Okay, first thing, where, if at all, does you vac line setup differe from stock?

As far as I can see, you should only need to cap the line that goes to the intake, not the throttle body.

Rule number 1. Any hissing back by the turbo should be first pinned on the turbo outlet pipe, that sucker can sound like a small vac line, I spent 45 minutes capping all those tiny lines back there before I tried the turbo outlet.

Rule number 2. Use a real compressor, NOT a 12v inflator pump. NONE of them will keep up, and you will never build pressure. Worst case, get a $20, 5 gallon air tank from Wal-Mart, fill it up at a gas station pump. Kind of a PITA, but way cheaper than a $200-$300 compressor.

Rule 3. TALK TO US!!!!!!!!!!! WE can only help with full and accurate info.

Info. Boost should build up to 20, don't try to go further, you'll never want that pressure with the stocker anyway, so don't bother testing higher.
It will leak back down, mostly through the throttle body, that's normal, should be about 1-2 psi a second, maybe slower.

DO NOT hold the gas pedal.

 

any body thought about bad gas or detenation caused by the added mods?

 

none of the mods listed should cause detonation unless there's an underlying problem. and if it was bad gas then either a knock sensor code would have been thrown, or he would be able to audibly hear knock from the motor. neither of these were mentioned, so i'm assuming that no knock was present.

there are a lot of reasons that the car could have run slower. just one outing isn't a good judge of a car. if he went again and the result was the same then i would be concerned that there's a real problem.

 

I THINK I'M GOING TO GO THE A DEALER AND TAKE A STOCK SRT FOR A RIDE TO COMPARE. MY ONLY FEAR IS, WHAT HAPPENS IF THE STOCKER RUNS LIKE A RAPED APE COMPARED TO MINE. THEN I'LL REALLY BE CONFUSED

 

No, don't do that. Troubleshoot, test, and then fix YOUR car. Driving another car, unless you have a calibrated butt, means nothing.

 

I MAY NOT HAVE A CALIBRATED BUTT, BUT ANYBODY CAN TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN TWO CARS. YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR CAR FEELS AND ACCELERATES LIKE, JUST LIKE YOU CAN TELL IF ANOTHER CAR IS QUICKER. I CAN DRIVE A METRO AND A VIPER AND CAN TELL THE DIFFERENCE. I DON'T NEED A DYNO TO PROVE IT.

 

I DIDN'T SEE THE PROBLEMS UNTIL I INSTALLED THE MOPAR EXHAUST, IS IT GETTING RID OF EXHAUST TOO QUICK NOW? ALSO, DOES ANYONE'S INTAKE, WHEN YOU'RE ON THE THROTTLE, SOUND LIKE IT'S SUCKING THE NOT, SUCKING THEN NOT, BUT REAL FAST? LIKE IT CAN'T KEEP UP. ALMOST LIKE WHEN A LITTLE KID IS CRYING HARD AND TRYING TO BREATH AND SHAKING. YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN?

 

read this

 

THE BOOST GAUGE ISN'T GOING INTO HIGH VACUUM THOUGH. IT'S SHOWING 15 PSI THE WHOLE TIME, SO I DON'T THINK THE ELBOW IS COLLAPSING. ANYWAY, I EXPERIENCE THE POWER LOSS WHEN I INSTALLED THE MOPAR EXHAUST. I STILL HAD THE STOCK AIR BOX ON THE CAR. IT DIDN'T JUST START WHEN I INSTALLED THE TYPHOON. ALSO WHEN I'M IN 4TH OR 5TH, SOMETIMES I'LL SPIKE TO 17-18 PSI AND THEN DROP TO 15. IS THAT NORMAL? ALL I HAVE DONE IS EXHAUST, INTAKE. THE SOUND THAT COMES FROM THE K&N IS ALMOST LIKE IT CAN'T GET ENOUGH AIR. IN REGARDS TO THE ARTICLE POSTED, IT SOUNDS LIKE THAT IS MY PROBLEM, BUT MY GAUGE ISN'T SHOWING ANY VACUUM. IT IS SHORT RAM RIGHT NOW. MAYBE TOO MUCH TURBULENT AIR UNDER THE HOOD??

 

take out the intake and see what happens.

did you check for an exhaust leak when you installed the cat-back? there's no reason that you should lose power with it unless it's not installed properly.