mopar stage 2
was wouduring is it better to upgrade with a stage 2 with or with out toys....? and also should you wait for a sertin amount of miles untill you do any upgrades....? last question around how much hp will you push after only putting in a stage 2 turbo w/ or w/o toys.....??
me personally i would go without turbo toys. You don't need to add more weight with a extra tank that has 110 octane and that water spray is nothing. you are better going the extra mile and get NO2 sprayer. but, that is my opinion on that.
ORIGINAL: 2K4SRT_4
me personally i would go without turbo toys. You don't need to add more weight with a extra tank that has 110 octane and that water spray is nothing. you are better going the extra mile and get NO2 sprayer. but, that is my opinion on that.
me personally i would go without turbo toys. You don't need to add more weight with a extra tank that has 110 octane and that water spray is nothing. you are better going the extra mile and get NO2 sprayer. but, that is my opinion on that.
1.) You don't use an extra tank for "110 octane".
2.) The intercooler sprayer does help (5HP?).
You also get the Dial-a-boost feature with the toys.
Have a minimum of 300 miles according to the owners manual on your car before "racing" it with a Stage 2.....2000 miles would probably be better, more miles would probably add to that. Use Mobile 1 synthetic oil or Amsoil synthetic.
I do have S2, and no, you don't need an extra tank, just put the racegas in your regular tank, run the car short while (10 miles, maybe?), and go. Or add Torco Race Fuel Accelorator (only additive I know of that actually works, but the price DOES reflect that) OR get really tricky, like I plan to, and use water injection, which will require a separate tank, but will let you run racegas mode all day for the cost of water.
Basically, as far as the sprayer, I agree that the nitrous (I frown on CO2 becuase accidental ingestion can cuase power loss) does do a better job. But part of the cost of the toys is that that sprayer is not just a "hit the button and it sprays" deal. It's way more complex than that. In auto mode, the computer actually predicts through algoritms that temps are headed to where a spray would help, and sprays BEFORE you need it, so it intercepts the high temps before they happen. So it's not a "Damn, I'm heatsoaked, spray" kinda thing.
Also, those sprayers were optimized in a wind tunnel to work best under actual running conditions.
Lastly, read up on the Dial-A_Boost, agian, it's WAY more complex than most boost controllers, except for the real top end units costing in the 4-500 range.
Boils down how much you want to (or are able to) tinker and fool around to tweak your car. Like it and are able to do it? And have some extra to put into the tools needed like the above mentioned boost controllers, NX sprayers, etc? go for no toys. DO NOT, however, be fooled into thinking you can get the base kit and buy after market stuff that will
A) be cheaper
B) be faster
than with toys. Most likely not going to happen that way.
On the other hand, if you want to bolt on and drive, no tuning required, and can afford it, go toys.
Basically, as far as the sprayer, I agree that the nitrous (I frown on CO2 becuase accidental ingestion can cuase power loss) does do a better job. But part of the cost of the toys is that that sprayer is not just a "hit the button and it sprays" deal. It's way more complex than that. In auto mode, the computer actually predicts through algoritms that temps are headed to where a spray would help, and sprays BEFORE you need it, so it intercepts the high temps before they happen. So it's not a "Damn, I'm heatsoaked, spray" kinda thing.
Also, those sprayers were optimized in a wind tunnel to work best under actual running conditions.
Lastly, read up on the Dial-A_Boost, agian, it's WAY more complex than most boost controllers, except for the real top end units costing in the 4-500 range.
Boils down how much you want to (or are able to) tinker and fool around to tweak your car. Like it and are able to do it? And have some extra to put into the tools needed like the above mentioned boost controllers, NX sprayers, etc? go for no toys. DO NOT, however, be fooled into thinking you can get the base kit and buy after market stuff that will
A) be cheaper
B) be faster
than with toys. Most likely not going to happen that way.
On the other hand, if you want to bolt on and drive, no tuning required, and can afford it, go toys.
I would, and hopefully will, be going with Stage 2 w/toys. As far as how much power you will have after, they are listed as follows:
SRT-4 Stage 2 Turbo Upgrade Kit without Turbo Toys (P5007863)
260 hp @ 5200 rpm and 280 ft-lbs of torque @ 3600-4400 rpm
SRT-4 Stage 2 Turbo Upgrade Kit with Turbo Toys (P5007967)
265 hp @ 5200 rpm and 280 ft-lbs of torque @ 3600-4800 rpm
High Octane Mode - 280 hp @ 5200 rpm and 300 ft-lbs of torque @ 3600-4400 rpm
*Optional Mopar Performance Cat-back exhaust system (P4510461) required to achieve performance ratings.
SRT-4 Stage 2 Turbo Upgrade Kit without Turbo Toys (P5007863)
260 hp @ 5200 rpm and 280 ft-lbs of torque @ 3600-4400 rpm
SRT-4 Stage 2 Turbo Upgrade Kit with Turbo Toys (P5007967)
265 hp @ 5200 rpm and 280 ft-lbs of torque @ 3600-4800 rpm
High Octane Mode - 280 hp @ 5200 rpm and 300 ft-lbs of torque @ 3600-4400 rpm
*Optional Mopar Performance Cat-back exhaust system (P4510461) required to achieve performance ratings.




