crane cam
hi ive been eyeing these crane cams......does anyone have them installed?? opinions????
which would be good for my stage 1 car with borla exhaust?.. http://www.modernperformance.com/dcx..._for_srt.shtml
I realize i would have to get the springs and retainers
which would be good for my stage 1 car with borla exhaust?.. http://www.modernperformance.com/dcx..._for_srt.shtml
I realize i would have to get the springs and retainers
Vaughn,
Tell us alittle more about the make, model and application for which your looking to Cam your vehicle. The difference in application will make a substantial difference in the rise & duration factors for your new performance cam. If your intending on forced air.. NOS system or even the other stage 1 & 2 mods you intend, to advise you we'll need more facts. Cam, heads & lifters are considered an advanced modification and you'll definately want to be specific with the driving needs of the unit.
One last bit of advice. If your going to this expense and effort of a new cam, go ahead and purchase your roller rocker units. Your top end with work smoother with less strain on the cam lobes and rods. Finally when you do install.. do your homework and *Know* the perscibed break in procedure. I've seen too many friends flatten a new cam because they didn't give it enough break-in time.
Drop us a line and we'll help where we can. Be careful out there.
Tell us alittle more about the make, model and application for which your looking to Cam your vehicle. The difference in application will make a substantial difference in the rise & duration factors for your new performance cam. If your intending on forced air.. NOS system or even the other stage 1 & 2 mods you intend, to advise you we'll need more facts. Cam, heads & lifters are considered an advanced modification and you'll definately want to be specific with the driving needs of the unit.
One last bit of advice. If your going to this expense and effort of a new cam, go ahead and purchase your roller rocker units. Your top end with work smoother with less strain on the cam lobes and rods. Finally when you do install.. do your homework and *Know* the perscibed break in procedure. I've seen too many friends flatten a new cam because they didn't give it enough break-in time.
Drop us a line and we'll help where we can. Be careful out there.
hi i have a dodge 2005 srt-4.......i already have stage 1 installed and upgrade exhaust cat back........ i would like more low/ mid power......daily driver.....
i dont intend to mess with NOS..........i would never install myself.... thanks for othe advice
i dont intend to mess with NOS..........i would never install myself.... thanks for othe advice
OK Vaughn.. let me start by tryin not to make you angry.. My opinions are my own.. and others may say I'm all wet.. but here they are.. First off.. your a long way from being ready for a performance cam.
Mopar stage performance is a good outline to follow.. but you may get more bang for your buck by looking around and going aftermarket. Trick is to know how your modifications will affect your units boost & logic..
I didn't see if you had installed a cold air intake.. that may be part of your stage 1. but if not that would be my next step. Also I didn't notice if you've completed the front mounted intercooler, this would make sure your boost performance modification are stable.
For every day + the option of spankin your neighborhood wanna be.. upgrading your turbo would be my next option. stock boost up to 18PSI your unit is stable @ around 218-230, upgrade to 21 PSI you can expect to make 280 rhp & 300 lbs of torque.. thats huge pal ! The nice thing about this is you're makin this torque @ 3500-3800 RPM.. thats midrange for most folks.. depending on your drive habit.. likely most you're really wanting in the day to day.
If your intention is to get deeper regularly.. you'll want to consider boosts of 30 to 35 Operating efficiently @ 5,000 to 5,500, but then you get to fight wheel spin and all the rest. depends on what 330+ hp are worth to ya. In any case you're going to want to invest in the Boost controller and Waste gate actuator.. it'll help you control wheel spin and shift performance with RPM optimal from gear to gear.
I'm going to close this dissertation with a suggestion that you spend time, research your turno unit and performace curves. This should give you some real good ideas on what might be the most efficient way to boost performance without emptying your pocketbook. Just don't let anyone talk you into changing out your stock turbo unit. What you have is perfectly fine to build on.. you just want to upgrade it to match your drive charactaristics.
Drop me a line when you want more useless information.. Good luck.. most importantly.. have fun.
Mopar stage performance is a good outline to follow.. but you may get more bang for your buck by looking around and going aftermarket. Trick is to know how your modifications will affect your units boost & logic..
I didn't see if you had installed a cold air intake.. that may be part of your stage 1. but if not that would be my next step. Also I didn't notice if you've completed the front mounted intercooler, this would make sure your boost performance modification are stable.
For every day + the option of spankin your neighborhood wanna be.. upgrading your turbo would be my next option. stock boost up to 18PSI your unit is stable @ around 218-230, upgrade to 21 PSI you can expect to make 280 rhp & 300 lbs of torque.. thats huge pal ! The nice thing about this is you're makin this torque @ 3500-3800 RPM.. thats midrange for most folks.. depending on your drive habit.. likely most you're really wanting in the day to day.
If your intention is to get deeper regularly.. you'll want to consider boosts of 30 to 35 Operating efficiently @ 5,000 to 5,500, but then you get to fight wheel spin and all the rest. depends on what 330+ hp are worth to ya. In any case you're going to want to invest in the Boost controller and Waste gate actuator.. it'll help you control wheel spin and shift performance with RPM optimal from gear to gear.
I'm going to close this dissertation with a suggestion that you spend time, research your turno unit and performace curves. This should give you some real good ideas on what might be the most efficient way to boost performance without emptying your pocketbook. Just don't let anyone talk you into changing out your stock turbo unit. What you have is perfectly fine to build on.. you just want to upgrade it to match your drive charactaristics.
Drop me a line when you want more useless information.. Good luck.. most importantly.. have fun.
thanks for the info....stage 1 that i have is just a computer upgrade.........all i have for the intake is a drop in k and n filter.......the cams were just a idea they do offer different ones even one for stock motor supposed to give better mid range.......i really dont like the idea of changing out the waste gate....seems like alot of people have trouble geting it adjusted
ill just be happy with what i do have for now.after all ive only had the car barley 6 weeks lol
thanks again for all that you posted ...
ill just be happy with what i do have for now.after all ive only had the car barley 6 weeks lol
thanks again for all that you posted ...
I'd wait until you had a bit more done to the car.
Buying Crane 12s and not worrying about gears and stuff may free up a bit more power, but your limited with the stock turbos hp limit around 300hp.
Wait for a turbo upgrade then dive in and spend your money well...Crowers.
Buying Crane 12s and not worrying about gears and stuff may free up a bit more power, but your limited with the stock turbos hp limit around 300hp.
Wait for a turbo upgrade then dive in and spend your money well...Crowers.
i am not a fan of cower's cams. crane's are a much better choice imo/ime. they've been around forever and have always given good results. cowers are a hit or miss, they seem to work well, but seem to have very high rates of cracking on neons and to me that's just not a chance i want to take. cranes are a more reliable cam overall and give good results, which is why i went with those over the cowers. i was considering the cowers when they were first released, but after doing some research decided that it was too much of a chance that there would be problems. the track record just isn't there from what i found.
what cams you get really depends on what your long term goals are. cams are not a bolt on, and should really be one of the last items purchased in your upgrade path. you want to be sure that your cam matches your set up, not right now but after everything is said and done. 10's or 12's on a mostly stock car like yours is a good choice, but if you do decide to say upgrade the turbo in six months you'll be getting new cams again, and at $400 that's not something that you want to be buying all the time! so before you go and get cams, make sure you know where you want to go with the car, and what your long term goals are.
what cams you get really depends on what your long term goals are. cams are not a bolt on, and should really be one of the last items purchased in your upgrade path. you want to be sure that your cam matches your set up, not right now but after everything is said and done. 10's or 12's on a mostly stock car like yours is a good choice, but if you do decide to say upgrade the turbo in six months you'll be getting new cams again, and at $400 that's not something that you want to be buying all the time! so before you go and get cams, make sure you know where you want to go with the car, and what your long term goals are.


