Stage 1, 62 mm throttle body
I got the Stage 1 computer installed today and my car runs great again, finally. The P2074 code that was coming up after I installed the MpX 62 mm throttle body has not come back ( fingers crossed ). I've bitched and cried about this thing enough and you all have given me advice, i thought I owed it to you to tell you the cars run great now.
Nice to hear. Weird how some relatively minor mods (your TB) give the stock ECU fits, while other extensive mods (AGP Stage 4 kit) don't bother it.
Or maybe you just got a picky stock ECU.
Or maybe you just got a picky stock ECU.
Actually, I don't think it is faster, it just isn't setting the codes. It seems slower revving through the gears, strong but not as stong as before from my seat of the pants dyno. I'm just glad right now to be able to drive it without setting the code, I sure ain't gonna complain.
It is still strong enough to spin the tires in 2nd gear and grab 3rd with a definite torque steer pull. It just seems slower revving,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I'll enjoy the ride for a few weeks before worrying about it. I've probably only driven 50 miles on it so maybe the ecu is still learning the setup.
It is still strong enough to spin the tires in 2nd gear and grab 3rd with a definite torque steer pull. It just seems slower revving,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I'll enjoy the ride for a few weeks before worrying about it. I've probably only driven 50 miles on it so maybe the ecu is still learning the setup.
Revving slower plus your other symptoms sounds like it might be a plugged cat. These cars LOVE to destroy cats because of how rich they run under boost.
Mine slowly grenaded over a period of time, resulting in a slower and slower car, but yet down low still had enought torque to break the tires loose, it just fell off real bad in the upper RPM's. Ultimately it wouldn't even rev past 5500 rpm and was getting out accelerated by diesel mercedes...
It's kind of a pain to get the down-pipe with the cat off, but if you unbolt and move the power steering cooler out of the way, you'll be surprised at how much room you have to access those bolts, alot better than using a 2 ft long extension. It should take you about 1/2 hour to an hour to remove it and take a look. If you can get away with it you may even want to take it for a quick drive without it (just tie up the exhaust so that it doesn't hang down.
When I took mine off I instantly knew it was bad, sounded like one of those "rain sticks". I used a high-lift jack handle and busted out the rest of mine (just be sure to remove the O2 sensor first) and my problem was solved.
Mine slowly grenaded over a period of time, resulting in a slower and slower car, but yet down low still had enought torque to break the tires loose, it just fell off real bad in the upper RPM's. Ultimately it wouldn't even rev past 5500 rpm and was getting out accelerated by diesel mercedes...
It's kind of a pain to get the down-pipe with the cat off, but if you unbolt and move the power steering cooler out of the way, you'll be surprised at how much room you have to access those bolts, alot better than using a 2 ft long extension. It should take you about 1/2 hour to an hour to remove it and take a look. If you can get away with it you may even want to take it for a quick drive without it (just tie up the exhaust so that it doesn't hang down.
When I took mine off I instantly knew it was bad, sounded like one of those "rain sticks". I used a high-lift jack handle and busted out the rest of mine (just be sure to remove the O2 sensor first) and my problem was solved.


