I recently did a full tune up on my Power Wagon and she wont start. New plugs, rotor, points, cap, & condeser. New battery too. Gapped properly. I have spark to the plugs. Have given a shot of ether and it wont even cough. Its a 6 volt system. Any suggestions are welcomed and appreciated. I'm at a loss.

 

Judging from 6volt system, this is a real 55 powerwagon? Cool! Was the engine running before you did the tune-up?
Since I was only born in 55 tell me what engine you have.
I know you said you have spark at the plugs but check for spark at the coil, is it bright blue and will it jump about a 1/2" space?
Parts all the proper spec and make sure any wires that attach to the points are not shorting out. Also, is there a short ground wire that goes from the plate in the distributor to ground. I'm just brainstorming.

 

HMMM, Positive Ground, no? did you set the Polearity right?

 

Hello and thanks for your reply, The engine is a flat-head 6. Size? I honestly forget at this point. I have owned this truck for only 5 years and have done some restoration to make it road worthy but mostly use it on my farm for hauling wood and plowing and land clearing etc.. It has a dump body that works great when running. It was running last spring/early summer. When I shut her down last she did not readily restart. I replaced the coil 2 yrs ago and tested it on a meter just the other day. It shows that it is working fine. All parts are identical to those I have used for tune-ups in the past. The only real work the truck did last year was snow plowing - hence not a lot of banging around. I have done several tune-ups on it in the past, and own an older tractor, so I have reasonable experience with the older machines - but obviously not enough 'cause I can't figure out this one.

Good call on the coil issue though but as stated it tested fine. Polarity too (I'm not sure if this will reply to both people but hope it does.)

I'm thinking of adjusting the timing and see what happens. Again, any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Yes, all wires and parts are connected properly, but good idea. I appreciate it.

 

Not sure how the timing is set up on that but I wonder if you have a bad timing chain/gears?
Classic problem is when the chain is ready to slip, it will usually do that when you try to start the engine when there is much more mechanical load on the engine parts.

 

I'm way out of my league here,(see profile). burt i have a 77 ram charger that wouldnt star one day. Plugs, wires,cylinoide(nice spelling huh?) well i grounded the battery to the BODY of the truck also, and it starts just fine. Does this sound funny to anyone else? He3y the truck runs. Gonna post some pics. its a hunck of **** and i love it. Its a special edition...top comes off to the windshield...can anyone tewll me how many of these were made?

 

Welcome, don't need to call your ride a hunk of stuff. They are good trucks. I ordered a brand new one with a 440 and drove it for 200K before selling it. There should be a ground that goes from the battery to the body and it's usually on the side of the radiator support. Also running a ground from the back of the engine to the firewall is also a must have, it helps complete the circuit throughout the truck. Not sure of the production figures. [sm=nxsmile.gif]

 

I'd suggest that you check the ground wire from the motor to cab/frame. I'd remove it and wirebrush it or use a little emery cloth to get a good ground, then a scoush of 'dialectric grease' that can be had from auto parts stores, then re-mount. Next I'd run a wire w/aligator clips to the + coil terminal and to the battery + terminal and crank and see if it starts. If it does start, remove the jumper wire or you might fry your coil.... Takes a while, but can happen without a Ballast Resistor, so only do it for a couple minuates at the most. THIS will give you a posative routing of current and if the coil is good and the points are adjusted right, it should run. Otherwise I'd be looking for frayed wires coming out of the distributor or mabe a jumped timing chain or such 'evident' problems. These were super simple motors and used on a plethora of units like forklifts, generators and industrial applications. Remember that your ignition switch gives full voltage for start while cranking, then reduces usually through a ballast resister for a lower voltage to the coil when running and yor have it running. As Stormer said, you might need to polarize the generator ( simple to do), but as for starting it wouldnt make any difference, it just wouldn't charge without the proper polarity...... but the ignition would be charged and start none the less simply by the current from the battery.

 

They were geared rather than a timing chain......but don't take that as gospel. Theres a company for restoration parts for alot of the old Dodge/Plymouth/Desoto/Fargo trucks and cars called "Roberts" You;ll have to do a web search for that, as I don't have an address handy and I may be incorrect on the Chain/Gears part, but if I remember correctly, they were, or I thought they were, gears.