AMSOIL 10w-30 turbo approved.!!!!!!!

 

I used Mobil 1 0w-20 in the winter, obviously full syn. Before that was Mobil 1 FS 5w30. I just got my oil changed again on monday, and put some royal purple FS 5w30 in there.

BTW Elf makes "turbo approved" oils in the 0w20 range....they're made by Total. So its not always 40 and above thats turbo approved. Research it.

 

amsoil is made differantly than say mobil 1 they have a higher number of synthetic particals thats why is more expensive than all the other syntheics. and the elf oils are made the same way thats why the thinner oil can stand the high temps it has a greater resistance to heat breakdown. hmm i didnt even have to look that up that common knowlange so i dont know why you guys brought that up. but to the general public people dont have access to them most people go to autozone/kragen/shucks what ever and buy the mobil. so at 120k when you blowing oil past your rings and wondering why remember what that guy said long ago about using a thicker oil. or when you turbos have premature wear on them youll know why. but its funny why do every other turbo car on the planet recomend at least 10w40? that is strange...hmm i remeber my eclipse/2 starions/rx-7/ t-type all recomending at least 10w40 in any temp over 10 degrees. like i said run what you want want i dont know what im talking about.

 

so scince you all are convinced that the manual is correct on everything im going to point out some things that dodge is wroung about. 1 oil. we already got into that but you are all conviced they are right. 2. friction modifier for the lsd. now if you look at quaife web site they dont mention the need to use a friction modifer in there lsd units and if you have a 03 and you installed one once agian they dont mention the need to use it so why does 04-05 need it? makes no sense atf fluid is slick enough without a friction modifier, you usaly use that for thick oil like 80w90 stuff that doesnt flow smooth when cold 3. spark plugs they recomend changing the spark plugs every 30k correct? i dont have the manual in front of me but im pretty sure thats what they recomend. every one knows those spark plugs suck and you have to change them out way before 30k. im sure theres more but i cant think of off the top of my head im just saying just because its in the manual doesnt mean its correct. back to the oil like i stated earlier why would they recomend that oil is because of emmisions/gas milage 5w30 is not a performace minded oil . why else do i think that look at our thermostats 200 degrees? every knows optimal operating temp is at 175-180 for the best performace. why would they do that tho? hotter engines burn cleaner thats why. thinner oil has less friction there for less energy to move better for emmsion testing/ gas milage you wont see any nascar/f1/drag cars using some 5w20-30 in there cars. and honeslty why would you? you guys drive your cars harder than any of those guys they get to tear down there engines after there races we dont. so the point is just because you read it in the manual doesnt mean its right.

 

calm down princess... it'll be okay... breathe... in deep breath... out deep breath...

 

I bought a new '84 2.2L turbo Dodge 600 ES many moons ago. The oil requirement included 30W - but SF/CD (Recall that S is spark-ignition and C is compression-ignition - the second letter represents a temperature/wear index) minimum rated. Only 'fleet-duty' oil, like Pennzoil 30W that taxi cabs, etc, used was available - and only from jobbers. I reasoned that despite the cooling jacket on the turbo, a high temperature oil was needed. Since multi-viscosity oils do break down more quickly at elevated temperatures, and our winters are relatively mild, I elected to go with a fixed weight oil. Recall that the low temperature low viscosity only makes it easier to turn over the cold engine. Once started, the temperature rises rapidly. I put over 100k mi on that car before passing it on to my son - and buying an '88 Sundace 2.2L turbo 5sp. Next came my then-wife's '89 Voyager 2.5L turbo... and my '90 Shadow ES 2.5L turbo 5sp. All had 130k+ mi before they left our family, except the '90... it must've had 170-180k mi on it when I sold it last autumn - it's odometer never moving in it's last 7+ years.

Never a problem with the engines or turbo, although all got a new brass/copper radiator ~110k miles. The '84 did get a head gasket ~110k mi - and so did the Voyager - but it was after a freeze plug fell out. The two 5sp's never even needed a clutch. The oil I used - and I still have a can or two downstairs - was the same Pennzoil 30W - now called HD-30 and rated SL - and still available at Wally World. I never added a drop to any of my turbo MOPAR's between changes (3k mi). The key to long life, I feel, was the fixed viscosity AND allowing the engine to idle for 25-30 seconds before shutting it off after 'running' the turbo, a 'trick' required to prevent 'coking' (turning the carbon, etc, in the oil to 'coke'...) the oil in the turbo's bearings. The '90 Shadow had a MOPAR performance computer and +40% mass flow matched injectors for the last twelve years, so it was 'enjoyable' to drive.

My wife's '05 SRT-4 thus far has had whatever MOPAR oil, undoubtedly dino-derived, they include in their standard $20 'special' oil&filter change - like my '05 Liberty gets as well. If you race, or don't change your oil regularly, you need synthetic oils... otherwise, sacrifice some more dino-remnants to the crankcase.

Stainz05

 

princess? oh man you people i dont know why i even try to help you guys out its always a battle with you guys everytime. ima just leave it at that.

 

Dodge isn't the only one, many manufacturers are now recommending 5W30 and 10W30 for their turbocharged engines including Subaru who turbocharges just about everything they make.