First:
I found the following product to be helpful when cleaning aluminum rims. It took care of the basic road grime and brake dust that built up.
http://www.eagleone.com/pages/produc...=1120&cat=5006

I recommend Eagle One Nano-polish for rims (at least my rims **cough, cough Vaughn cough,cough*)

Second:
Raptor Performance shift light.
www. raptor performance .com
No signal adapter needed, easy to install, easy to setup... I'll post pic's/video's of mine if anyone is interested in seeing my setup. Let me know.

Two thumbs up on both products.

 

Oops......I should have read this post before asking questions on another. Anyway, I would be VERY interested in your pics/ videos of your shiftlight. I just looked at their website and it's about time someone came out with a decent shiftlight for our cars. So how you liking it?

 

hey Jeremy........thanks for the product tip.......did you use that just on the lip?.........i was scared of using aluminum polish because my lip was more of a satin finish...
And i figured the polish would make it too shiny.. and on the black it might make the finish come off??..being im not sure or rims have a clear coat

ive been keeping a coat of wax on mine and so far its working..........but if my lip gets alot of scratches ill try the aluminum polish

 

Wow... You both have the same rims I just ordered lol... Nice

Shift light looks good... My scan gauge has a shift light built in and it works great. Even though I usually shift when I want vs where I have the light set lol

 

hey you got good taste Andy... a707

 

Vaughn... check the rims... too shiny?? Never



Shifty-shift light...



This is during the "reset" phase (when you 1st start the car it cycles through the LED's). Don't worry, when you hit the RPM's, all the LED's come on. It also comes with the cover (mine is blue) and a black cover to "hide" the light at night.

As for the install... not a write up, but some tips:
1) I ran the wires through the same hole the boost gauge uses, then ran the wire behind the gauge cluster and over to the fuse box.
2) I tapped into the ignition wire (blue with white stripe - - same wire used for Stage 2 w/toys btw)... I would recommend a small inline fuse - - I still need to add one.
3) I grounded the wires on the metal support by the fuse box - - there are about 4 or screws you can use!
4) Having Stage 2 with toys - I already had a wiring harness routed "through the door"... so I used the lower body plug (below the door hinge) and ran the wiring up the same way the Toys wiring runs. I pulled it tight (but not too tight) to make sure it will not get caught in the hinge.
5) Under the hood there is only wire to hook up... the green wire from the light to the ignition coil. I routed the wire behind things and out of the way of just about everything. I also used radiator over flow tube (rubber hose) to go over the wire. You have to run the wire up by the ignition coil, which in my experience is hotter than the sun!!! since it sits next to the power-adder (turbo).
6) Now here's where I screwed up - - I should have taken the coil connection apart on the wiring harness side and installed the wire... but stupid me I spliced into the Black / Gray wire (this is the wire closest to the firewall when the connection is made!). I taped the crap out of it and even added small zip ties to make sure the tap didn't come unwrapped...

I can post a pic or two from under the hood if helpful.

A quick of the "start up" process... hope this works! you may have to sign up for Photobucket?? if this doesn't work let me know, I'll try and host it somewhere else!
http://s73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...iseNite019.flv

 

When you say to take the coil connection apart, do you mean to pull out the plug, stick the wire into the plug on the grey wire side, then reinstall the plug? I don't have a problem with splicing, but would mlike to avoid it if possible when it comes to under the hood heat.

 

Win,

If you do it right, you can actually take the connector apart that holds the wire and the metal tab which inserts into the coil itself. Basically you are taking that housing that holds the three wires apart and inserting the 4th (shift light) wire...

I have had nothing but bad luck when it comes to removing plastic anything, so I elected to splice a wire.

 

Same here. As a matter of fact, when I put in my turbo toys, I had to completely disassemble every one of the wiring harness plugs. Talk about a pain. I'll probably just splice it also. Looks SWEET btw.

 

Well, just ordered mine. What do you have the numbered cylinder switch set to?