost you'll see different levels dependant on pressure. but when you use an aftermarket wga you take away control of the boost levels from the ecu and you see consistant levels rather than the fluctuating ones. you can set the pressure to what you'd like to see, and the ecu doesn't have control anymore. that's why there's so much discussion about the pink, blue, and green lines when hooking up an aftermarket wga. these are direct vacuum lines that control boost. each line gives you different response, and allow the wga/ebc to control boost rather than the ecu. that's why you don't need a piggy back in this car. can you run one, sure. there are defineate advantages to it. but it's not necessary to see consistant boost levels, that's my point.