If the seals blew out, you can put new seals on it.
If the bore is rusted, then the piston may seize and cause you more problems later, if you can't get in there to hone it.

If the brake linings have brake fluid on them, they need to be replaced.

 

I put the new cylinder on but I got the brakes all apart because someone who is working with me lied and said they know how to put them back so I'm trying to figure it out now

 

Remove the opposite side wheel and brake drum so you can see how it is supposed to be assembled.

 

It isn't worth fixing the cylinders that are on there, when replacements are so cheap.

If the line doesn't wanna come off, just cut it, and then replace it.

 

I just did this on our Dodge. Replace the steel lines from the rubber hose to the wheel cylinders. Definitely use the bigger 1 1/16" wheel cylinders. I think the part #W79767 Dorman. Amazing how much better it stops. You can replace the rubber hose, brake shoes, hardware, and drums later, when you have the money. I think it was only $20-30. I anti-seize the threads on the lines and bleeder screws.


I didn't take a picture of the Dodge, but here's a Chevy. They're almost identical. Hope it helps.

 

Here's the passenger side of a 99. The adjuster and one of the springs are different than my 2000 so hopefully they were the same in 96.



I have pictures of the driver side too if you need them.

 

That looks like what is in my 95.

 

On 1500's use;

Rear cyl from RAM 2500HD/3500 (28mmØ) - AC Delco 18E112 (same both sides).
or if you need more GM3500 (30mmØ) - NAPA #37337.
The shoes and drums are 1500.
I replaced all the springs, clips, adjusters, etc... they're cheap.

Front calipers from RAM 2500LD (80mmØ) - AC Delco 18FR741 & 18FR742 (L&R).
I used the 2500 pads, but the rotors are 1500.

As reference, stock 1500 has 75mmØ front and 24mmØ rear.

 

Ditto to what Hey You said about that rear brake line rusting out and breaking. Mine did right where the L shaped bracket that holds the joint from the hard line to the soft line brake line. Of course, it's not a simple hard line replacement since it runs up along the fuel tank towards the front.

And yeah it's not a good feeling to pump that brake pedal to get a monster truck to stop.

 

If you have no obvious leaks, a blown master cyl seal will leak into the booster.
The brake fluid will perish the diaphragm if not cleaned out within a reasonable time.