what goes in must go out...the best way?
#11
10-03-2005 | 03:19 AM
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From: RI
RE: what goes in must go out...the best way?
Just order the Mopar Borla 2.5" exhaust from Dodge if you plan on staying at Stage 1 for awhile. Unless you want a custom 3" made, which can be either crush bent (people hate this...and I still cant see why if you just want sound, someone explain this to me), or mandrel bent (preferred). Crush bent is smaller through the bends, Mandrel bent is the same by and through the bends of the exhaust.
#12
10-03-2005 | 02:35 PM
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From: Phila, PA
RE: what goes in must go out...the best way?
ORIGINAL: wordslayer
Alright,,,,,I've been thinking over and over about the exhaust that I should get and frankly, I am exhausted. Confused.
By the way, having a tuner car and not being a "tuner," is like being a life guard and not being able to swim.
Sooooo,,,,here is what my plans are. I have a completely stock 05. The only thing that has been done to it is lowering springs.
My long term goals are as follows:
Have sex with a beautiful woman someday.....wait,,,that's for a different thread.
Ugraded exhaust then to stage one. Stay at this setup until I someday have enough money for stage three. Stage three may come sooner if I have sex with the beautiful woman and she is filthy rich.
Anyhow, since I don't see myself having sex with a beautiful, rich woman anytime soon, I will be at stage one with the ugraded exhaust for a while. When I get to stage three, I, more than likely won't have the toys. That's because I am not like a real hot rodder. I just want someting pretty darned street fast.
That is the goal. Now,,,I have kind of ruled out going with the mopar exhaust now, because of some of the things that you all have told me. Soooooooooo,,,,,,,,,I am planning on, within the next couple of months, going to a muffler shop???and telling them that I want to order a __________________________________________________ ________________________________???
What is it that I need to order? I want it to sound really good when throttling up, but I don't want it to do REAL loud when just tooling around. What do I tell the muffler shop that I need to order and have put on?
Disclaimer:
Whatever you all advise me to get, I will NOT hold you accountable for if I hate it. That's the price of ignorance.
Alright,,,,,I've been thinking over and over about the exhaust that I should get and frankly, I am exhausted. Confused.
By the way, having a tuner car and not being a "tuner," is like being a life guard and not being able to swim.
Sooooo,,,,here is what my plans are. I have a completely stock 05. The only thing that has been done to it is lowering springs.
My long term goals are as follows:
Have sex with a beautiful woman someday.....wait,,,that's for a different thread.
Ugraded exhaust then to stage one. Stay at this setup until I someday have enough money for stage three. Stage three may come sooner if I have sex with the beautiful woman and she is filthy rich.
Anyhow, since I don't see myself having sex with a beautiful, rich woman anytime soon, I will be at stage one with the ugraded exhaust for a while. When I get to stage three, I, more than likely won't have the toys. That's because I am not like a real hot rodder. I just want someting pretty darned street fast.
That is the goal. Now,,,I have kind of ruled out going with the mopar exhaust now, because of some of the things that you all have told me. Soooooooooo,,,,,,,,,I am planning on, within the next couple of months, going to a muffler shop???and telling them that I want to order a __________________________________________________ ________________________________???
What is it that I need to order? I want it to sound really good when throttling up, but I don't want it to do REAL loud when just tooling around. What do I tell the muffler shop that I need to order and have put on?
Disclaimer:
Whatever you all advise me to get, I will NOT hold you accountable for if I hate it. That's the price of ignorance.
Read that thread - I think that there is no way you could go wrong with a setup like this. Props to PSI Chick on this one. I will be doing a similar setup soon, myself.
I think you will find all the ideas you need in there. She also has the experience of owning the maxxfab/borla setup previously, and I agree with her 100%. It is a great piece - but it is loud.
If you do s2 or s3, definitely get the toys - especially as a non tuner - you will be happy - they run fantastically, and the Dial A boost even lets you tone down the turbo for when you are just putting around and want to keep it slow. Especially with s2, where you needn't run true 100 octane, and a simple can of lucas booster or equivalent will allow your car to run like a rocket without dealing with tuning the car. It is extremely "plug and play".
One other way you might consider is leaving the stock exhaust and getting a needswings or similar downpipe with an e-cutout. You would sound pretty stock with it closed, and with the flip of a switch while you are in the cabin, scream like a banshee and crackle like a demon.
#14
10-03-2005 | 02:45 PM
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Phila, PA
RE: what goes in must go out...the best way?
ORIGINAL: LilSparkPlug
Just order the Mopar Borla 2.5" exhaust from Dodge if you plan on staying at Stage 1 for awhile. Unless you want a custom 3" made, which can be either crush bent (people hate this...and I still cant see why if you just want sound, someone explain this to me), or mandrel bent (preferred). Crush bent is smaller through the bends, Mandrel bent is the same by and through the bends of the exhaust.
Just order the Mopar Borla 2.5" exhaust from Dodge if you plan on staying at Stage 1 for awhile. Unless you want a custom 3" made, which can be either crush bent (people hate this...and I still cant see why if you just want sound, someone explain this to me), or mandrel bent (preferred). Crush bent is smaller through the bends, Mandrel bent is the same by and through the bends of the exhaust.
For sound, yes - crush can be okay, but even there the uneven exhaust flow and turbulance caused by the ripples in a crush bend can have negative effects. A smooth exhaust can sound "smoother", too, I bet.
#15
10-03-2005 | 02:49 PM
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From: Phila, PA
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#16
10-03-2005 | 04:50 PM
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Joined: May 2004
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From: NY
RE: what goes in must go out...the best way?
ORIGINAL: posthondaremoval
Well, most want performance, as well as sound. A crush bent pipe is kind of pointless, as the flow characteristics could end up losing you power over even a smaller diameter tube. Just seems like a waste of money, to me. Exhaust gas velocity plays a role in the performance of an engine.
For sound, yes - crush can be okay, but even there the uneven exhaust flow and turbulance caused by the ripples in a crush bend can have negative effects. A smooth exhaust can sound "smoother", too, I bet.
Well, most want performance, as well as sound. A crush bent pipe is kind of pointless, as the flow characteristics could end up losing you power over even a smaller diameter tube. Just seems like a waste of money, to me. Exhaust gas velocity plays a role in the performance of an engine.
For sound, yes - crush can be okay, but even there the uneven exhaust flow and turbulance caused by the ripples in a crush bend can have negative effects. A smooth exhaust can sound "smoother", too, I bet.
turbo cars should never have a crush bent exhaust on them. the issue comes in that most people don't know this, and most exhaust shops do not have a mandrel bender on hand. so they build crush bent systems not knowing any different. mandrel bends are very expensive, and it costs a lot more to do an exhaust this way, but it's well worth it. ask anyone who is familiar with turbo cars and they will tell you that they need a mandrel bent exhaust.
#17
10-05-2005 | 09:06 AM
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RE: what goes in must go out...the best way?
If i were you id do the following...
Go get some
--8.5mm plug wires (i dont think a f/i car should have less and there not that expensive)
--Drop in k&n filter (plenty of high hp cars running stock box with this filter and doing fine plus you can clean it as often as you like and dont worry the more you do it the easer it becomes)
--mopar/borla cat back (it sounds good its cheep and for what your going to be doing you wont notice a difference between it and a custom job)
--depending on your laws get rid of your cat (turbo cars "hate the *****"-LSP and run much better with out it. however it will cause more noise from your exhaust but its up to you if the trade off is worth it) and the reason i say depends on your state is some states like mine (cali) its illegal to not have one. and seing how your wrench skills are lacking you might have a hard time having a shop intall a cat-less dp and if you need to put your stocker back on thats more money out of your pocket.
The way i look at mopar stages.
S1-pointless unless you never plan on getting any other
S2- dont get toys unless you plan on using race gas all the time, dab is cool but not worth making s2 twice the price, once you learn how to drive with the added power it makes dab pointless.
S3- get it with toys..if your going to go all out then do it.
Go get some
--8.5mm plug wires (i dont think a f/i car should have less and there not that expensive)
--Drop in k&n filter (plenty of high hp cars running stock box with this filter and doing fine plus you can clean it as often as you like and dont worry the more you do it the easer it becomes)
--mopar/borla cat back (it sounds good its cheep and for what your going to be doing you wont notice a difference between it and a custom job)
--depending on your laws get rid of your cat (turbo cars "hate the *****"-LSP and run much better with out it. however it will cause more noise from your exhaust but its up to you if the trade off is worth it) and the reason i say depends on your state is some states like mine (cali) its illegal to not have one. and seing how your wrench skills are lacking you might have a hard time having a shop intall a cat-less dp and if you need to put your stocker back on thats more money out of your pocket.
The way i look at mopar stages.
S1-pointless unless you never plan on getting any other
S2- dont get toys unless you plan on using race gas all the time, dab is cool but not worth making s2 twice the price, once you learn how to drive with the added power it makes dab pointless.
S3- get it with toys..if your going to go all out then do it.
#18
10-05-2005 | 02:30 PM
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,740
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From: Phila, PA
RE: what goes in must go out...the best way?
ORIGINAL: Gump
If i were you id do the following...
Go get some
--8.5mm plug wires (i dont think a f/i car should have less and there not that expensive)
--Drop in k&n filter (plenty of high hp cars running stock box with this filter and doing fine plus you can clean it as often as you like and dont worry the more you do it the easer it becomes)
--mopar/borla cat back (it sounds good its cheep and for what your going to be doing you wont notice a difference between it and a custom job)
--depending on your laws get rid of your cat (turbo cars "hate the *****"-LSP and run much better with out it. however it will cause more noise from your exhaust but its up to you if the trade off is worth it) and the reason i say depends on your state is some states like mine (cali) its illegal to not have one. and seing how your wrench skills are lacking you might have a hard time having a shop intall a cat-less dp and if you need to put your stocker back on thats more money out of your pocket.
The way i look at mopar stages.
S1-pointless unless you never plan on getting any other
S2- dont get toys unless you plan on using race gas all the time, dab is cool but not worth making s2 twice the price, once you learn how to drive with the added power it makes dab pointless.
S3- get it with toys..if your going to go all out then do it.
If i were you id do the following...
Go get some
--8.5mm plug wires (i dont think a f/i car should have less and there not that expensive)
--Drop in k&n filter (plenty of high hp cars running stock box with this filter and doing fine plus you can clean it as often as you like and dont worry the more you do it the easer it becomes)
--mopar/borla cat back (it sounds good its cheep and for what your going to be doing you wont notice a difference between it and a custom job)
--depending on your laws get rid of your cat (turbo cars "hate the *****"-LSP and run much better with out it. however it will cause more noise from your exhaust but its up to you if the trade off is worth it) and the reason i say depends on your state is some states like mine (cali) its illegal to not have one. and seing how your wrench skills are lacking you might have a hard time having a shop intall a cat-less dp and if you need to put your stocker back on thats more money out of your pocket.
The way i look at mopar stages.
S1-pointless unless you never plan on getting any other
S2- dont get toys unless you plan on using race gas all the time, dab is cool but not worth making s2 twice the price, once you learn how to drive with the added power it makes dab pointless.
S3- get it with toys..if your going to go all out then do it.
S1- s1 is not pointless if you are going to be a while on 2 or 3 it'll keep the codes down, and give you a good gain for little money and effort. 329.00 for a part that you can sell for 250 a year later is fine for most.
S2 - You are, like most overlooking a big component of the package. The HOM button. It (with a 6$ bottle of lucas booster or equiv.-like I have said a million times but I'll say again) will make a huge difference over s2 without it. We're talking to the tune of .04-.05g's in acceleration at least, sometimes more. It also makes the throttle response much quicker and completely changes the personality of the car. It goes from a faster s2 to , much faster and more capable with HOM. It is a good thing for "non-tuners" because it involves nothing but the push of a button, and has any safeguard you could think of built in, like an automatic kick-out feature if pinging or knock is detected in the slightest.
#19
10-05-2005 | 05:02 PM
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Joined: May 2004
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From:
RE: what goes in must go out...the best way?
see post thats where it comes to personal preferance. I have never needed to use hom and i cant think of a time when i would, i still cant get traction at the track anyway and im not going to buy slicks/drs, street use i already eather kill what im racing or get killed.
so for the money he could have:
1) S2 w/toys or
2) S2 w/o toys, 8.5mm wires, drop in filter, mopar exhaust, some MM inserts and still have 200 left over incase he wanted a real intake or maybe a sts or even some pocket money to wine and dine all the ladies that like his fast car.
so for the money he could have:
1) S2 w/toys or
2) S2 w/o toys, 8.5mm wires, drop in filter, mopar exhaust, some MM inserts and still have 200 left over incase he wanted a real intake or maybe a sts or even some pocket money to wine and dine all the ladies that like his fast car.
#20
10-05-2005 | 05:51 PM
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,740
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From: Phila, PA
RE: what goes in must go out...the best way?
ORIGINAL: Gump
see post thats where it comes to personal preferance. I have never needed to use hom and i cant think of a time when i would, i still cant get traction at the track anyway and im not going to buy slicks/drs, street use i already eather kill what im racing or get killed.
so for the money he could have:
1) S2 w/toys or
2) S2 w/o toys, 8.5mm wires, drop in filter, mopar exhaust, some MM inserts and still have 200 left over incase he wanted a real intake or maybe a sts or even some pocket money to wine and dine all the ladies that like his fast car.
see post thats where it comes to personal preferance. I have never needed to use hom and i cant think of a time when i would, i still cant get traction at the track anyway and im not going to buy slicks/drs, street use i already eather kill what im racing or get killed.
so for the money he could have:
1) S2 w/toys or
2) S2 w/o toys, 8.5mm wires, drop in filter, mopar exhaust, some MM inserts and still have 200 left over incase he wanted a real intake or maybe a sts or even some pocket money to wine and dine all the ladies that like his fast car.
I have some traction issues too, but that is with or without the HOM button on. 225's help a lot, but still spin a bit either way.
If you are in PA give me a holler so you can feel the off/on/off difference, or if you know someone with toys, drive the car without it on, and then with it on, then without - if you haven't. You might change your mind. Even better - find someone with a fast car that is willing to race you a couple times to get a real idea of the difference on/off.
I predict that you will feel the following after:
A) without HOM - this is fast - I don't see why I need HOM.
B) HOM on - holy crap - maybe I should reconsider my position; that c5 that I just barely beat without hom will now eat my dust.
C) HOM back off after getting used to it (Trust me I know this one(every time they run out of booster)) What is wrong with the car - it feels sluggish. It takes a long time to get going, and the top end doesn't feel right. Where is the urgency?