Mopar stg1 springs......
Just got my lowering springs in and am going to do the install this weekend. I'm assuming that I'm going to need a spring compressor. Also will I be able to tell the front from rear when I get them disassembled? They came crunched into a box and I'm guessing that the more tightly coiled ones are the front, with the slightly bigger yet less coiled ones are the rear. Any tips for the install? I didn't see anything in the installs section. Anything special I should know to make things go a little smoother? I imagine the install will take me and a friend about 5 hours. Sound about right?
Its actually very simple, you don't NEED a spring compressor, but if you've never done springs before I'd recomend it. Heres how to go about doing it:
Rear:
1. Remove the wheel/tire
2. Remove the rear brake caliper (10mm nuts)
3. Remove the two bolts that hold the strut housing onto the spindle
4. Remove the endlink
5. Remove the three bolts inside the trunk (underneath all the matting)
6. Remove the Assembly
7. Compress the spring, and using a 21mm (air gun preffered) socket take off the top nut, but have your friend hold the top hat because it will spin on you.
8. Take off the tophat and bearing
9. Take off the Spring
10. Put it all back together
Fronts:
1. Take off the wheel/tire
2. Take off the ground strap, little plastic cap in the fender well just pull that out and the ground wire comes out after it.
3. Take off the two bolts that hold the strut onto the knuckle
4. Take off the three 13mm bolts in the engine bay
5. Repeat Steps 6-10 from above.
Yes the looser coiled springs go in the rear. You'll be able to tell which way they go once you get the assembly out of the car, just make sure you put them in the same way they came out (they'll be indentations where they belong, its very easy. In the front you may need to remove the dust boot before you can get the spring off the strut...just an fyi.
Rear:
1. Remove the wheel/tire
2. Remove the rear brake caliper (10mm nuts)
3. Remove the two bolts that hold the strut housing onto the spindle
4. Remove the endlink
5. Remove the three bolts inside the trunk (underneath all the matting)
6. Remove the Assembly
7. Compress the spring, and using a 21mm (air gun preffered) socket take off the top nut, but have your friend hold the top hat because it will spin on you.
8. Take off the tophat and bearing
9. Take off the Spring
10. Put it all back together
Fronts:
1. Take off the wheel/tire
2. Take off the ground strap, little plastic cap in the fender well just pull that out and the ground wire comes out after it.
3. Take off the two bolts that hold the strut onto the knuckle
4. Take off the three 13mm bolts in the engine bay
5. Repeat Steps 6-10 from above.
Yes the looser coiled springs go in the rear. You'll be able to tell which way they go once you get the assembly out of the car, just make sure you put them in the same way they came out (they'll be indentations where they belong, its very easy. In the front you may need to remove the dust boot before you can get the spring off the strut...just an fyi.
I was going to go through my job, but even with my employee discount Modern Performance had them cheaper AND in stock. I ordered on Monday and had them on Wed. $220.96 or something like that. I'm going to attempt to post pics, but I JUST got a digital camera (the wife likes 35mm, go figure....) and it will be my first try at posting pics. As it is I'm not even sure where to start. I'll get it I'm sure. My tires should be here tomorrow, can't wait
do the stg 1 springs from mopar get rid of the uneven lift from front to rear? that arch is annoying with the front end sitting lower.
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No. It's not quite as bad as stock but the rear of the car is still airborn. Handles ALOT better trough the twisties though. My friend who helped me said the car will actually "settle" a little lower overnight and lower a hair more, or at least it's been that way for the other 20 something set of lowering springs he's installed. Only took us about 2 1/2 hours to do them. He said it was one of the easiest cars he's ever lowered. I thought it was a breeze also. Now if my last two tires will just get here.
Well, they didn't "settle" and the rear is still airborn, but it is an improvement over stock. For the price, effort, and the far better handling characteristics (wonder if lowering will help launching at the track...) I'd say it was worth it. Still waiting on 2 tires...........
My car was 1/4" lower all around after getting an alignment the day after install. The rear could be lower regardless though.
Not to hijack your thread, but a pic to show the rake. It looks more pronounced in pics, but is a lot less noticable in person. The car is pretty low, though obviouslly this is about the most modest drop there is.
Not to hijack your thread, but a pic to show the rake. It looks more pronounced in pics, but is a lot less noticable in person. The car is pretty low, though obviouslly this is about the most modest drop there is.




