You know I thought it totally unrelated, but my right side blinker intermittently strobes, works fine or not at all. I wonder if all these electronic issues are related. They did totally replace the wiring when they did the tps, but there was an unrelated short a few months ago.
Can a stage 2 computer go bad?

 

They didn't replace teh pump, that may be next. I have another tps and harness waiting at the dealer - hope that helps. I have been getting the rev again between shifts, so the second tps might be bad.

Noisier - definitely - like i said, the car is afterfiring like mad. I know this is supposed to happen but it has gotten quite excessive recently, the idle isn't quite as smooth.

No compression test done on my own, but my dealer said something about it holding at 16 then 18, (was that compression?)

 

My two cents;
I'm thinking something is causing a vacuum leak, but maybe not all the time. The BOV and the wastegate are vacuum controlled right? You also mentioned a engine rev between gears, that also could be caused by a vacuum leak. At idle do you hold steady vacuum? Or is the vacuum gauge fluttering, or even low? Could it even be a worn out wastegate or BOV diaphragm (diafram?), causing a crack / leak as they are used?

As to the engine control modules, they all go bad. They all act different when they go bad so its hard to link issues with the module. I've even read about someone here who had their engine wire harness replaced because it was shorting out in a strange spot. Something about hard corners and shorting out against the brake booster I think.

But none of this explains why the oil pressure is low, unless that to is still an electrical issue.

I feel you pain, I hope you can figure this one out soon.

 

No Compression should be somewhere near 200 if not a little more in all four cylinders.

Hmmm....maybe the entire engine wiring harness has **** the bed. I can't see how it could be a PCM, only because of the oil issue. And there are direct codes to what is wrong.

Good luck hunn, I feel for you in this situation.

 

wcs worst case senario, and my BOV also goes off randomly or sparattically around 10 vaccum my friend says its a boost leak im going to have the service dept check the lines for a leak when they replace my tps

 

AHHHH...don't I feel stupid. WCS = WORST CASE SCENARIO - mental note.

I also have a leak related problem(possibly) that Dodge hasn't been able to nail down with my brakes. Occasionally, since the car was new, I have a condition where the pedal goes soft and I have to pump it to get brake pressure back. If I turn off the car, where most cars hold a little residual vaccum until the brake is depressed, you can actually feel the pedal pushing back up as it depressurizes on its own. IF there was a leak somewhere in the brake system, and it got worse, could this all be related?

 

Jonny thats not a boost leak. When the TPS is that bad the BOV will go off on its own because the TPS has a bad signal (or short)and "releases" the throttle even when the throttle isnt released causing the BOV to go off.

Adam that would be the brake booster. And it wouldnt be a boost leak, it would be a Vac leak. I lost my brake booster once and thats no fun. Id have them check for Vac leaks, since thats what the booster runs off of. That happened to me on occasion until the dealer found one of the vac lines loose and tightened it right back up again.

And at idle, what are you pulling for Vac??? Just out of sheer curiosity. Make sure the compressor isnt on (heat/ac) and wait until the car is warm....whats it say?

And I would take the catch can off just to see what happens. Having an extended hose line on the PCV which does have pressure running through it, cant be a good thing, which is one of the reasons Dodge said NOT to use them. Maybe the situation will better itself, with the exception of the TPS. If it is a horrid vac leak....then yes it could be the cause of ALL (not tps) your problems.

 

You know I have been saying I have a bad brake booster since I bought the car. I lose brakes once a week at least and always have, but after 3 different dealers and one I do actually trust now, no one has duplicated it in the shop. I find it shocking, since we are talking about safety, but that is where it is at. I'll check the idle when I leave work today and post back.

 

Maybe obvious, maybe not, but from a troubleshooting standpoint is there a pattern of events that preceeds the loss of pedal (or follows it for that matter). I think it's safe to say at this point that it is not a typical problem by any use of the term (gee, ya think? [sm=confused06.gif] ),
and any seemingly minor events can turn out to be significant in getting to the bottom of things. I've got to agree with Crystal at this point, (Man, that little firecracker sure knows her stuff), the new info on the brake booster has me leaning more towards vacuum too. Unless the ABS system means that the PCM has input to the brakes as well, then I'm back on the fence, which is where I thought of this; Other posts on this forum have discussed that the wiring is the culprit of the TPS problems by shorting out the sensor. I have no idea what the wiring / pinout is, but I would think the possibility would exist that such a short could damage whatever is on the other end of the harness as well (PCM?). Who knows, it just seems that more than two seperate probs at the same time, though not impossible, is a longshot. I always try (sometimes unsuccessfully) to find a common denominator.

Good luck, it will be interesting to find out what it is.

Scott

 

I forgot to look, but I think it runs at -20 at idle. About -17 with the compresor on.
If I had a vac leak could I hit 17 psi?