When you guys are testing for boost leaks, do you need to have the key in the "on"position? Also, how long should say 20 lbs of boost take to bleed off?

 

i forget what forum i saw it on, but a guy built a 'cap' for his system. he used this and a tank of pressurized air. basically they just put the entire system under the same pressure it normally runs at and listened / watched for a drop in pressue.

 

Vacuum leaks are easy to test.

Grab a can of carb cleaner
Start the car up
Spray the vac lines down with the cleaner (stay away from your intake cone)
When you hear the RPMS go up, you've found it.

Theres a thing hooked up to an air compressor for boost leaks that pressurizes the system and you watch for where its leaking from.

 

I have tested for leaks before, i charge the system with compressed air, but i recently read that you should have the key in the on position. Does anyone else do this, or doesn't it matter? Also, the question was, if everything is capped off, how long should the gauge read positive boost if there are no leaks? If someone is watching the gauge and there are no leaks to be heard, should it take a couple seconds to bleed off?