I went at it with the "shotgun effect" in mind. I had those both cracked open after trying to force-feed in some water, all the while I was parked uphill, and with ramps, with the radiator cap removed. Oh, yeah, with a pinhole drilled in my thermostat. Work? Yeah.

 

Shew sounds like you had a rough time like I am having. I wish I drilled my stat. I'm not going back in again. Last time I stripped a thread.. not fun. Thanks for the info. It helps me a ton.
I'll let everyone know my results.

 

You're not alone there... it's on my list also.

Additionally, I plan on doing a bypass valve for the heater core also, so I can keep as much heat out of the cab as possible in summer.

For the bleed, I plan on having a T (facing up) with a radiator drain **** in it.

Put a piece of hose on the tip to control the direction of the air/water discharged (save from getting a face full).

 

I'd like to know why stant and others don't put air bleeds on the thermostats for small block mopar? They do on others. I see tons of the same posts about air in the cooling system. Also can someone put a post up in the how to section on remedying this? It may help with the many posts on the subject. Simple drill a hole in the body of the t stat. It will let out most of the air when filling and any remaining will find it's way out in the next few hot-cool sessions. I do this on ALL my t stats and never had a problem with air stuck in the cooing system. I use a 3/16 bit but you could go up to 1/4.





No air trapped in the cooling system! :grin

 

^Make sure to remove all burs though! Don't want them running around your cooling system.
(For those that need/want to do this)

 

You don't have to bypass it. Just stop the flow altogether.

Don't bother with hardware store mock ups. Get a valve made specifically for the purpose. You can find heater valves all over the junkyards. I used one from a Lexus.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...e-install.html

 

I got antsy last night and installed the flush T on the return hose. It was very hard to get the old hose off and the new hose on the heater core line.
Word of advice, those things are not made of hard metal. I squeeze the line. I tried to put it back to a circle the best I could and slid the heater hose on. I couldn't get it all the way on. Maybe a half in short of firewall.

I didn't use the present hose. I just used a standard 5/8 heater hose.

Now, any tips on how to use this to bleed it? I burped some last night but I know I can do better. Should I bleed it with engine cold or running or bother, How far should i crack it? How much coolant should i let out? Any advice would be great!

 

Engine stone cold, radiator cap off, engine running at idle.

Crack open the cap a little at a time, until you hear something escaping, or, you see coolant coming out. Tighten the cap.

And that should be it for the heater core.....

 

Looking to do this same thing on my 94. bought a bleed unit off of the good ol interwebs. My heat is oknot hot, and when I'm cruising down the highway, my temp moves up to the 220-230 area, about halfway to 260. If I give her the beans when going up a hill she'll go back down to about 200, and then slowly moves back up. If I accelerate on an on ramp it brings her down too. Cruising, no matter what speed sits at 220-230. Ides at 200. So hoping to fix that. Probably time for a new water pump soon aswell.

 

Water pump, and, probably fan clutch as well. Either that, or go to E-Fans....