stroking an srt4
Bore - I don't see why it couldn't be done, other than the fact that I hear the cylinder walls are prety thin to begin with. Stroke - I would guess that this is much less reccomended, since we have a 101 mm stroke. You could probably stroke it - but I would bet that means bye bye to the redline. Probably have to r/l it much lower because of the piston speed. Maybe good springs and seats...would help, but I don't think they would help enough.
A bored out srt-4 would be real cool though. Then again, we already have more torque than we can handle with the fwd.
I'll be interested to hear if anyone has done this.
A bored out srt-4 would be real cool though. Then again, we already have more torque than we can handle with the fwd.
I'll be interested to hear if anyone has done this.
If you got the money, everything is possible. Now I'm not saying anything here with authority based on my very limited knowledge of this particular engine but I know a little of such things. I'm supposing that you are on a budget and would want the cheapest or most cost effective way to increase the engine size so you choose to bore the existing cylinders a sane amount cause you cant afford to resleeve the engine and a siamese bore mega block is not available yet. Nor are there any fabled thickwall "industrial" 2.4's. (Not that you'd want a very heavy lump of iron sitting on the front wheels) . If you go say, .030 over, you will have increased the engine size by about 3 cubic inches or like .1 liter.......wow huh?
Now how do you stroke an engine? Basically, to my knowledge, this is an already stroked 2.0. It was done to help out the 2.0's lack of torque and would make it a better van engine. Hence, the rather low redline. The factory uses a different crank. I don't think there are any ready made stroker cranks out there yet (I could very well be wrong) but you could get one made I suppose. ( very expensive) The low cost approach is getting the stock rod journals offset ground a few thousandths MAYBE .010 or .015 and filling the space with a thicker rod bearing to use the stock rods or by getting custom rods to fit and that will net you maybe 10 cubic inches or .2 liter and now you have a weaker crank which will not help the redline situation. You will also now have piston travel issues maybe necessitating custom made pistons. (sometimes you can find a rod from another engine that has the matching smaller big end and as a bonus a shorter overall length) A slightly more expensive way is getting the crank welded up and reground for a slightly larger gain but by doing so they may be able to offset ground the crank with stock size journals and even radius them which puts the strength back in it. How big? I dont know. How much stroke can the crank case physically hold before clearance becomes an issue? I dont know but with todays engines, I'm guessing not very much at all. The best bet for stroking is a custom crank. Does anyone make one? I don't know. If you were to do a large overbore and a case limited stroke increase, I would guess you could get around 3.0 liters but you would have spent a lot of money to do it. Would it be worth it? For that kind of money, I'd put another 2.4 in the rear and have AWD like that Renault from a few years ago.
Now how do you stroke an engine? Basically, to my knowledge, this is an already stroked 2.0. It was done to help out the 2.0's lack of torque and would make it a better van engine. Hence, the rather low redline. The factory uses a different crank. I don't think there are any ready made stroker cranks out there yet (I could very well be wrong) but you could get one made I suppose. ( very expensive) The low cost approach is getting the stock rod journals offset ground a few thousandths MAYBE .010 or .015 and filling the space with a thicker rod bearing to use the stock rods or by getting custom rods to fit and that will net you maybe 10 cubic inches or .2 liter and now you have a weaker crank which will not help the redline situation. You will also now have piston travel issues maybe necessitating custom made pistons. (sometimes you can find a rod from another engine that has the matching smaller big end and as a bonus a shorter overall length) A slightly more expensive way is getting the crank welded up and reground for a slightly larger gain but by doing so they may be able to offset ground the crank with stock size journals and even radius them which puts the strength back in it. How big? I dont know. How much stroke can the crank case physically hold before clearance becomes an issue? I dont know but with todays engines, I'm guessing not very much at all. The best bet for stroking is a custom crank. Does anyone make one? I don't know. If you were to do a large overbore and a case limited stroke increase, I would guess you could get around 3.0 liters but you would have spent a lot of money to do it. Would it be worth it? For that kind of money, I'd put another 2.4 in the rear and have AWD like that Renault from a few years ago.
WoW!! i buy that[sm=smiley32.gif]. also, what Post had mentioned. I havent yet done any research on the subject, but pressure is on the right track!!
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If you were to do a large overbore and a case limited stroke increase, I would guess you could get around 3.0 liters but you would have spent a lot of money to do it. Would it be worth it? For that kind of money, I'd put another 2.4 in the rear and have AWD like that Renault from a few years ago.
If you were to do a large overbore and a case limited stroke increase, I would guess you could get around 3.0 liters but you would have spent a lot of money to do it. Would it be worth it? For that kind of money, I'd put another 2.4 in the rear and have AWD like that Renault from a few years ago.

Just think four wheel burnouts spinning like a top...and the ability to launch like a maniac.



. have to do some research