O.K. I finally got some time from work to add some mods--the Walbro 255 pump and the Fuel Pressure Regulator mod from PT-Performance (also put in dogbones and tranny mount but no probs there). Normally I would've done the pump first and the fpr mod after a couple days being it's a fuel related item, but I didn't and am having problems.... Car started right up and I took it around the block at my shop, everything seemed good. My AFR was much richer, but also seemed to bounce around a lot. I figured no prob. once I raised boost a little with MBC. On the way home same thing, so I stopped to fill up and when I tried to start back up it wouldn't run. I let pressure off at the fuel rail and tried again--started right up but stumbles and running rich. I have a Dtec FC installed, but haven't done anything with the maps. Called AGP Friday and they said the maps they give you, only if you buy the Dtec from them, are not for sale.I'm pretty sure there's just too much fuel / pressure givenfor the Stage 1 pcmto properlyhandle, but I don't have much else to go on as far as setting up/tuning with the Dtec. Any help will be much appreciated

 

i'm not sure what you're looking for here. tune the car, that's about it. go do some 3rd gear pulls, get your a/f's in the proper range, and call it a day. and if you're smart you'll take out that fp pt mod, that damn thing does nothing but cause problems and blow fuel pumps.

 

That's what I want to do is tune the car, but I'm not clear on setting up the map in the Dtec. I understand WHAT to do, but not sure HOW to do it.So you're saying I should base my map on 3rd gear pulls; that's fine I'll do it. And I know everything has to be done in small increments.But whatabout all the rpm points and load ranges in the map? Wouldn't 3rd gearbeone load range? Sorry I can't better explain my question, and I'll get another stock regulator asap.

 

you only need to tune at wot (100%), don't worry about anything else. 3rd gear is the easiest to street tune with simply because it's rather hard to get to the top of 4th gear lol. if you tune in 3rd and leave it a little on the rich side you'll be fine in 4th then. focus primarily on the 3k-6k range, that's your powerband. if you don't have your wideband connected to your dtec, or you don't have it hooked up to a computer to data log just bring somone in the car with you. have them watch your a/f's as you call out rmps and you can see where you need to pull fuel. keep your a/f's around 11.3-11.5 in 3rd to give you some room to play in 4th. if you're on stock injectors and stock fuel system (other than the pump) you're not going to have to pull much fuel at all, maybe 5% at the top.

 

Thanks PSI, I'll try tuning after I replace the regulator, and so long as I didn't screw anything else up. Seems to be getting much worse as far as the car running--just sputters a lot and getting very rough idle. Tried going to a local auto parts store today hopingthe regulatorwould be available, but no luck gonna try to find one online.BTW I do have stock injectors--would getting larger ones be of any use?

 

probably not honestly, at least not at this point. if you're going to upgrade the turbo then yes you'll need bigger injectors obviously but for now the s1's should be ok (assuming of course that your a/f's are good and you're not running crazy boost). if you do want to upgrade the injectors you'll need some other stuff(like a return line so you can adjuststatic fuel pressure).i would suggest getting a return line anyway though, it really helps with drivability and allows you to fine tune the system, and also lessens the load on the injectors. on your current set up i would venture to guess you're running somewhere in the 90-100% injector duty cycle, which is pretty high. a return line can bring that back down, which also will put less stress on your fuel pump.

 

O.K. got any recommendations? I see a lot or return line setups at the various vendor sites, but not sure how far to go with them. My goal with the car is a 300hp daily driver on stock turbo;alsogot a MaxxfabO2 housing and downpipe on order(hopefully here next week). I spoke with PTP today and they said therough idle is normal for the 05's and should go away after a few more days--the PCM has to learn?? I ordered a stock regulator anyway and will change it,so for now my baby's staying at the shop! Thanks again for the help!

 

the ecu's do have to learn, but they do that in about 5 minutes lol. a rough idle for a few days isn't normal. you can't just be adjusting fuel pressure ona stock system, things will get screwed up. this pt mod thing has cause numerous problems from what i've seen, it's just not worth it. get a real return line with a fpr and go from there. and even with a return line static fuel pressure should be at 58psi, which is stock level. once you throw on bigger injectors you can lower the pressure.

as for return lines, basically they're all the same for the most part. if you don't want to replace the rail you can go with the agp set up. it's regulated before the rail and doesn't require a schrader vavle. if you are getting a new rail and have a valve, the aaronneon kit is nice (just got that myself). it's regulated after the rail. there's also the red star kit and the ripp performance kit, which are both regulated before the rail. any will do the job, it's more about what parts you want and your preference as to before or after regulation.